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Once somebody alters a vehicle on their own its the owners fault, even if safety is compromised.The manufacture or side shop fabricator won't be liable for anything. But on the safe side paper trail ( receipts) does cover your ass. Every part I fabricate I clearly state as is No warranty + for strictly off road use only wit receipt and I keep a digital signed copy w/ customers state ID :) backing it up.

Matt cannot get sued over fabricated parts like the crash bar. No attorney would take a case over general fabricated part unless the fabricator is fabricating ample amount of parts for huge company with a million dollar insurance policy. Then an attorney would become interested due to the plaintiff having a million dollar insurance policy from which to sue from. Also if a customer tries to sue in small claims court it would be a waste of the customers + judge time due to the fact that the customer was alert and willingly purchase / install the part for their vehicle on their own terms, ruling out their own safety.

Bottom line if you crash WITH ANY AFTERMARKET lets say set of TEIN dampers. You would be wasting your time trying to sue , but of course this is America and wasting your own time and money is always welcome. Instead of the customer being a dick, he or she should just move on due to any aftermarket parts or a set of crash bars deeming the vehicle -- Not DOT / street legal anymore.
 

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You cannot do that with out software. If you attempt to do it manually you better prepare replace the HP fuel pump in the front of the engine compartment (small fuel pump by the coolant line onto of the cylinder head). Also once you start trimming and playing around with fuel calibration the vehicle will run lean and you risk compromising both catalysts and both o2 sensors.
another false statement...I will hook up my uprev software, my snap-op verus, and go plug it on my dealerships consult 3 and show you it works fine with no issues. On test cars and cars with removed 2nd o2 sensors I (along with millions of other people) do this ALL THE TIME. The high pressure fuel pump works on pulses to determine FUEL PRESSURE, no injector pulse width. It takes a load calculation and does some math to determine what pulse width is needed to maintain a set fuel pressure at a set load at a set rpm. It does not even consider long term fuel trims.

IF what you just said were true: Every time someones battery died it would risk damaging the car. Because that basically what you are doing when you do a fuel trim reset with the battery, you making the ECU think there is NO VOLTAGE. Long term fuel trims are what determine base fuel compensation. Every time the ECU is re-flashed (at the dealer or otherwise), every time the battery dies or is removed, every time you do a throttle re-learn, IT GETS RESET. I tell people to look at the trip A and trip B reading to see if they did it right, if that resets, then your long term fuel trims have reset.

ALSO, the HPFP is mechanical in nature, even if it is unplugged it just defaults to neutral, but it still pumps! it just does not have the electronic component live to tell it to actually make pressure. Hell, these cars will IDLE with the pump unplugged. Torry and I spent 48 straight hours (not even being sarcastic) trying to find a way to pulse modulate the HPFP with a 5v pulse, but you cant, but his car still IDLED.

The only time the car will run lean is: If you have an air leak AFTER the MAF, your MAP sensor is not reading right, your Wideband sensor is DEAD, your downstream sensor is sending false readings, or if your bypassing the over-boost safety and over-boosting the car with a MBC or something similar, but even in ALL of these scenarios, RESETTING THE LONG TERM FUEL TRIMS DOES NOT CAUSE IT TO HAPPEN. And, even if one of these scenarios happens, withing one drive cycle you will get a CEL for fuel TRIMS being out of spec!

For the love of all things automotive, STOP giving false information to everyone. Read the actual FSM, and learn more about how the ECU, IDPM, and BCM actually work and what will actually damage it. I am willing to bet your one of those people who believes that if you do any welding on a car with the Battery and ECU still plugged in you will blow up the ECU. lol
 

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Lets see.... back in 07 when I got my Z, I took it to the dealer for the transmission grinding when shifting when cold and only cold. Nissan tech fired the car up, let it warm up, then took it around the block. Came back and said it doesnt grind. I was like ya, did you miss the part where I said it only did it when cold? Took 5 visits and 3 different Nissan techs before I got a new trans.

In 08, with my Z, the oil pressure started to drop to 0 psi at idle, only when warm. Dropped it off and got a call a hour later that said everything was fine. I picked the car up knowing it wasnt fine. So once I got it back, I put a manual gauge on it and took it back to the dealer to show them that the manual gauge and inside gauge read the same. Took the car for a day and said it was fine and that the gauge I put on was garbage. I finally had to go there, have them plug in their gauge and let the car idle until it hit 0 oil pressure. I asked the tech if he knew that the hotter oil gets, the less pressure you get. He was clueless.

In 09, same Z, took it to the dealer cause a wheel bearing failed. For once they replaced it the first time. 5000 miles later it fails again. I pulled the wheel off to look at it myself and the Nissan tech didnt put the cotter pin back in. Instead, he used black RTV thinking it would hold the nut tight.....

I can go on about my Jukes and Nissan techs but I think you get the point.

So what am I getting at here? Bulldog is a Nissan tech. So what he is saying does not surprise me one bit based on my experience with other Nissan techs.
 

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So what am I getting at here? Bulldog is a Nissan tech. So what he is saying does not surprise me one bit based on my experience with other Nissan techs.
Dont group all nissan techs in the same basket, it like any repair center. Some techs are good and know their stuff, then there are those who learned everything they know off a forum and refuse to admit when they have the wrong information. I worked with both at the dealership I was at, look at the number of come backs a tech has for diagnostics and you can see how good they really are.
 

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Dont group all nissan techs in the same basket, it like any repair center. Some techs are good and know their stuff, then there are those who learned everything they know off a forum and refuse to admit when they have the wrong information. I worked with both at the dealership I was at, look at the number of come backs a tech has for diagnostics and you can see how good they really are.
I do agree with you. But those good techs are far and few between. I have worked at a dealership before (Chevy) and what some of the techs did just blew my mind. I dont know how they got away with some of the stuff they did. Could have been cause they didnt know better or more likely, cause they were flat rate paid and just wanted the vehicle out.

The place I am at now is much better. People here understand that if you do one little thing wrong, well, there goes a $50k engine. That happens and you are most likely out of a job.
 

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DOES THIS MEAN that I can do a fuel reset by disconnecting the neg cable on the battery, pumping the brake pedal and then reconnecting the battery without doing horrendous damage to the electrical system? I know I can reset everything on my '04 VW R32 by disconnecting both bat terminals and touching the two cables together with no bad results but I don't want to spoil my Juke.
 

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DOES THIS MEAN that I can do a fuel reset by disconnecting the neg cable on the battery, pumping the brake pedal and then reconnecting the battery without doing horrendous damage to the electrical system? I know I can reset everything on my '04 VW R32 by disconnecting both bat terminals and touching the two cables together with no bad results but I don't want to spoil my Juke.
You can do a fuel trim reset the same way you did it on VW. Ignore everything this bulldog guy is saying.
 

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So let me ask Bulldog why he says we will destroy sensors, require ECU reprogramming, have to replace sensors, screw up our car, etc. just by disconnecting the battery... when the FSM clearly states in many of the repair procedures to disconnect the battery first before performing said procedure, but no where does it say now you have to go replace these sensors you just blew up...? Disconnecting the battery is like pre "mechanics 101" class material that anyone that's even remotely interested in maintaining cars learns first.
 

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First of all I never stated that disconnecting the battery terminal would jeopardize the vehicle. Second obd2 systems do loose memory when the terminals are unplug with out an obd2 saver device.
No worries
 

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1) I'm not your "bro" so stop with the fake cool prick attitude.
2) You contradict yourself and provide no proof other than to say "well this is what I do". That's great what you do. I want proof that is what needs to be done, and you have not provided proof of your statements.
3) You boast about your car collection, that's cool and all, but again you have failed to provide proof. I want to see these cars you claim to own.
4) You've claimed to work at a dealership, or at least work on Nissans. When did Nissan release Mac versions of their software?
5) Speaking of being a "tech" let's see your ASE certification. I'll openly admit I don't have any ASE certification.
6) This "OBD2 Data" you speak of is a number of things such as pending/stored diagnostic codes, associated freeze frame data, fuel trims and other adjusted engine parameters that get the engine to run within the defined range. Sure there may be more, but that's most of it and it's stored in RAM and just like a computer is designed to be lost when constant power is removed.
7) So when a dealership replaces a battery, aren't they disconnecting the battery? What's different between them disconnecting it or me disconnecting it?

You should start checking yourself here. You're losing a lot of credit with the online community and you definitely have lost not just credit but also respect from other more experienced mechanics that frequent these forums.

188454

warning shot fired.
 

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Ahh I’m a prick, ok gotcha. loosing credit ok,

Are you the same individual from the last DIY question? I simply replied to a question that was stated on an online forum that’s public. Kid I been working on cars for 18yrs and that’s on the side.

This is a public internet domain / forum do you think I’m illiterate or something. Post and Show you my credentials, pshhhh.

😳Do you pay my salary or my shops mortgage, do you feed my 6 bulldogs, do you buy my groceries, do you pay my nursing college tuition. Nope

I’ll be blunt and to the point. I answer questions based of protocol at Nissan. If you don’t like my response, it’s simple, move on and ignore. No need to call me a prick or any thing disrespectful BRO😝
 

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I answer questions based of protocol at Nissan.

Protocols at YOUR Nissan dealership. Not Nissan. Not Nissan Corporate, NOT even based on Nissans FSM. I am actually fairly sure that if I called YOUR Nissan Dealership and started asking these questions they would say the opposite of you. Do not claim this is how NISSAN does it. It is not. It is not how Inifiniti (RIP LOL) does it. It is not how Toyota does it. It is not how Subaru does it. It is not how Lamborghini does it. It is not how Fiat does it.

Just because someone is an experienced technician, does not mean they know the world of aftermarket performance. So, questioning someones ability to perform work and diagnostics because they ASK questions (which by the way is how you learn) makes you really seem dim. I am an ASE Certified technician (which at the end of the day does not really mean much, but that's a conversation for another time lol), an AA tech, and have built a LOT of performance cars from scratch; but even I still learn, I still ask questions. Maybe not on a public forum, i prefer the read a few FSM's and do proper research route to get information, or even the good ol' experimentation route, but you still learn.

Bottom line is you are wrong. About a lot of things. And that is okay. It happens. I have been wrong in the past about some stuff. Squirt has been wrong about some stuff. EVERYONE is wrong about stuff sometimes. The difference is: you either can admit it and move on, ignore the fact that you are wrong and ignore forum posts and not answer, OR get out there and PROVE you where actually right with our work with either photos/printed documents/videos. But the way NOT to handle it is be a prick about it and go calling people "Bro". I literally do not respond to emails that have the word BRO in them. It is not a term of respect. It is quite the opposite.

The reason up until lately I have avoided this forum so strongly is because of people like you who refuse the truth based on facts and prefer a truth based on a single-minded view. But. With recent events in my life, I have seen that a more mature response to these things are needed. So coming in here and posting information that you have not verified as TRUE, or not at least looking into what LITERALLY EVERYONE else is telling you to see if you are wrong shows a lack of maturity.

On a side note: There is no way to convince people on social media or anywhere in the media of the actual truth these days, and I know even spending time writing this out is a giant waste of my time and will probably end up aggravating the hell out of me. But at least I tried haha
 

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First I’m not fixing argue with you Matt. I know what your about and as a highly valued fabricator I respect you for that. I don’t take to kindly to being called a prick and yea that reply towards me set the tone.

I give information based of what I see at work. Maybe where you have previously worked at may have followed different Guidelines. That maybe a factor.

Also I’m not here to convince any body specially online. I just answered a simple question based on evidence from what I see at work.

Also In regards to people like me, what are you implying ? Just asking

FYI You might want to back track a few messages on the juke forum boards.
From what I recall I was defending your name on a few questions and keeping it neutral.

Like I stated before, as a fabricator I respect you and that’s why I’m choosing to deescalate, not argue and just call it a wrap. No worries Matt.
 

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Er, how would unplugging the MAP or MAF require a complete reprogramming of the ECU? That's bananas level stupid. It's a sensor it simply reports data back to the computer when the car is running, they don't store anything on their own. Those devices literally have no onboard memory or anything of the sort. Unplugging them does nothing harmful even if the battery is still connected.

I just took my MAF and MAP out and cleaned them up. Suppose I better take it into Nissan and tell them they need to reprogram my car now - would love to see the looks on their faces.

I know not all techs are bad and I'm not going to lump all of them in that category, NissanEgg for example always seemed to know his stuff although he has disappeared. But that bulldog guy, if he even was a Nissan tech (doubt it), was about as competent as most of the other ones I have interacted with.

I mean he said he had an 800hp Juke. The Juke R has a GTR engine in it and it produces 600hp. I don't think any amount of modification is going to get 800hp out of our little turbo fours and claiming that you are makes you look like that kid on the playground who tells everyone his dad works at Nintendo.
 

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I mean he said he had an 800hp Juke. The Juke R has a GTR engine in it and it produces 600hp. I don't think any amount of modification is going to get 800hp out of our little turbo fours and claiming that you are makes you look like that kid on the playground who tells everyone his dad works at Nintendo.
Toss me $100,000 and ill get 800 horsepower out of one easily, $25,000ish will get you 400 :plol Or you can go buy a r32 GTR, drop 20K into it and make the same XD But yea, no one has a 800 hp juke. Just ignore what this guy says, he is not worth the hassle of arguing with, no one on the internet is.
 

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Toss me $100,000 and ill get 800 horsepower out of one easily, $25,000ish will get you 400 :plol Or you can go buy a r32 GTR, drop 20K into it and make the same XD But yea, no one has a 800 hp juke. Just ignore what this guy says, he is not worth the hassle of arguing with, no one on the internet is.
LOLOLOL> Totally True
 
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