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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
All.

My daughter's first car - a 2015 NISMO (bought it used) is making some strange noises. If anyone can assist I'd be grateful as the Nissan dealer couldn't find anything wrong with it.

1st Noise: Driving at 35 - 40 MPH, take foot off pedal and begin to decelerate, a 'whirring' or flying saucer sound begins and the pitch of the noise changes relative to the speed of the car. Even if I change AWD to Adaptive AWD to 2WD, the noise remains. Even if I change driving modes from Sport to Normal to Eco, the noise remains. If I drop it into Neutral, the noise softens a bit. We changed the CVT fluid immediately after purchasing. Had it been changed before the 75000 mark? We don't know. A mechanic (not Nissan) said that the differential fluid should be changed as well. Any correlation?

2nd Noise: If you get up to speed (40 MPH) and feather the gas pedal, a kind of grinding noise is heard. Take foot off, no noise. Feather the pedal, a grinding noise. Turbo recirculation valve? Blow off valve? I'm just grasping at straws.

This was my first time driving it today so I was trying to reproduce these issues, which I easily did. In spite of these noises, the car drives perfectly. Responsive, spirited and fun. I just hope that there aren't underlying issues that may ultimately ruin her first car purchase. She can barely afford this car let alone be saddled with repairs.

Noise #1
 

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Does it have a 30 day warranty cause it does not sound good.

Differential fluid wont change much of anything,

The CVT fluid should be changed again. You barely get half out during a fluid swap. I doubt it will fix the noises.

There is a reason that the car was for sale.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That date has come and gone.

I let a Nissan dealer have at it for a week. I was hoping that they would find an issue and then repair it under the extended CVT warranty (7 Years/84K) that was a result of a lawsuit. But they found no issue with it. They changed the fluid, not me.

I may try another dealer that's a bit more motivated.
 

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If you can record the sound on video. That would help immensely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you can record the sound on video. That would help immensely.
It's funny that at the beginning of the day I would have said that Noise #1 bothered me the most. Now, I feel like Noise #2 is the most troubling. I feel the Scout_Master may be correct in the assumption that it's turbo related. When I'm up to speed and depress the gas pedal, the grinding noise is present.

Noise #1 is confusing. Do CVT make whining/whirring noises in general? It seems to change pitch in direct proportion to the speed of the car. I do know that the rotors were extremely rusty when she bought it but the rust has to be removed by now.
 

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A new turbo is not fun. You can check on it by removing the whole intake. You need to get to the impeller wheel.

Automotive tire Bicycle part Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Alloy wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A new turbo is not fun. You can check on it by removing the whole intake. You need to get to the impeller wheel.

View attachment 192126
I am an IT Manager. I don't do auto repair. I'm merely soliciting opinions and advice so I can make my local mechanics wealthy. I appreciate your enthusiasm, though. And please don't stop offering insight, if you're so inclined.
 

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It all depends on the noise. We cant hear it so we are just guessing.
 
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I posted a link to the noise in the original post.
Well good news. Does not sound like a turbo. To me that sounds like a wheel bearing or bearing in general. The right front likes to go out on these. Well at least reported in the forums.

If not them a bearing in the PTU. The front transfer case. Where the power gets sent to the rear magnetic differentials.

Lastly. A bearing in the CVT.

A mechanic can trace the sound down while it is on a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well good news. Does not sound like a turbo. To me that sounds like a wheel bearing or bearing in general. The right front likes to go out on these. Well at least reported in the forums.

If not then a bearing in the PTU. The front transfer case. Where the power gets sent to the rear magnetic differentials.

Lastly. A bearing in the CVT.

A mechanic can trace the sound down while it is on a lift.
Another user suggested a wheel bearing but I mentioned that the sound all but disappears when I throw it into Neutral. IS that enough to discount the wheel bearings?

A bearing in the CVT? Does this TECHNICAL BULLETIN apply?

This sounds like Nissan is aware of the CVT issues but won't generate a Recall, rather wait for owners to come forward. Here's the Class Action Lawsuit info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Another user suggested a wheel bearing but I mentioned that the sound all but disappears when I throw it into Neutral. IS that enough to discount the wheel bearings?

A bearing in the CVT? Does this TECHNICAL BULLETIN apply?

This sounds like Nissan is aware of the CVT issues but won't generate a Recall, rather wait for owners to come forward. Here's the Class Action Lawsuit info.
User Bargeld replied with the following:

You stated in that post that the noise softens a bit when in neutral, which is part of the equation of my suggestion. I'm going to stick with tire/wheel/bearing, but add cv axle to that. It is definitely an external noise being exuded through the tire/drive area. The low frequency of the sound ensures it. If it was turbo or CVT it would sound much more high pitched, metal on metal, being exuded by the metal mechanical assemblies that contain both of those components.

The sound is directly correlated and in matching frequency with the tire/axle rotation directly. It is not a geared or stepped higher or lower frequency of that tire/axle rotation. Turbo would not follow the wheel or axle. Test by spooling turbo up quickly from 1500 to 4500 rpm and quickly take foot off gas to allow venting. The sound of the turbo will not be in sync with the sound of the noise.

If it was CVT, then put it in sport mode and let it auto shift. Or use manual drive modes to change gears. The change in rpms of the engine will not match the noise. In both instances, the noise will just continue along, based on road speed, and the noises in the other components will not be in sync, signifying that they are unrelated.

You need to take it to a dealership. Even if you receive an acceptable answer, it's still going to end up in the shop.


Does this hold water in the eyes of the forum?
 

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Yep
 

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Yes, tire/wheel/bearing/cv axle should be less expensive than either turbo or cvt repairs. Also good news, I forgot you were reporting 2 noises, but I would bet they are related and have same root problem. Fix that root problem and both noises will be resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, tire/wheel/bearing/cv axle should be less expensive than either turbo or cvt repairs. Also good news, I forgot you were reporting 2 noises, but I would bet they are related and have same root problem. Fix that root problem and both noises will be resolved.
While perusing the forum in trying to find similar explanations to Noise #2, people spoke of a recirculation valve or blow off valve, though I've never heard of either before. Some say 'Relax...it's just a noise from the turbo sucking in air.' It's just sounds like a unpleasant grinding noise.

I ask these questions to decide whether to dump her car or keep it. Thanks to you and Macgyver and your efforts, it just may be redeemable after all.
 
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