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I think Gene covers his recommendations in his build thread. Start about post #30

 

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Thanks Swiftab.

Yes, there are options off the shelf from Supertech, Ford dealership, and some custom machined spring locators.

Supertech originally co-developed the FR version of the valve spring upgrade Juke package, I honestly don’t know if they would sell it to anyone now or not now that FR is out of active business. That kit used non-beehive springs but the titanium retainers are nice. The kit also lacks sprin seats/locators. The factory are beehive with very lightweight retainers and steel spring seats/locators. I made 4130 steel spring seat/locators that keep everything nice and squared up, couldn’t find anything that worked from Supertech. Some say upgraded springs aren’t needed but higher boost and cams make it a nice to have, especially at higher rpms.

Let me know if you need any specific info you don’t find in the build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pboglio thanks .. actually this noon I called the customer service from super tech and they don’t have anything for Juke!! Unfortunately... but if you can provide any PN maybe I can see if they still work on this part
 

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Yes, Supertech are not very helpful.
I’ll go thru my notes tonight for what I used on my build.
 
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@pboglio Do you see any reason to consider doing something for my build (if I can ever get a tune and call it finished)?
 

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@pboglio Do you see any reason to consider doing something for my build (if I can ever get a tune and call it finished)?
Well I'd think a set of cams would work great for that Blouch 16g. Crower charged me $430 shipped and was 3 weeks lead-time. I shared with you guys in my build thread the P/N for the Juke cam profile that Crower cams developed, so it's pretty much straight forward phone call and send your's in. My cams had increased duration on intake/exhaust, plus some extra exhaust lift too. The trick is that they are regrinds and required lash cap shims for the existing cam buckets due to the cam base-circle grinding. But I have a source for those so it'd be drop-in plug and play with a shop who knows what they are doing. Springs are nice to have but I don't think they are mandatory with these style cams, especially with a lower rev limit that the CVT has.
 

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Here are the P/N, sorry for the delay:

SuperTech P/N SPR-FE20BE, qty 16, $15 ea.
SuperTech P/N KPR-5.5/7A ST, qty 16, $2.48 ea.
Ford P/N 1S7Z-6514-AA, qty 32, $2.48 ea.

These are the springs, keepers, and spring retainers. Total about $369 plus $42 shipping from Supertech in California, so $411 total, depending on your location.

However, I'm going to be running lash shim adjusters for my Crower cams which sit on top of the intake/exhaust valve stem tip. So on a STOCK setup this is going to raise the retainer upwards using the KPR-5.5/7A ST keeper lock, or the short version. This is necessary to give the spring less preload and push the retainer up higher to get the valvetrain geometry correct. The OEM cam bucket may not clear the raised retainer, this MUST be checked otherwise it'll unload the retainer and release the valve from it's lock.....not good. Supertech also have a KPR-5.5/7A LG which is the long keeper version that'll move the retainer back to stock position, but it messes with the spring preload and bind height, I don't recommend it. It's up to you to understand the valvetrain geometry and correct it if needed.

Also, this doesn't include the custom 4130 spring seats/locators I designed and had machined, that was another $387 total for 18 pcs my cost from my local machine shop. With the $411 spring/retainer/keeper cost, the total out the door is about $798 shipped for a high quality full spring upgrade package for (1) piece order. The original FR/Supertech spring package was $550 without spring seats and no shipping costs So if you guys absolutely need valve springs for a full engine build, I can work with you members.

The Supertech springs are ultra-modern "conical", better than the OE beehive and extremely light at 26 grams vs 33 stock, mainly due to being shorter and weight optimized. The Ford retainers are 10 grams vs. 4.4 grams stock, I custom machined mine down to 8.8 grams while maintaining most of the critical strength. The Supertech keeper locks are high strength machined and worth the upgrade cost over the standard forged versions. The Ford retainers are forged & hardened, basically unbreakable though a bit heavy. Supertech actually recommend the OE Ford retainers on their spring upgrade kit, so they are a proven combo on the Ford Focus.

Total valvetrain weight (valve, spring, keepers, retainer, etc.) is 71.5 grams upgraded vs 73 grams stock. This weight value is a little deceptive because some of the weight doesn't move, like the bottom coil of the spring. So I take a mean effective weight that averages all the weights depending on their acceleration rates. Complicated how I measured this but I did it the same way connecting rods are measured to get the big end and small end weights. Anyway, this comes to 60.7 grams upgraded vs. 59.1 grams stock. This is a close weight match to the OE. Based on these weights & spring rates I'd estimate if the stock engine floated at 7000 rpms, the upgrade springs would push it to about 8100 rpms. The boost level has a big part to play as well so that is a variable that also changes valve float rpm. I personally would not spin a stock motor past 7500 rpms due to the mechanical fuel pump cam follower "float" and resulting engine leanout that may occur.

Finally, you WILL have increased wear on the camshaft lobe and timing chain from the upgraded springs, probably lower fuel economy too. Higher spring load means higher cam bucket/lobe friction, more power lost at light cruise, higher timing chain tension, etc. I highly recommend a racing synthetic oil like Valvoline VR1 10w30 with higher zinc/phosphorus wear package for flat tappet engine types. The timing chain change interval will potentially also need to be changed more often as well. I'm going to be doing a chain replacement every 24-30k miles. There has been a lot of debate on timing chain life on other threads. My opinion is a stock chain well maintained will go 100k miles, with upgraded springs and higher engine rpms it stands no chance at that mileage. I have an expensive motor to protect, and the timing chain replacement will only cost me $248 in parts, so it'll get changed often. Again, think about this before you throw high force springs on the car thinking it's all upside.

Here are the spring rates as installed based on the service manual and my custom spring rate calculator:

Intake: 39.5lbs seated/ 85.5 lbs open
Exhaust: 65.5 lbs seated/113 lbs open

Aftemarket Intake: 80 lbs seated/151 lbs open
Aftermarket Exhaust: 80 lbs seated/ 147 lbs open
 
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I am going to sticky this. If you do not want it up there. lmk.
 

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somebody know where I can find a racing valve and spring for mr16ddt?
They don't exist bro, you have to get someone to machine you a custom set. Truereligion and my self which i don't post often are the closes to racing valve train on the Juke engine. I had a machine shop fab me set from scratch titanium. Regarless of the alloy that you choose is not cheap, and you will need experience or a good machine shop to get proper came clearance for the cylinder head to work efficiently.
 

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It is being built right now.......

Hence the Sticky. All the info is above.
 

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They don't exist bro, you have to get someone to machine you a custom set. Truereligion and my self which i don't post often are the closes to racing valve train on the Juke engine. I had a machine shop fab me set from scratch titanium. Regarless of the alloy that you choose is not cheap, and you will need experience or a good machine shop to get proper came clearance for the cylinder head to work efficiently.
Congrats on the custom titanium retainers. Actually FR had an upgraded head/valvetrain already. Mine is sitting near complete on my bench waiting for the head gasket surface to get decked. If you use the bigger/heavier springs and titanium retainer that FR used with Supertech, the titanium provide no real net weight improvement over the Ford steel retainers on conical springs which are smaller. The fact Supertech don't even offer titanium retainers for the Ford Focus springs they offer is telling. Using the beehive or conical springs with a smaller titanium retainer would be killer, but I'd only do it if Supertech offered them and beefed up the design significantly more than what they offer on other spring setups. The risk of fretting wear and failure with titanium is much higher than steel, so there is more post processing to keep them from fracturing.

When you think about the airflow limit of the stock exhaust valves, there is still an rpm limit to the motor. I can't see much above 8000 rpms without going to an oversize exhaust valve, even if it would fit.
 

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“However, I'm going to be running lash shim adjusters for my Crower cams which sit on top of the intake/exhaust valve stem tip.[/QUOTE]
-I’m looking further understand and hopefully replicate the head work your doing.
-Could I get the same adjustment results from grinding down the bottom side of the shims?
-Thanks so much for all the part #info and help!
 

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I responded to your but I'll answer here.

  • The headwork, just send it out to Headgames or Portflow, etc. These heads if anything need a valve job, the seats get beatup pretty bad. Anyone offering headwork without a valve job knows nothing about heads, the seal has to be perfect, absolutely leak-proof. Think Swiss watch-maker perfection.
  • I did my own headwork. DO NOT attempt this unless you are a crazy DYI type and have HUGE amount of spare time. Having said that, you can get a result as good as anything the shops can do. Technique is everything, if you want to attempt it I'll provide what I did to get it right.
  • I'm running brand new OE valves, I won't refinish stock valves due to fatigue wear. They are cheap, the exhaust are sodium filled so a bit of an upgrade as well.
  • The head just needs new valve stem seals, valve guides wear very little. My exhaust valve guides were on the limit, but the amount of labor to pull them and re-cut the valve seats is insane. Keep it simple. PortFlow know these things already, that's what they told me and I confirmed it.
  • The head gasket surface needs only a re-surface for a Viton coated head gasket, the shop will know what to do.
  • The intake mating surface just needs cleaning up, it comes with a molded o-ring type seal.
  • The exhaust manifold mating surface will probably be warped, mine was out quite a bit. It can be decked flat. I took a file and decked it myself, took maybe 40 hours. You'd think aluminum is soft, think again. Machine shop can do it, highly recommended as it reduces the chances of snapping an exhaust manifold stud.
  • Did I mention you need new exhaust manifold studs, DO NOT reuse the old ones. Amateur mistake. I upgraded to Mamba studs but I recommend OE as they are longer. Torque to spec, if everything is flat the multi-layer gasket will do all the work with torque at factory spec. Anti-seize here but adjust to a lower spec due to the lower friction.
  • Grinding down shims, not a fan of it. Purchase precision ground shims so Upper/Lower are parallel. Not a good place to attempt a DYI here. Full set maybe $96 for (16). Source from www.fab9tuning.com (start with PN LC-55-2.15), they have all different sizes that are exact fit.
  • The Crower cams were PN F24120. Nothing special about them, I don't care who says otherwise. They analyze using a computer cam profilometer what they can get from it safely. Not a friendly bunch over there at Crower, but just sit back and let them do their thing. They straighten the cams then re-harden them. Follow the break-in procedure for new cams to the letter along with the grease they provide. I mentioned the high zinc Valvoline Race oil for normal use, but first use break-in oil. With normal synthetic oil on a flat tappet cam, it won't survive. Do your research on flat tappet bucket cams.
  • Pre-oil the valve guide seals by lubing them before install, otherwise you'll burn them up on startup.
  • The Supertech springs need a break-in, follow it religiously or they will overheat and eventually fail. II'll post something up or just google "valve spring-break in". It's a heat cycling break-in, then a cool down.
  • I'm probably missing something, but you get the idea.
I'm still waiting to install my setup, so cross the fingers.
 
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