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Hi Folks! Newbie here but looking time lurker.
It's the wife's 2014 SV AWD with CVT. Got the car a couple of years ago. It had 23k miles. Now it has 51K.

Did oil change and CVT fluid change today. That drain was taking forever. I got a little over 5 quarts out. Put the same amount back in. Warmed it up and shifted the car between R, N and D. The level is somewhere in the between the two notches.
All seemed normal so i took it on a test drive. Drove it in NORMAL and SPORT modes. It shifted normally. All is well.
But....i used CVTz50 for the first time. The CVT temp was running high, the highest was 207°F. The drive was a little over 10 miles. Got home, kept it running to check level. Temp slowly went down. All is good but should i be worried about the temp? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
 

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Welcome! I have done pretty extensive CVT monitoring through the app, under many conditions and states of modification.

207*F is roughly 97.2*C. The FSM states that top-range safe operating temp is around 90*C (194*F). You're not far from that.

However, and somewhat anecdotally, I could not keep my Juke under 90*C regularly almost ever. Even when it was cool. After my tune I saw temps of 110-115*C after mildly spirited driving. So, I turned to a cooler. I used a Derale stacked plate (10) and mounted it to the radiator. Cost about $100 for the part and I'd imagine an hour of shop labor to install if not DIY. After doing this I saw reliable temperature drops of up to 50*F (sorry for the conversion gore). After 45min or so in the heat, it will eventually soak and temps will creep up near 90*C again, but usually 79-84*C, so the creep only affects me maybe 2% of the time. If I did it again, I would've gone the larger 16 plate model but I don't regret keeping the one I have.

Link for DIY (applies to your year model):

https://youtu.be/RPDW9vmWDKo

Hope that helps!

EDIT- Mac makes a good point about geography, and certainly even elevation. Amarillo gets both extremes. 110*+ summers, and down to 0-signle digits in the winters.Your results may vary, plus you're an AWD and I'm not.
 

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Thats why the Euro Jukes and Nissan Rogues come with coolers. North American Jukes got ripped off.

I think the fluid level needs to be near to top too. Not that it will help the temps much. Jukes were all over the place as far as how they were filled from the factory.

Where you live has a lot to do with Temps. Texas vs Vermont.......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I noticed the sticky regarding the monitoring and read it. Good to know that what I'm seeing is not far from what others are seeing. Like someone said, it's probably been running like that and i just didn't know it until i got the app.
By the way, that drain plug was on there pretty tight and it didn't have a crush washer.
Something else I'm experiencing about the Juke. There is a deep or low rattle that seems to be coming from the rear end but I could be wrong. It only happens at a red light. Even when i put it in PARK although it's not as bad. It does not happen all the time and i think it goes away after the it has warmed up really good. I need to pay attention next time i drive it.
 

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Welcome! I have done pretty extensive CVT monitoring through the app, under many conditions and states of modification.

207*F is roughly 97.2*C. The FSM states that top-range safe operating temp is around 90*C (194*F). You're not far from that.

However, and somewhat anecdotally, I could not keep my Juke under 90*C regularly almost ever. Even when it was cool. After my tune I saw temps of 110-115*C after mildly spirited driving. So, I turned to a cooler. I used a Derale stacked plate (10) and mounted it to the radiator. Cost about $100 for the part and I'd imagine an hour of shop labor to install if not DIY. After doing this I saw reliable temperature drops of up to 50*F (sorry for the conversion gore). After 45min or so in the heat, it will eventually soak and temps will creep up near 90*C again, but usually 79-84*C, so the creep only affects me maybe 2% of the time. If I did it again, I would've gone the larger 16 plate model but I don't regret keeping the one I have.
THIS is the post that started my quest for a cooler on my 2011. CVT temps always above 100c and up to 115, even more.

Now I have the 4 outlet bee hive and a big Hayden 677 cooler. It didnt help. Thought it was the outlets facing down so today we flipped it and even replaced the filter. STILL running hot 100+ (reached 109 today with somewhat spirited highway driving, 103 around town) even around town in 70 degree temps today, and very slow to drop. With a big cooler the CVT should cool right down when letting off or coasting. Not mine. The cooler does get hot, so its flowing, but obviously there must not be enough cvt fluid moving through it... I wonder if lack of o-ring on the beehive supply port is a problem? (some fluid leaking back to the return rather than through the beehive)

Meanwhile Juklear has huge temp drop and cant get above 90, while I cant get below 100! Is it his gen 2 square beehive? His cooler is different? What could it be?
 

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I'm a fraud! Sorry to hear this is still a challenge on your part. I haven't driven my car in so long I feel very disconnected from Jukeland right now.

It always kinna seened to me like the square beehive is essentially a factory-provided version of what you'd purchase aftermarket for the V1.

@FastReligion whatcha got on this, seeing as you've done coolers and DIY videos on both?
 

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I'm having a hard time getting a handle on what works and what doesn't maybe the square one is more efficient somehow I don't know

In my other topic, I proposed to totally different solution...
 

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I would think about the best cooler possible too.

Remember the cvt cooler is fighting the engine oil and coolant temps. Well actually its fighting the whole system and doing the inverse too. Raising the system temps.
 

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well today, I checked after a highway ride in 85 degree outside temps. CVT was 130c (thats 265f!)

the cooler out front is apparently not much help. It is exactly as the other coolers I found in here that supposedly keep the cvt cool.

Im out of ideas. may as well remove it and just plug the extra cooling lines on the aftermarket beehive.

I did consider trying one of those adapter plates that divert all the fluid not just some to the cooler out front. but I'd like to see some examples that show proof they work.

:mad::mad:
 

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Well did you change your CVT fluid?

What is your Jukes coolant/engine temp?

What cooler did you use ?
 

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coolant temp is exactly fine. I only added cvt fluid to replace what was lost installing the cooler. I used a Hayden 677 cooler and a beehive with the extra barbs. these temps are really high with not even much load
 

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coolant temp is exactly fine. I only added cvt fluid to replace what was lost installing the cooler. I used a Hayden 677 cooler and a beehive with the extra barbs. these temps are really high with not even much load
Did you add fluid to fill the cooler as well? When adding a cooler, you add total fluid capacity to the system. If you do not increase the total amount of fluid to account for the cooler and associated lines, the amount of fluid in the pan will be too low.
 

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Did you add fluid to fill the cooler as well? When adding a cooler, you add total fluid capacity to the system. If you do not increase the total amount of fluid to account for the cooler and associated lines, the amount of fluid in the pan will be too low.

My juke is a 2011 with the cvt dipstick and it was showing ok on that. But if cvt fluid were a little low, does that result if these high temps?
 

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My juke is a 2011 with the cvt dipstick and it was showing ok on that. But if cvt fluid were a little low, does that result if these high temps?
Could be. Fluid may not be circulating, creating air pockets and hot spots. If you did not bleed the air from the cooler and fill it with fluid before installing it, it may be full of air, making it basically worthless. That cooler is a great design for efficiency, but it is built like a radiator with multiple smaller tubes going between two main tubes, rather than a single line going back and forth with fins attached to it-- it needs to be full of fluid and not air to work. Is it mounted higher than the transmission (making it hard to bleed)? Also, transmission fluid is the primary heat transfer fluid-- the less of it you have the less capacity it has to absorb and transfer heat.
 

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Could be. Fluid may not be circulating, creating air pockets and hot spots. If you did not bleed the air from the cooler and fill it with fluid before installing it, it may be full of air, making it basically worthless. That cooler is a great design for efficiency, but it is built like a radiator with multiple smaller tubes going between two main tubes, rather than a single line going back and forth with fins attached to it-- it needs to be full of fluid and not air to work. Is it mounted higher than the transmission (making it hard to bleed)? Also, transmission fluid is the primary heat transfer fluid-- the less of it you have the less capacity it has to absorb and transfer heat.
we first mounted it with the tubes pointing down, and then I figured it may be air bound. so we took the nose off again and turned it sideways with the 'out' tube at the top so any air would leave. so I dont think its that. but this is very weird cuz the cvt is running hot as if there was no cooler when there is one.

I was thinking when looking at the beehive that only some fluid goes thru the cooler and those adapter plates force ALL the fluid out to the cooler, but the one I saw was $70 on ebay so thats more money to just "try" something. I dont have the old beehive as my mechanic tossed it. so if I get that plate, then I would just have to cap the extra barbs on this ebay beehive.

another option which is very costly, would be to buy a new cvt oil pan, install 2 1/2" hose fittings, and run a electric oil cooler pump on it with a thermostat, if it gets above 190 or something, the pump kicks in. but that would cost over $200 for the pump alone, plus a bigger cooler, hoses, thermostat, wiring, a relay and a switch. But I think that would be the ultimate.

im just really surprised that with this beehive and cooler, it still runs as high as it does.
 

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Well what is the temp of the Cooler after a hot drive?

Have you changed your fluid ? Old fluid will cause very high temps.
 

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another option which is very costly, would be to buy a new cvt oil pan, install 2 1/2" hose fittings, and run a electric oil cooler pump on it with a thermostat, if it gets above 190 or something, the pump kicks in. but that would cost over $200 for the pump alone, plus a bigger cooler, hoses, thermostat, wiring, a relay and a switch. But I think that would be the ultimate.
I have also been a little bit disappointed with my cvt cooler setup as well, and I was wondering about running another pump in line with the hoses going to the unit, but I don't know if that would interfere with the way the transmission already circulates the fluid through the system.

The oil pan sounds like an awesome idea, potentially overkill. But I did talk to a Nissan tech one time who thought somebody should make a performance cvt pan with baffles in it to also combat against aerating the fluid, which is also very bad for the cvt.
 

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I have not changed the fluid, didnt think that older fluid could create high temps. It does have some new fluid mixed in from the cooler install, and from what I understand, you cant get all the fluid out anyway so you cant really 'change" the fluid, just dilute it with new, right?


Jaxxa, here is the continuous duty Tilton pump, but it "only" moves 1-2 gallons per minute which sounds kinda low to me. What do u think? A couple hose barbs on the pan and a switch/relat maybe a thermostat switch and IF it moves enough oil and IF the cooler is big enough (mine is pretty big I think), I dont see how it could NOT work...

Tilton Transmission and/or Differential Oil Cooler Pumps 40-527
 

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I have built "oversized" CVT Pans that have added 4 quarts of extra fluid, along with a rear mounted pump and 12"x18" CVT cooler with a fan (On Insane Juke). It did not reduce high speed CVT temps enough to prevent limp mode after hard pulls at 267hp on a big turbo.

At a certain point the internals wear out and cause the cvt to over-heat no matter the size cooler. IF you run too large a cooler and your CVT is healthy, you can actually over-cool the CVT fluid and cause the car to think the CVT is not warmed up yet which will change how the CVT acts.

A CVT cooler is just a way to slow the progression of the CVT deterioration, it will not prevent it outright. For example, my friend Angela started having CVT limp mode after 1-1:30 hours of driving, so she came to me and I installed a cooler, told her it was band-aide to buy her more time. 3-4 months later in the dead of winter she calls me and says its doing it again. We replace the CVT, keep the cooler on there, and for the past 3 years has not had a problem.

On my first Juke 5-6 years ago, I put a MASSIVE CVT cooler on it to do some testing when the CVT had 80k miles on it. It started acting funny. CVT levels where okay, but i logged the CVT temps via consult and saw that the CVT fluid temp was getting just a hair over ambient air temp when on the highway, it was cooling too much. Removed the large cooler and installed the one I currently sell, and never had an issue, I sold that car at 130k miles with full bolts ons and daily beatings.

Juke CVTs all fail. It is not a matter of IF it is a matter of when. Some fail spectacularly, like the one on my Nismo that Just got stuck in a high gear ratio, some slowly die by wearing of the internals to where friction heat just happens. I tell everyone who is looking to buy one of these cars this: Put aside $100 a month til you have $3000 saved up, then WHEN the CVT dies, your ready to toss a new one in.
 
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