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So if you were to rebuild a Mamba or even an OEM by sending it to a company like Egg did. What would you use for a 6speed like mine? I am already at 285whp 255wtq 21psi. She Rips for sure. I dont want to do all the mods for a "Big" turbo and hopefully the RS clutch can hold. Bolting on an OEM style but higly modded turbo makes sense especially since we know now the Juke is limited by the cam and head design to 330whp. I know there is more there with my Juke. My tuner is good and I know he could have gotten more out of my setup. He just wanted to move on to the next "STI" since Juke means nothing to his fan club etc.

Egg has not installed his BNR modified turbo or has not posted numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Well, I don't believe an upgraded turbo based on the stock turbo will push more than 300-320 w.h.p. It could get you another 15-20 h.p. on the topend with a little more lag. It's an easy swap out since it's their own design meant to fit with their taller billet wheels. Also, running the Mamba 2.5" compressor inlet I believe would pickup another +10 h.p. with a good CAI setup since the stock cast compressor intake is really tiny for these kind of airflows. I'm going to have that custom welded so it'll be 2.5" to 3" then 3.5" to the CAI front bumper pickup. Beyond that you are looking at custom headers and turbos and things start getting really expensive.

The one option you COULD do is try a manifold adapter to fit something like an EVO3 16g or Garret etc. It's sort of like a thick 1" spacer that adapts the bolt pattern from the stock manifold to the bolt pattern of the new turbo. It would take a machine shop but something like that is fairly easy to send online to have fabricated.

It sounds like you have a pretty awesome setup already. I'd be happy as hell if I had 285 w.h.p. on my AWD Juke. I'm curious to see Egg's results myself.

I'm hoping 2j can expand on their product lineup for the Juke. Maybe we can petition a group buy for some cams since that would really be a huge improvement.
Maybe I can contact FULL RACE about a custom thick walled exhaust header for Mitsubishi/Garrett turbos.
 

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Oh boy that HL 9 blade design got my attention!
 

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Thanks so much for taking the time to document your work! Looking forward to this weekend updates. I'm also having CVT problems but started another thread so I'm not distracting from yours.

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Here's a comparison of the Juke turbine housing vs. a Mitsubishi 6cm turbine housing. The open collector dia. is something like 1.8" on both but they are close enough that it doesn't mean too much. Porting here doesn't produce much if any gains and on the Juke the manifold fires straight in so this isn't a restriction in this area. The area above the wastegate is the volute cross section. This area is what chokes the flow down and accelerates it. On both they are close to 0.95 in^2 as measured by a caliper in the x & y direction. The Mitsubishi 6cm can flow 300 h.p. all day long and can be pushed to 350 h.p. The 19T is technically good to almost 540 cfm or 37 lb/min based on the compressor map, 370 h.p. at the crank. The compressor housing also has a large diameter and would have no problems supporting the 19T to it's max rating. Even the wastegate flapper is huge. The only real limiting item is the TD04L turbine wheel (here shown with the TF035). Also you can note that the TF035 stock turbo has an "open" dump for the wastegate, where the Mitsubishi turbine housing is divided. The open dump tends to hurt turbine flow but helps boost control so it's tolerated. The EVO X turbine (not shown) looks like the Juke turbine so you can draw conclusions from that.

The BNR turbo uses a TD04HL turbine based on their website description and clips it by 5-10* by the look of it. The TD04HL is actually a tall wheel compared to the TD04L and if it were installed it would almost hang out of the bore. Yet it sits at the same level as my TD04L wheel on my Mamba with the blades recessed into the exducer bore. IMHO they are running a TD04L with a 5-10* clip, but I'd have to physically measure one to be certain. I say this because I took apart the Mamba and measured the material left for a TD04HL retrofit for the (52mm inducer, 45.6mm exducer) and their was a sliver of material left if it were machined for such a large wheel. That material would never survive the high exhaust temps or pressures. I quickly discarded the idea that a TD04HL could even fit, but anything is possible. The BNR (TD04HL) is placed next to the Boostec (TD04L) and they look near identical except the turbine wheel clip.

The clipping or machining of the blade on a backcut angle can tend to murder spoolup but supposedly opens up the topend. It usually just kills efficiency which means the wastegate has to close further to just power the compressor, so you start needing to flow even more thru the turbine. I've run clipped (2) times, once on a TD04 and once on the TD05H. I found the TD04 to have spooled fast even with the clip but it was choked anyway by the turbine housing, so it was tough to say if it helped or hurt. The TD05H spool was completely murdered by 500 rpms and the torque was greatly reduced compared to an unclipped setup. So different experiences based on different setups.

The Mamba TD04L-9 high flow turbine is a little different. They reduce the turbine wheel "hub" to increase flow for the same size wheel. If you notice they then add more blade root "webbing" at the base to re-support the blade, yet the whole thing still weighs less where it matters for faster spool. They also reduce the blade count from 12 to 9 blades for pressure drop reduction. Normally this would affect drive torque, so they add blade "height" to compensate which doesn't negatively affect flow. Next, the blades are cast with a slight "clip" or back angle cut to un-shroud the wheel a bit. Also note the blade thickness & "radiusing" at the hub, like a wing on an airplane. I would take this wheel 100x over a clipped TD04L. However........it is NOT a Mitsubishi wheel. It's a China made wheel. But I'd still risk it for the improved flow and aero.

OK, so what does all this mean? The goal is to have a "balanced" turbo. Good size compressor, good size turbine housing, high flowing turbine. Whenever there is a big mismatch in compressor & turbine it won't perform well. You need to run huge boost just to power the compressor and this adds a ton of backpressure to the engine. The 19T historically either in the TD04L or TD04HL was an OK upgrade for the Volvo or Subaru guys but people then just moved on to the 16g because it is a more balanced turbo with the TD05H turbine wheel. The TD04L turbine wheel upgrade maybe can give the 19T some more balance for those guys who aren't looking to go above 310 w.h.p. (350 h.p. crank).

Pics below are the stock Juke turbo and Mitsubishi 6cm housing (DSM/Eclipse/Talon), BNR, Boostec, Mamba 9 blade (1), Mamba 9 blade (2).

 

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Dumb question, I have a mamba turbo. Does it come with 12 blades or 9? I remember looking at a comparison of my oem juke turbo compared to the mamba and looked like mamba had less blades. Is my memory serving me right?
 

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Nah, the Mamba has more blades than stock
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Stock TF035 comes with 11 blades. The stock design is closer to the 9-blade TD04L with a slight sweep back and smaller hub design and some nice aero. It's actually a nice wheel for it's size. Mitsubishi did this on the TF035 but also the TD06 wheels. The other stuff I believe are Mamba/China knockoffs but the design is modern.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Yep, but last time I checked they were 2.5" for the intake adapter. So looks like they bumped it to 3"........very nice find Mac. I must have it:D
The compressor inlet will have to be port matched from other pics I've seen, no big deal though since there is a lot of meat there on the compressor cover.

Update:

Finally got the engine and transmission separated and off the hoist. What an ordeal with the engine hoist and engine stand. The stand wouldn't slide under the hoist due to the wide stand legs so I had to flip the legs on the engine stand and pull the front leg completely off and make a tripod so it would sit directly under the hoist. Then I removed the hoist and put the front engine stand legs back on. Whew. The engine is not balanced due to the alternator, water pump, A/C compressor still on and the turbo removed so I may get a 50 lb bag of salt and secure the legs. The transmission coming off the engine was a trick too because of the load shift but my little tranny jack worked pretty good and it's doubling as a transmission stand for now. I'm looking at engine stands with transmission adapters so I can rebuild the transmission on the stand instead. I'm buying another one of those heavy duty plastic double-deck carts for tools and holding some of the engine parts.

I spent some time cleaning up the garage since I was going insane with the mess. The entire trick to all this stuff is having the right tools and being organized and taking good notes. Why did I ever pull the engine.....lol? I could have dropped the sub-frame and yanked the transmission with nothing but a car jack holding the engine block and my little tranny jack.

Pics of the engine and transmission at home waiting for teardown.

 

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Nice, I love this progress and am following it every step of the way


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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks. I'll try to have more pictures at this point. I'll be ordering up all the engine upgrades shortly from 2J along with some King Bearings for the mains and the RS bearings for the rods. Then the new CVT get's ordered with the CVT upgrade parts and all that good stuff. I'm trying to source a good shop to rebuild the head and hot-tank the block and maybe de-glaze the bores. I'll also take pics of all the engine & transmission tools I'll be buying to support the build. Thanks for following along, keeps me motivated.
 

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Why ? Because you are gonna do more work to make it awesome !!!

So that 3" inlet. Worth the $50 plus machine work ? Prolly not. I know the Injen CAI/SRI are restricted pretty well to adapt down to that skinny inlet size.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Mac,

Thanks, I try to make it entertaining....lol.

The Mamba intake might be worthwhile. All the little things add up. I'll have to weld in a 45* 3" elbow then cutoff that little neck down in the Injen and go from there.
I know ARF ran a full 3" intake pipe but he had to re-scale the MAF. He had a pretty good ECUTek tuner that re-scaled his MAF for the 3" intake pipe plus bumped his fuel pressure up too.
I'll have to hit him up and see who he was.
 

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I just swapped my CAI to a SRI and I saw that neck down and was thinking there has to be a less restricting way. Combined with the Injen Piping being slightly better than GTM. I think we ca retune and get more power.

Its fun to clean things up. Free power.

I asked my tuner about scaling since he maxed my MAF out. He said we should use a larger pipe and new MAF scaled accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I just swapped my CAI to a SRI and I saw that neck down and was thinking there has to be a less restricting way. Combined with the Injen Piping being slightly better than GTM. I think we ca retune and get more power.

Its fun to clean things up. Free power.

I asked my tuner about scaling since he maxed my MAF out. He said we should use a larger pipe and new MAF scaled accordingly.
You gotta let me know when you do it so I can review your datalogs. I need to find a competent ECUTek tuner, I can't stand not having control over the ECM...lol.

Good luck pboglio, you're my favourite poster here. Really look forward to seeing how your project turns out.
Thanks, glad you are getting a kick out of this thread. Build threads have always been my favorite mainly because of the amount of detail and depth that they cover. Basically it should cover everything from engine, transmission, turbo, tuning, suspension, braking, electrical, & some restoration.

This coming weekend I'll do a cylinder leakdown test to show the pressure sealing condition of the engine. I'll then remove the water pump, alternator, A/C compressor pump, and timing chain/cover. The cylinder head removal will be the following weekend and I'll show how bad the intake valves get gunked up and the cylinder bore condition. Stay tuned.
 

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I want to see those valves !!!
 

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I want to see those valves !!!
You gotta let me know when you do it so I can review your datalogs. I need to find a competent ECUTek tuner, I can't stand not having control over the ECM...lol.



Thanks, glad you are getting a kick out of this thread. Build threads have always been my favorite mainly because of the amount of detail and depth that they cover. Basically it should cover everything from engine, transmission, turbo, tuning, suspension, braking, electrical, & some restoration.

This coming weekend I'll do a cylinder leakdown test to show the pressure sealing condition of the engine. I'll then remove the water pump, alternator, A/C compressor pump, and timing chain/cover. The cylinder head removal will be the following weekend and I'll show how bad the intake valves get gunked up and the cylinder bore condition. Stay tuned.
Can't wait pal. This I'm extremely looking forward to. Will be interesting to see the build quality and craftsmanship Nissan put into it. Especially would like to see the carbon build up. Let us know what maintenance schedule you follow, oils you use, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Let the CVT teardown begin.

I was debating a strategy to tear-down this big sucker and what I intend is to support the CVT Center housing on the engine hoist, as can be seen in the attached pic. This'll allow me to slide a pushcart (right of pic) under the transmission sitting up on the hoist legs with a drip pan as well. The CVT construction is based on (3) case housing stacks: Bell housing, Center housing, Outer Housing. The engine hoist is holding the Center housing using an M8 bolt which is plenty for this weight. The sump pan will come off first as the valve body must be removed first before anything, by jacking the hoist high in the air, then the bell housing, and then the outer housing.

The hoist is a little bulky but I'll only need it until the initial stages while I strip components off the transmission, then it'll be light enough to man handle. The idea is to strip the transmission down to the pulley primary and secondary pulley sub-assemblies while I wait until I receive my special remove tools for compressing the spring loaded pulley assemblies. So I'm killing time a bit organizing the garage, ordering up storage shelves for parts inventory, cleaning tools, and so on.

Parts ordering won't happen until the entire transmission tear-down is complete on the dead CVT. I'm not in a super hurry and the idea is to do the dead simple upgrades on the brand new CVT first (i.e. roller caged bearings, pulley slider ball-to-pin conversion, Sonnax oil pressure regulator valve upgrade, etc.). I'm going to tear-down the valve-body for you inquisitive folks a bit later to do some backward engineering, but it'll be on my failed valve-body from 4 months back, this one is my backup valve-body since it's nearly brand new. IF.......and that's a big IF......I can figure out the method of increasing the primary pulley pressure thru a simple mechanical valve-body modification without freaking out the TCM computer, it'll happen.

I'm also still looking into the pulley surface hardening. As you guys may know, my pulleys were EXTREMELY worn down so I want to avoid this in the future, surface hardening may help. Also, I'm debating the hybrid 30-10 (F7) & 30-12 (F6) Bosch belt concept I came up with but I will step thru what is possible and what isn't. The idea is ANY upgrade is going to improve durability. The more difficult upgrades may require some additional engineering effort. As I've stated repeatedly, the CVT belt is beyond ANYTHING the aftermarket can hope to replicate. I will simply be using what Bosch currently offers and attempt a hybrid belt that will hopefully push RELIABLE torque to 400 N-m. I'm spending $700 on a CVT belt to attempt it and it may not even fit correctly but we'll see how it goes and I'm crazy like that.

Again, the main idea is to bump the torque capability upwards but also with OEM or better reliability, but my goals are realistic. There won't be talk of anything beyond 400 N-m but that is PLENTY to break the 300 w.h.p. barrier. If you want 400 w.h.p. then you won't see it in this thread. You bought the wrong car and need to step to an RS 6spd or something else. This is a daily driver and that number is beyond the Jatco CVT.

I should have some good pics over the weekend and hoping to have most of the guts on the table for review but it might take me this and next weekend. Stay tuned.

Cheers.

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