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Discussion Starter · #542 ·
Will do, might have use for it.

So here is the CVT back apart. Primary pulley shaft is exposed. This is the reverse clutch pack, still need to swap out to the improved Raybestos clutches but for now that is what it looks like. That splined shaft inside is where the forward clutch drum reinforcement in the 2nd pic has to reside but there is no room for it currently. The NeWay 80* carbide cutter has (5) blades which can be seen in the pictures. I'm using a 5.5mm dia. mandrel designed for an intake/exhaust valve guide as that is what this tool is designed for. I need to 3D print a stepped sleeve that will accept the 5.5mm ID mandrel and also a .670" OD/1.185" OD to fit in the spline bore. This'll center up the cutter and stabilize it as I cut. Adding grease or some tissue paper I can tighten up the fitment so it's dead centered. Tried a few light cuts without it and the (5) bladed carbide cutter cuts thru that steel with ease. It's somewhat self centering but for this operation I have little room for error with probably +/-.003" being allowable for concentricity. To save time I'm cutting it in place and using rags/tape to catch and shavings and a vacuum. It's all get cleaned with a wire brushed and solvent before final assembly. To get to this point was about 2 hrs to teardown to this level but probably I could rip the entire CVT down in about 3-4 hrs not counting the pulley dis-assembly which is time consuming. Anyway, this is that machining operation that I've been going on about for awhile now.

For now I have to wait to 3D print that cutter mandrel guide & then order up new internal parts from Nissan as I mentioned earlier. Also need to order up some AMSOIL CVT fluid so I can soak the clutch packs overnight to prep them for install. I'm thinking 2 weeks waiting on parts and I should have the transmission buttoned back up. The torque converter input o-ring in the JF011E Master rebuid kit is getting tossed and a high quality Viton 75 duro seal will replace it, this being a highly critical seal mating to the torque converter. If I ever rebuild another transmission I'll probably Vapor Hone the aluminum cases like I did with my engine block, for now I'm leaving it as is since it would add more time to this build.


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Hi Everyone,
We've got the pulleys back now all polished with 320 grit on a lathe.
I went to put the pulleys back together when I discovered the thread of the retainer nut on secondary pulley was damaged. After alot of ringing around I found Automatic Trans-wreck near Brisbane who are absolutely fantastic to deal with. Bruce not only found me the nut but also the original sealing ring in very good conditon.
I have been putting the pulleys back together again to find out the secondary pulley retainer bracket keeps cross threading the bolts and it looks damaged. I am going to replace it with the one from the other secondary pulley. I have tried my 3 jaw puller to remove the bearing so I can access the bracket but I can't get under it. The bearing splitters I have are also too big. Does anyone have any ideas how to get this seperated please ?
Also I have attached some pictures of the pulley housing, it has a lot of scratches/gouging where the bearings sit. I'm wondering if it is still ok to use like this ?
Thanks in advance and have a great weekend everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #544 ·
Hi Everyone,
We've got the pulleys back now all polished with 320 grit on a lathe.
I went to put the pulleys back together when I discovered the thread of the retainer nut on secondary pulley was damaged. After alot of ringing around I found Automatic Trans-wreck near Brisbane who are absolutely fantastic to deal with. Bruce not only found me the nut but also the original sealing ring in very good conditon.
I have been putting the pulleys back together again to find out the secondary pulley retainer bracket keeps cross threading the bolts and it looks damaged. I am going to replace it with the one from the other secondary pulley. I have tried my 3 jaw puller to remove the bearing so I can access the bracket but I can't get under it. The bearing splitters I have are also too big. Does anyone have any ideas how to get this seperated please ?
Also I have attached some pictures of the pulley housing, it has a lot of scratches/gouging where the bearings sit. I'm wondering if it is still ok to use like this ?
Thanks in advance and have a great weekend everyone.
Yeah, that sucks it was cross threaded. That stuff isn't too hard to find from a salvage yard, you got lucky though. The sealing ring(s) come in the rebuild kit but if you want to reuse that original ring it's not a big deal. If you are talking about the bearing facing the pulley case (ie. smaller case), then I would take a dremel and cut the bearing outer cage off. Then take the roller bearings out and you will have access to pull on the inner bearing race. This is how I did it but there are now some fancy pullers that can pull on the inner cage between the bearing balls. There isn't enough space in behind the bearing either for the TJ-1 or split bearing pullers. For most rebuilds these end bearings wouldn't have to be touched but a high mileage pulley set yeah it's a smart move to replace them. Again, Nissan have these bearings for $15 but aftermarket they tend to be pricey, these are all over the web though there are a lot of Chinese knockoffs. Sonnax now carry the (4) Primary/Secondary pulley bearings as a complete set so I recommend that to anyone. Lots of options here.

The pulley brackets you want to be careful you put them back in the right orientation as it's easy to flip them over and get them wrong. They will look wrong but just follow the rebuild manual. I put a paint dot on the top-side and double confirm with the install manual cause if you get that wrong the bearing has to come back off which typically is then a throw away.

You're showing the pulley case in those pics. The scratches aren't a big deal unless they obstruct the bearing from sliding back in, I would test a bearing out of the box and see if it slips in. The caged roller bearing should slip into it without catching/binding. Might take some scothbrite and lightly knock down any burrs but it should be a snug fit. This will sound counter-intuitive but sometimes you will want to remove any oil/lubrication as the fit is so tight it'll block the bearing from slipping in. This was the situation fitting the pulley assembly back into the center case, the bearing didn't want any lubrication on the outer race/pocket. You'll see when you get to that point. Any other time like press fitting bearings onto the shaft then yes I use lubricant as you want to feel the bearing bottom out and if it doesn't you will be in big trouble as the cases won't fit back together properly. This is why I measure the distance from the end of the pulley shaft to the top of the bearing before I disassemble it. Then after press fitting I make sure I hit that same dimension. The oil lip seals I also had to lightly lubricate for press fitment otherwise it tears up the outer diameter. Some things to consider.
 
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Discussion Starter · #545 · (Edited)
Got the machining of the primary pulley shaft completed and I'll toss up some pics of everything once final assembly starts.

Ordered from Nissan the final batch of new internal CVT components to finish the build. The planetary carrier/ring gear/snap rings/seal rings/bolts. Lot's of these parts were so cheap I just ordered stuff even if I wasn't sure. I typically don't reuse small diameter bolts and simply upgrade them or buy factory new bolts. Most of the stuff from the Altima 2.5 CVT will fit except the reverse clutch piston for some odd reason. The differential is not the same due to AWD and these are not available but typically don't wear if at all except the smaller bearings.

For the stuff that is highly stressed inside the transmission the Altima parts are a very inexpensive option & the latest factory improvements/updates are utilized. The other thing is that Nissan also offer "most" of the parts that would come in the rebuild kits which can run nearly $500 and are mostly seals, snap rings, gaskets, etc. What they don't offer those parts can be purchased seperately such as the SAP valvebody rebuild kit, pulley gap rings, etc. The most important parts are the Freudenberg Nok teflon piston gap rings and the oil lip seals......these are available thru Nissan. The pulley piston gap rings aren't available thru Nissan but Cobra Transmission have them for like $15 ea. The other smaller kit's from SAP include a valvebody rebuild kit, oil pump seal kit, piston gap rings, etc. The clutch packs I buy directly from Raybestos in a kit, also the sump filter & beehive filter. SAP also offer a nice forward clutch bonded piston set (2 piece) with a Hi-performance blue option that is an upgrade, the reverse clutch piston for the JF011E won't fit our CVT which comes in the (3 piece) set so money is saved buying the (2-piece) kit for the Juke's. The Altima can utilize the (3 piece kit).

Thus I could probably piece together a CVT rebuild kit without any wasted kit parts and still be significantly cheaper than what the Master/Banner rebuild kit's offer. I'm working on putting together a list of this stuff as a resource at some point once I'm finished with the project. But generally there is a lot of support/parts availability for our JF011E CVT transmission.
 

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The Monster build.

I hope she can roll out of the garage after all the time spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #547 ·
Definitely a monster build...lol. Should have been a 2 year build but will take over 4 years. Most guys probably would have parted out by now or would've just swapped in a replacement CVT and been done with it. The money I could have saved doing that instead. But yeah the goal is to see it running and have fun with it.
 
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If I did all that work. It would blow up on the first 0-60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #549 ·
Definitely a possibility. Hoping some changes in driving habits prevent that plus some torque limiting in 1st gear & 6th /pulley ratio where the CVT is weak and the revised boost mapping. Going to take a holistic approach of internal upgrades/maintenance/cooling/driving habits/tuning to make it last.
 
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