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Discussion Starter · #481 · (Edited)
Here's a suggestion. You can order SKF 33206/Q for $55.58 from Motionindustries.com. That is a 30/62/25mm bearing and needs slight modification. The other bearing is direct fitment SKF 32206 for $29.30 on Amazon.com which is the 30/62/21.25mm bearing, you can reuse your existing shim. Misumi..is another good source for bearings.

That 25mm bearing you could easily sand it down to the exact height of the existing bearing + shim in 30 minutes to within +/-.0005” no problem with some 180 to 400 grit sandpaper.

Those bearings are both in stock. Good luck.
 

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Thank you, I have tried calling 123 bearing, and they never call back and it says no one available at this time.
If I can't find anything else I may have to do that.
.014 would be alot of sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #483 ·
I've never used 123 bearing myself. Mostly Misumi, McMaster, Motionindustries, or Sonnax who only sell original bearings from US or Japanese suppliers such as Timken, SKF, Koyo, NSK, or NTF.

Those P/N for the bearings you supplied only come up on searches from Chinese companies. They might have only been available specifically for Jatco and thus not a standard P/N they would offer to the public. WIT shows them but they are pre-owned/used bearings. Not saying a Chinese bearing won't work.......but it's your gamble when legitimate standard bearings are available with slight modification.

A belt sander could take that material down very quickly and final hand precision finishing on a piece of flat glass with 180-320 grit. Could be done in 30 min. Machine shop could also do it but they'd charge you for basically doing the same thing. Your call.
 

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So I finally today got those bearings, the German made amazon one is a perfect match dimension wise, I got a Timken from 123 for the other one that is the same spec as you mentioned. Made in India. The advertised price was around $25. good deal? NO! Shipping got it almost up to 50.
So the next dilemma, is the thick by .020 Timken, that is my old one plus the .06 shim is .02 less than the new Timken. The counter bore for the race in the case has only about .070 from bottom of the counter bore to the case casting, I'll have to check it better later. Now the new Timken has the cage protruding out around .040 from the surface of that race that will bottom out in the counter bore.
So my plan is to also sand a small amount off the cage and nothing off the race, and take everything off the other race (inner race) that has the rollers and cage. What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #485 ·
Can you take pictures of the bearing and transmission case, I can't tell without looking at that?
The bearing inner race flange is going to get pretty thin if you remove .080" from it.
 

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I'll do a photo at some time. Too many projects lately. I spent some time checking some dimensions the best I could. The bearing counter bores in relation to the case split surfaces. The dimension so far matches the same as the length of the shaft. So there was little to none preload on those bearings. How about your trans, did you do a preload on that transfer gear shaft and the differential bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
I didn't change shims and bearings were identical replacements measuring the same as before, so preload is going to be close if not identical to the factory specs. To check the preloads I'd have to put solder in place of the shim and it's not high on my priority of things to complete for that trans at the moment. Don't worry about the pics as long as you know what you are doing I'm sure it'll be fine.
 

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Yeah haven't done pics yet. So after some fooling around checks and rechecks. I found out the shaft with original bearings is the same dimension as the space in the case. That is no preload. I know there should be some. I do not have a good way to check the large differential carrier and ring gear assembly length. All I have to check my case is dial calipers since I don't have a 4 inch rod for depth mic. Its way more accurate than that ATSG book shows to check it. So I'm wondering if I should add .002 or so more thickness to the bearing? I sure don't want to jack the case too large for the other shaft / carrier.
Maybe best to keep the size as what came out, I need to get this project done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #489 · (Edited)
Brand new OEM Gen1 CVT are out of production for the Juke as we now know.
Reman are available but I have zero info on what they actually include but I won't install one without a teardown/rebuild.

The Altima 2007-2012 CVT transmission which is technically the CVT2 architecture for what I'm about to describe is mostly compatible with the Juke Gen 1 transmission in terms of internal components. I've already proven this by retrofitting a few of those refurb CVT2 parts into my Juke CVT rebuild/upgrade......they fit without modification.
These transmission parts are kind of spread across the Jeep, Mitsubishi, Altima, & Juke as they share the same CVT2 architecture and haven't changed much
from 2007 thru 2014 if at all when I did a detailed inspection analysis but aside from date codes the differences were extremely minor.

The following CVT parts are available brand new from Nissan for the JF011E:

Primary pulley variator) (2007-2012 Altima) (31210-1XF0B): $349.58
Secondary Pulley variator (2007-2012 Altima) (31247-1XZ0A): $387.16
Bosch 901083/901066 pushbelt (2007-2012 Altima) (31240-1XF0B): $176.78
Valvebody (Juke 2010-2014) (31705-1XZ2C): $798.02
New oil pump (Juke +2010) (Jatco # JF011-29-7): $306
Torque Converter: $1330
etc.....etc....
Putting this into perspective, buying the CVT pushbelt from Nissan vs. Bosch dealers/distributors would save me $700 vs. buying it aftermarket ($177 vs $857) and reduce the cost of a potential rebuild price by a huge amount. This is really a big deal as prices on everything have gone thru the roof and parts availability hasn't gotten any better for these transmission. The torque converter are available from CVC reman to factory new condition for $136 vs. $1330 new from Nissan. That makes the cost of a rebuild extremely reasonable again with much lower risk than using all used parts.

I'll have to confirm by trying to order the pulley sets as I might actually try them out in the future.

Summarizing, it would be possible to basically piece together an effectively new transmission + heavily upgraded for a moderate amount of money.
I put some numbers together for what rebuild/upgrade would cost and it's now looking reasonable actually.


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Discussion Starter · #490 · (Edited)
Next,

Here is the rest of the JF011E clutch assembly available new as well.
These are some of the most critical parts inside a the CVT that I had previous difficulty sourcing new.
But they were available the entire time from the 2007-2012 Altima 2.5L engine.



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Discussion Starter · #491 ·
Finally,

Here is the CVT oil pump and front cover reactor plate & components:
Typically this pump will go for $300 but here it is for $87 from the Nissan dealer.
The aftermarket is something else that's for sure.


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So let me see if I get this right. Nissan (Jatco) no longer makes the JF011E. But most of the (or very similar) internal parts are available for other vehicles as individual parts. So while a new transmission for the Juke is not an option, anyone could reman their old one if they know the parts to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #493 ·
So let me see if I get this right. Nissan (Jatco) no longer makes the JF011E. But most of the (or very similar) internal parts are available for other vehicles as individual parts. So while a new transmission for the Juke is not an option, anyone could reman their old one if they know the parts to replace.
Yes, what you said is technically correct.

There are some tricks & pitfalls using an Altima 2.5L CVT transmission component but nothing needing modification, just the right parts selection from a few sources both OEM and aftermarket. I'd figure most guys needing a rebuild could probably do it for around $3,700 w/tax with nearly every single internal part being replaced (except transfer gear & differential) & aftermarket part used.
Sadly the days of being able to buy a brand spanking new CVT for $1850 are long gone history at this point never to be seen again. Since many of the parts are brand new and the teflon gap rings, o-rings, seals, etc. are also available OE then that also saves in not needing an expensive aftermarket Master Rebuild kit costing upwards of $480. Just selecting a reman torque converter maybe possible to do it for $2,400 without much/any risk to reliability.

Couple of ways to skin that cat but most if not all internal components are new OE Nissan or high quality aftermarket (i.e. Nissan/Jatco, Raybestos, Sonnax, Freudenberg-Nok, Timken, Koyo, etc.).
How this all compares to the Nissan reman JF011E CVT (310CM-3TX0CRE) is unkown. Couple of folks have had good luck, others have had issues/failures after the warranty work.
I was told the internals are all new on the reman units, but that doesn't explain the Altima reman units failing during warranty work which happened often.
 
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