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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
Every application is different. Hydraulic seals have lots of different designs. The CVT valvebody pistons don't even have seals, the wall clearances are so tight it keeps the leakage minimal.

Some designs are efficient, some not. The CVT cannot afford to have any internal leaks beyond what the design intends. The hydraulic pump is about the size of your fist and is just big enough to get the job done. Start adding extra leaks and the pulley start slipping, clutches start slipping, and the valve-body can't control pressures correctly.

It gets back to what works. The JF011E is newer than your transmission. The original Freudenberg-NOK gap rings are without exception all double-overlap design. The Transtar Kit had the correct replacements EXCEPT the piston gap rings, which I suspect were knock-offs but they were the single-overlap design and just didn't plain work. The newer kits may have these replaced with original Freudenberg-NOK components. COBRA transmission now have these double-overlap piston gap rings available separately. The kits are constantly changing with different suppliers for each component that I could not possibly track what they are substituting or not. I believe the newer kits are improved but that is a guess. The valvebody rebuild kit was 100% complete and high quality. I still use Nissan/Jatco oil pan viton coated gaskets as none of the kit gaskets are up to the same quality. Some of the o-rings are questionable and I replaced them where I felt is was a risk.
 
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Finally got the correct size rubber tip to check the variator piston seals, I added some fluid to them. Both now seal real good. What did you do to tighten the nuts ? I would like to finger or close to finger tight and mark it then turn it with the impact wrench. How much? There is no good way to hold these with out some fancy fixture. I saw mention of 185 ft lbs, so from finger tight how much to turn to get that?
I know variables ! It would be a difficult thing to measure stretch on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #463 ·
I marked it before I removed the nut. Then I impacted it back to the same mark. It’s going to be about 15-30 deg rotation. Then you peen the lock nut which is the important final step.
 

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The one on the primary does not have the lock flange or hub integral with the nut like the secondary on mine. So you are saying it is 15 to 30 degrees after contacting the surface to the tight position?
It was the plan to mark it, but I forgot. The secondary has the mark where it was dimpled into the slot, to lock it, so that is the easy one.
Thank you for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #465 ·
This is what I would do. I would lube the nut with blue loctite firstly or CVT oil if you can peen the nut on a locking dimple. Then screw the nut until hand tight, mark nut and shaft as the start point. Then set a torque wrench at something you can hold the pulley against like 45 lb-ft. Torque it and Measure that rotation angle. Now take 185 lb ft and divide 45 lbft. That value multiplied by the rotation angle at 45 lbft is the final angle. Mark that angle as the final target. Use the impact to now hit that angle. Alternately, I also used my impact gun max rating at 90 psi of 450 lb-ft, then backed off the air supply to 35-40 psi to basically hit something close to 180-200 lb-ft. This’ll act as a sort of torque wrench and limit the over torque. This only works if you know exactly the impact guns rating at “x” pressure.

Using those techniques you aren’t going to be far off I guarantee.
 

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Did you use any loctite on yours? No one seems to recommend it on the various videos. Your tightening idea sounds good. I also thought of a 150 ft lb torque stick and doing the angle turn like you mention.
It looks like the primary nut thread is 30mm x 1mm, pretty fine thread, and looking at various charts that don't have it, I think it was for 24mm some torques into the 400 to 500 ft lb range and higher.
My air is 150 psi, used harbor freight 1/2 inch impact earth quake to loosen the nuts on the lowest setting and it didn't take too many hits to loosen them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #467 ·
If you know the exact torque and can apply it correctly, I’d agree with you, but it seems your not sure. I was sure, and I still used blue loctite on every critical bolt joint. Most guys hit that nut with an impact and don’t give it much thought cause that particular nut isn’t a big deal, otherwise there would be a locking dimple on it. I wouldn’t over think it but when in doubt use blue loctite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 · (Edited)
OK,

The picture shows the Primary pulley nut with the start point and final turn angle in "black". Whatever that measures in degrees is about 400-450 lb-ft actually based on my notes, that is all the torque my impact gun could put out. I know this because my gun just barely removed it with 450 lb-ft on reverse, so logic applies here. I didn't note it, but I did use blue loctite on the nut. I'm saying this because if you try and put 185 lb-ft on that nut there is a solid chance it will back-out on you. I don't even recall the transmission rebuild manuals calling out a torque value for this nut. Even if they did, I used a bolt torque chart to double confirm what torque should be used.

Use this bolt tightening chart to confirm what I'm saying according to the threaded dia, thread pitch, and material. I don't remember the nut diameter but it's possible it could take as high as 650 lb-ft but use some common sense. I would use grade 8 and fine pitch thread for the charts.


Pulley Surface finish:

Regarding the entire pulley surface finish debate, my post #134 goes into extreme detail about the surface finish. I ended up going with a 320 grit circular/circumferential surface finish although in the post I mentioned a cross-hatch finish I ended up changing that.





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Okay installed the nut on the secondary first, since it has the dimple to punch into the key slot on the shaft. Finger tight, one quick impact trigger pull, with the impact set at the lowest setting (there are 3 settings) that made the nut tighten past the slot by a small amount, that did not seem very tight so I held longer the next time and then some extra blips to the point the impact pretty much limited out, that turned the nut about 10 degrees past the key slot that it was originally located at. So on the primary I did a quick clean and blue permatex medium thread lock small amount in the nut threads and did about the same as I did with the secondary. I'm calling it good. Huge thanks for your input, I probably didn't need the thread lock but the peace of mind is nice too. A wild guess of applied torque 250 to 300 ft lbs if that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
Getting back onto the CVT build but here is a bit of a recap.

Been a little bit slow as I concentrate on the engine build and the CVT has been sitting for quite a while now to say the least. Once I get my cylinder head installed I'll be getting back to the CVT build. As I had more ideas and researched I found better ways to improve the JF011E and I sort of knew I might have to tear the CVT back down again, which is where I'm at today. To recap: I have to replace the previously rebuilt used CVT oil pump with a brand new Jatco CVT oil pump with an upgraded Sonnax oil flow relief valve. The custom reinforced/upgraded forward clutch drum is getting installed, primary pulley shaft is getting some custom machining/clearancing, & upgraded Raybestos high-energy forward clutches thrown in for good measure. That's about it including all of the other small upgrades I previously mention in this thread. Figuring some time in December I can get all of that wrapped up.

I get asked what is actually upgraded and why is it now stronger? I provided the laundry list of upgrades previously but what I can say is that the CVT typically fail from lack of oil pressure and anything that affects that will kill the CVT over a period of time. So the upgrades are all focused on maintaining correct oil pump pressures to keep the belt happy. Every build is different. If you slam this CVT with 300 lb-ft of torque it'll die fairly quickly no matter what upgrades are done. For what I'm doing it's designed to survive 257 lb-ft for about 100,000 miles and possibly longer. The engine tuning is going to be a critical aspect but it's designed to make maximum use of this lower torque level. So key aspects are: Mechanical upgrades, better oil lubrication/supply, cooling, and filtration.

Towards the end of next year I'll focus heavily on the cooling upgrade portion. I go into detail in this thread about CVT cooling and what my plans are. These cars are heavily under-cooled from the factory stock. CVT are actually very efficient at part loads but at full load they are much less efficient than even automatic transmissions. My early dyno pulls from 2012 showed about a 23-25% loss at full power compared to 15% for a typical AWD 6-spd car. I'll be putting out an extra +75-100 h.p. with all of the engine mods so CVT cooling definitely needs to be addressed.

So the project is still moving along slowly but I'm coming into the final stretches.
 
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