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Discussion Starter #401
Yes, about 6-9 months away before I know what I have. Rebuilding a new CVT transmission is fun. Rebuilding a beat up/destroyed & corroded transmission isn't too much fun. It can be done but chances of it lasting are slim. The valvebody is key and it has to be new or refurbed, then the CVT has a chance of keeping the belt alive.
 

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Discussion Starter #402 (Edited)
Been thinking about actual track driving a CVT and some comments I've heard from auto journalist about why the CVT sucks so bad on the track. We know the cooling problem but I believe it's more than that.

I've thought long and hard about this as it only happens on heavy throttle input and high g-load cornering. Straight acceleration the CVT doesn't usually have a problem. My theory is that the CVT oil pump is starving under heavy side g-load cornering OR the g-sensor is sensing high cornering and unlocking the converter. This might explain the whining sound that occurs every time I'm hard on the throttle in a high-g corner but coasting thru a corner there isn't a problem. The newer CVT oil pump pan filters have a sort of large & long angled square pickup opening. I never noticed much of an improvement running it but it's definitely a factory upgrade and was done for better oil pickup. Clearly they were trying to improve oil pickup during acceleration. The question is did they ever consider high g-cornering oil starvation?

It might be possible that a heavily baffled CVT oil pan could solve the CVT performance problem on an auto-x or road course. The alternative or addition might be a CVT oil pump pickup similar to an engine oil pump which is simply tack welded to the CVT oil pan filter itself. The pickup could easily be machined out of steel. The oil pan being non-baffled is probably the bigger problem as the oil simply rolls right up into the transmission case past the valvebody.

It'd be very interesting to see something like this prototyped at some point. The Juke corners so well but getting on the throttle mid-corner is so frustrating during spirited driving and this is one of my big complaint about the CVT. Anyway, some ideas to throw out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #403 (Edited)
Question came up as to if the 901083 belt is improved over the 901066 belt or not.

Not directly related but the 901074 improvements are published by Bosch and they are well known and documented. That belt is for the JF016 transmission in the Gen2 Juke but some technical changes may still apply to the newer 901083 belt used in the JF011E Gen1 Juke. The 901083 is actually newer model number belt but an older mechanical design than the 901074. My theory is that a mfg. processing improvement was made over the older 901066 pushbelt found in the early Juke CVT AWD transmissions.

The improvements for the 901074 which I believe were also carried to the 901083 were in "deburring" the belts and "heat treatment". This might explain why I couldn't visually detect a physical difference between my 901066 and the newer 901083, even though they revised the numbers. If I were to bet I'd say Bosch did the same deburr and heat treat process on the 901083 as they are on now doing on the 901074. This is a "thermal" deburr process vs. stone deburring supposedly improving crack propagation. The 2nd process change is the entire ring pack are nitride hardened as a single assembly vs. individually. This eliminates risk of pre-stressing during final assembly of the belt. They mention this as improving durability and torque capacity.

My guess is that this this newer belt has more fatigue life or lasts longer before the belt snaps, which is what happens at high mileage.

Anyhow, keep on boosting.
 

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So if I ordered the newest CVT I can get for the 2011-2014 AWD Nismo lets say that should have Belt 901074 or 901083?? Or does the 901083 only come in the newer model CVTs?? Oh and I apriciacte your Patients and information totally.. It's just that I'm planning on ordering brand new from Nissan parts desk and want to know what to ask for?? And how to make sure I'm getting the right CVT with right belt in it.. It would be nice to know what I'm talking about and what to look out for... Anyway thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #405 (Edited)
No. The 901083 is the update belt to the original 901066, just for the 2010-2014 mode only. That other PN only fits the +2015 Juke

Buy the new CVT from Nissan and just check the serial number or paper tag on the transmission, those have date stamps. Anything newer than 2018 is going to have the newer belt, maybe earlier. These transmissions break so much they won’t have anything that old in stock.

From there you can figure out getting it rebuilt or upgraded. I’ve mentioned before everything else will break first before the belt, so to really take advantage the entire transmission should be upgraded.

If the CVT gets upgraded then you will clearly see it anyway.
 

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No. The 901083 is the update belt to the original 901066, just for the 2010-2014 mode only. That other PN only fits the +2015 Juke

Buy the new CVT from Nissan and just check the serial number or paper tag on the transmission, those have date stamps. Anything newer than 2018 is going to have the newer belt, maybe earlier. These transmissions break so much they won’t have anything that old in stock.

From there you can figure out getting it rebuilt or upgraded. I’ve mentioned before everything else will break first before the belt, so to really take advantage the entire transmission should be upgraded.

If the CVT gets upgraded then you will clearly see it anyway.
Thanks a lot for all your info and help..
 

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Discussion Starter #407
Here is a bit of my last datalog before the transmission failed.

I'm running in 1st gear (M1 manual mode) and it's showing 281 N-m (207 lb-ft). This is actually with my boost turned down a bit since the CVT was already worn out at this point. The pulley pressure is 4.12 Mpa while the oil pump is right at 4.52 Mpa. Now the oil pump maxxes out at 5.5 Mpa and that is actually at HIGHER rpms where it's spinning faster. At 3100 rpms the pump pressure available is probably a lot lower than 5.5 Mpa.

If I bump the torque to something like 343 N-m (252 lb-ft), then the belt is going to start having problems above that point because the pump pressure isn't increasing with torque anymore. Keep in mind the pressure needs to increase about 10-15% on the upshift to keep the belt clamped firmly, so that has to get added as well.

The 2nd picture is an upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear (M2-M3 manual mode). I'm running about 300 N-m (221 lb-ft) and the pump pressure has to increase from 3.6 Mpa to 4.3 Mpa keep the pressure/flow maximized for the upshift. So the pump still has some room to add pressure even if I increase the torque but I'm also at higher rpms on the upshift.

The pump pressure isn't "measured", only the pulley pressure is. On a worn out CVT that pump pressure might actually be a lot lower and so you might run out of "pulley" pressure a LOT faster than expected, even though it still looks good here. The pulley pressure IS measured but it depends on the pump pressure which isn't.

This is why you need to maintain the CVT and not add too much torque at lower rpms.


190101


190102
 

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Wow you are really all in. I don't even know what I'm looking at here.. I know nothing about Data Logging.. I have a custom built Desk top PC and no Laptop.. I'm going to buy a cheap laptop within the next 2 months so I can down load all ECUTEK software and hopefully have my Tuner walk me thru what he wants me to do.. The car is actually running great other than not being able to jump on it to much at low speeds, The only thing I would like to have done is Bump up my Rev shifting at 6200 RPMs in sport mode and set her to shift at 6800 RPM.. I'll be doing 3 to 4 drain and fills tomorrow, and then another 2 drain and fills 2/3 weeks later.. I need front brakes and I have a Busted Right front strut or bent spring so I have to fix all that all while paying bill's.. I'll have to little by little this.. I'm planning on getting BC Coil Overs all the way around sometime over the next year along with rims and tires, I'm gonna have to put in some OT at work, LOL.. But anyway once I get a laptop and all set up I may reach out to you so you can tell me what I'm looking at.. I work for Comcast and I'm a Resi Tech, I understand RF, FM noise, ICFR and all that kinda of stuff but I'm no mechanic just getting back into tinkering with cars and know nothing about tuning them.. Back when I used to work on cars it was the late 80's early 90's a lot has changed electronically since then.. Back then you changed out mechanical parts to make power and you didn't really have to play around with ECU's.. There were no laptops and if you wanted a stage 1, 2, or 3 tune you had to send your ECU out to a company to get it done and that was in the late 90's when I got out of messing with cars other than doing breaks, So I am very new to tuning cars and just learning about data logging it all looks so confusing but I'll learn it.. I'm teachable.. Anyway I appreciate your wealth of knowledge, I'll keep into..
 

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Discussion Starter #409 (Edited)
Yes, all in. Gotta use all the tools to mod a CVT Juke. Mostly knowing what to look for and what is normal or not normal, not always will codes get thrown if something isn't right.
Glad the car is running great, sounds like you got the maintenance figure out.

This is the CVTz50 software on my iphone. I don't have the header description showing here but the datalogs have the descriptions on the top of the datalog page. This'll tell you if the belt is slipping or the clutches, how much "torque" the engine is making, CVT oil temperatures, pulley pressures, etc. Being able to read that table tells you if the transmission is wearing out or if the CVT is holding the torque. This'll also give trouble codes for the CVT and ECM, plus can bump idle rpm speed and idle ignition timing plus some other useful stuff. Very nice and costs almost nothing. Go on their website and it gives a good explanation. The rev limiter increase will help.

Again, having the data is one thing but interpreting it is something else. If you are savvy you can tune, then adjust depending on how the CVT is liking things. It's just a different mindset than a 6spd. So this is one way to get ahead of any failures if you can see it coming it's definitely going to have symptoms.

Yeah, a laptop works too. Datalogging the engine with ECUTek is nice as well, gives a good idea what's goin on plus a rolling dyno to measure how good the car is putting the power down. I bought a cheap netbook for $250 with Windows 10 for flash tuning & logging on my EVO X. Worked great but the screen is a bit small. Overall the best way to go.

Keep in mind when reflashing you want to turn automatic Windows updates OFF, have a well charged computer battery and car battery, and turn off the internet as well. This'll reduce the likelyhood of bricking the ECM if it get's interrupted during a reflash. Also, be careful with automatic firmware updates on ECUTek. I avoid any firmware updates unless I positively have to, long story but it caused me some issues.
 

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I just got done doing 4 Drain and Fill's..
Mind you I did one with Reg NS2 like a week ago. So today on the first drain and fill instead of wasting any Amsoil on the first one, I picked up 5 Qt. of STP Synthetic CVT NS2 Cert fluid from Auto zone for like $46 with tax after discount, for first flush.. I figured if I'm gonna waste fluid, It will be the cheap shyt on the first.. Anyway went thru gears and went around the block twice in my neighborhood.. Came back and drain the cheap stuff, then dropped first 5 quarts of Amsoil, Repeated the process with shifter and little longer ride.. Came back and drained that, still had a little darkness to it but cleaner.. Dropped in second 5 quarts of Amsoil, went thru gears and took her for a longer ride making turns and giving it half gas pedal, shifting manually here, and came back drained that and it came out clean like new, and then filled it with the last 5 of the 15 quarts of Amsoil I bought on line.. Looks very much the same but a little thicker than regular NS2.. Took my friend home and got on it a little bit and she felt smoother and you could tell there was alot more Bite to her.. Thanks for advice, it was expensive but worth it.. Actually if you go with the club member account this stuff is cheaper than Nissan NS2 anyway.. I will be ordering another 15 quarts soon just to have.. I will be doing another 2 drain and fill's right before June and the hot months anyway to keep it clean and make sure it's all Amsoil in there..
 

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Discussion Starter #411
No problem. Yep, expensive but cheap insurance.

Give the AMSOIL time to work into the clutches. Typically, the clutches get soaked in the CVT oil and this is really what gives the "bite". Be patient with it but doing full flushes get's every bit of the new fluid in. It took a day or two for the AMSOIL to work into the torque converter clutch as well as the forward/reverse clutches. The torque converter usually traps about 3 qts. that can't be drained, so what you are doing is the right way. Never noticed the thicker consistency but I haven't tried a viscosity test.

If you haven't done it I would do the CVT cooler oil filter swap on the next drain/flush you do in the future, this is important to get the oil flow up thru the cooling & lubrication circuits. Now that your heavily modified the level of maintenance is going to be important to keep up.
 

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That's what I figured, with the Torque converter and the clutches.. Thats why I went on small rides at first and shifted the car my self.. Actually of the last ride home from dropping a friend off, I had a Nice 4 miles stretch where I put her in sport mode and blew through the gears al the way to 5th and was moving and then went back to normal and cruised the last 2 miles thru town and home.. Just wish sport would hold the shifts to more than 6200 RPM's, Would love to set the sport mode shifts to at 6600/6700RPM's, and I would be happy.. Tuner wanted to leave that alone because of torque and he was of the mindset that the car is still way faster without touching that anyway.. But I look into Bumping the Rev to at least 6500 over the summer. I'm about to hit my busy season at work and I will be barely driving this car soon. Way to tired to do anything or go anywhere after work, I feel Old Now.. I'm planning on saving over the summer for rims and tires.. Nothing crazy Just want 18's 8" Looks like I could go with a 245/40/18R on an 18'x 8" wide rim and I'm doing a 35 off set Rim instead of 45 and 50 and adding a 10mm 2J spacer and studs after the rims and tires are bought and paid for.. So I think I'm gonna do something like that, But I'm not going crazy on price I'm gonna go some what cheap on decent looking rims and get good tires at least.. I'm gonna start dressing her up now a little..
 

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For best aesthetic fitment, use a rear spacer 5mm larger than the front, so 5/10 or 10/15.

I have 18x8 35 offset with 235/45 and they are great. Enough sidewall shoulder to protect the wheel edge from any minor curb rash and you can see the tread edge a bit for a nice aggresive looking tire. Ends up with the same rolling diameter as oem so no speedometer issues (although the juke seems to have always reported 2 mph over actual speed for me, since day 1).
 

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I run 235 45R18 on a 8.5" rim and use 20mm front and 25mm rear spacers. I got the rims and tires from a friend for a steal otherwise I would have gone with the best offset built in to the rims without using spacers.


Which brings up the question. Since 5mm makes a difference. Having 4 rims the same size is crucial for me. Dont want a "staggered" set up so to speak. I guess using a 5mm spacer in the rear is not a big deal. The OEM studs long enough ?
 

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I may not even add the spacers if I can find the right wheel with a small of set.. I still have to save for the next 2/3 months anyway..
 

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I'm about to start on my CVT replacement/upgrade and figured I'd document the process in this thread. I'll layout my build plan which'll include a brand new CVT transmission replacement but also various bolt-on power mod upgrades. The list will change since I have to inspect the car. If items are worn, they'll get replaced at this point or just upgraded. This will also include a BOM for parts purchases and as many pics as possible. The CVT transmission teardown is going to direct me on where I "may" be upgrading the new CVT as there are several internal improvements to be made to increase the strength and reliability.

Goal:

Basic goal is to get the Juke AWD CVT to withstand more torque from the additional modifications I have planned. I'm realistic about the Juke CVT, it'll never be as reliable at torque levels that the 6spd RS cars are running, so the goals are going to be conservative. I could trade up to an RS 6spd, but I won't be doing that. I considered it but I'm already in another car payment and the time isn't right, plus I need an automatic for the daily. A stock CVT trans can hold 210 lb-ft @ wheels no problem for up to 75k miles and potentially longer if meticulously maintained and tuned correctly. Typically but not always a stock CVT will start slipping at the 245 lb-ft @ wheel level which isn't a good thing for CVT belt life. I suspect those with RS models may have higher torque slippage values due to differences in TCM tuning from the factory. The ECUTek flash tunes may also have some part to play but I can't verify that. Mine never slipped until the belt wear went critical due to mileage. The goal is a reliable 230- 245 lb-ft wheel torque level and it must hold trouble free for +50k miles. That is more than plenty for a daily driver.

I could pay Level10 to provide an upgraded CVT transmission, but that's not my plan. The (1) member (i.e. ARF) I know of who has completely upgraded the CVT seems to have found some reliability at elevated torque levels so it's possible. I'm going to attempt to tie-in as many of the CVT improvements as possible in a DIY project. ANY marginal improvement in reliability and torque capacity I'll take. I'll be utilizing as much of these "off-shelf" upgrades as possible. The valve-body may eventually get sent out for upgrade as well but I can always do that at a later date since it's a simple removal/install procedure on the car.

The Mamba 19T turbo, 2J Racing downpipe, High flow cat/Injen midpipe, 2J 255 LPH fuel pump, and an FMIC will get installed as well if I'm not pushed for time. There are so many parts getting removed for the CVT trans that the extra labor isn't much different. I'll also be replacing the upper & lower radiator support, & bumper crash beam due to light corrosion.

Backstory:

Back in March I started having drive-ability issues with my AWD CVT at 75k miles in terms of belt slippage and rpm hunting while driving. I had the basic bolt-on mods on my signature and was running these mods since about 2012. I'm not easy on my transmission but I also never launch it. After alot of diagnostic testing I ended up taking the risk and replacing just the CVT valve-body and switched to AMSOIL and this temporarily fixed most of these mechanical issues but a few remained. When I did it I almost knew right away I should have bought a new CVT for just another $1200 more, but it was done. Eventually the plan was to swap a new CVT anyway next year but this would buy me some time. Then at 80k miles I started getting bored at stock power levels and I decided the trans could take some upgrades, which probably wasn't the smartest idea. The additional torque going from a stock (the car was detuned at this point) 236 N-m to 320 N-m ended up being too much for my worn out transmission. It was running great for a couple days then it gave (1) massive slip during an awesome 3rd gear pull near 6000 rpms, at which point I decided to crank the boost back down. Well, 2 days later the CVT catastrophically failed while heading to work. There was no indication or slippage, just a roll into the throttle and then a "free" revving engine in all gears. I have had many transmission failures on modified cars and this is the nature of the beast. I kept my momentum up and maneuvered around a couple of cars and picked a nice spot to coast the Juke and it finally came to rest. I ended up calling a tow truck and had to make a quick decision on the side of the road to divert the tow truck to my house instead of the dealership. I had already priced out the CVT parts vs. Dealer installed and it was looking like $2500 vs. approx $4500. At my house the driver backed the flatbed up and perfectly rolled her into position neatly inside my (2) car garage. The Juke is now sitting about 20" up in the air on my QuickJack car lift with the front clip removed and the teardown process has begun.

Progress:

To start off, here is the Juke raised in the air 20" on the Quick Jack 7000SLX with wheel ramps as backup supports. The QuickJack is sitting on it's "safety-lockout bars" and not hydraulic pressure. The Lift is rated for 7,000 lbs so the 3,160 lb curb weight is hardly stressing the lift. The rating mostly pertains to the hydraulic unit as the frame itself can lift 21,000 lbs. Jack stands cannot be used as safety backups on this type of lift unless they are pre-loaded against the chassis, neither can crib blocks under the wheels. The risk of vehicle collapse is low but still there. I initially had 6" steel pedestal risers for the lift but it proved much too unstable to trust while wrenching on the car. I also had medium durometer "rubber" riser blocks but they were collapsing on the inside under the pressure load from the vehicle weight. I replaced them with solid pine wood 2"x4" to raise the high durometer "uni-body pinch-weld" polyurethane blocks enough to get correct vehicle & lift clearances. This solution is working great and the mounts are not flexing whatsoever. When the front wheels get removed the car will have wheels lying flat under the unibody to catch a potential collapse.

The other pics is my FMIC design with the Setrab CVT cooler/integrated fan. This'll go in place of the stock side mounted FMIC. I have the Nismo RS bumper grill insert illustrated to improve radiator cooling I'm going to lose with the FMIC. I may switch to the treadstone 22"x 6"x 3.5" core as an alternate as well to avoid having to cut/weld the Garrett core endtanks.

I've pulled the front clip and today I'm starting on the driveshaft/propeller shaft removal from the transfer case. I'll also be pulling the battery/intake/etc. to gain access to the (4) topside CVT bell housing bolts. The car has some corrosion so the "bottom-side" will be challenging. Next after that will be removing the right wheel, partial suspension, then drivers axle and transfer case.



WOW, you are all in is that dual fan set up for the CVT cooler?? Oh I also wanted to say that since I did those serval CVT Drain and fills and transferred over to Amsoil CVT fluid,. I have had a noticeable difference, Just did another drain and fill today to total the 5th drain and fill.. There should be nothing but Amsoil in her now.. And that belt is grabbing like a mother.. I just got on it hard today a few times and no slippage.. I can totally feel the difference.. I just need to get someone to tune the car to shift at 6500/6700 RPM in sport mode instead of 6000RPM and I'll be happy if that's possible.. I got to pick up a cheap laptop learn how to Data log and and get on the phone with my tuner, He said he didn't want to mess with the rev because of the torque it was making at the time, But I would like to see the car Rev out in 3rd 4th and 5th gear to at least 6500RPM's before it shifts to the next gear.. I'm going to wait 2 weeks grab a laptop, download all the ECUTEK stuff, start watching vids on how to data log and give him a call. And see if he can turn it up a little bit more..
 

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Discussion Starter #417
Yep, all in...is there any other way....lol. Glad the AMSOIL worked out. I know it was expensive but it definitely puts the power down.

The dual fan setup originally was for the CVT. I then did some number crunching and realized even that wouldn't have been enough cooling for my goals or track driving. From there I redesigned the CVT cooling system using a Laminova liquid cooler that bolts into the lower radiator hose location with some custom machined parts/adapters for the transmission. It'll also allow me to improve the oil cooler filter size/type to get better filtration as it includes a larger aftermarket oil filter housing.....win/win type deal. I show the Solidworks design in one of the later pages. This'll work better for things like track driving or high horsepower Jukes. Those small little coolers would work OK and don't get me wrong are great for the street, but with a 350 h.p. it wouldn't work for a track car. The Setrab dual fan setup is now reserved for the engine oil cooler which'll be another project but nothing too complex, gotta take baby steps.

I'm not 100% sure the sport mode upshift point can be altered in manual mode, honestly it's been 9 years since mine was re-tuned but let me know if your Tuner has any luck. The Sport Automatic and CVT normal mode, yes those rpm can be bumped to something like 7000 rpms. Talk with the tuner and see what he can do with the ECUTek. I bought a cheap $200-$300 laptop for tuning/datalogging & reflashing & it works pretty good for that kind of thing. I barely use it but just throw it in the back seat when I need to do a quick tune with the EVO or Juke.

Sounds like you are enjoying the heck out of the Juke.
 

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Yep, all in...is there any other way....lol. Glad the AMSOIL worked out. I know it was expensive but it definitely puts the power down.

The dual fan setup originally was for the CVT. I then did some number crunching and realized even that wouldn't have been enough cooling for my goals or track driving. From there I redesigned the CVT cooling system using a Laminova liquid cooler that bolts into the lower radiator hose location with some custom machined parts/adapters for the transmission. It'll also allow me to improve the oil cooler filter size/type to get better filtration as it includes a larger aftermarket oil filter housing.....win/win type deal. I show the Solidworks design in one of the later pages. This'll work better for things like track driving or high horsepower Jukes. Those small little coolers would work OK and don't get me wrong are great for the street, but with a 350 h.p. it wouldn't work for a track car. The Setrab dual fan setup is now reserved for the engine oil cooler which'll be another project but nothing too complex, gotta take baby steps.

I'm not 100% sure the sport mode upshift point can be altered in manual mode, honestly it's been 9 years since mine was re-tuned but let me know if your Tuner has any luck. The Sport Automatic and CVT normal mode, yes those rpm can be bumped to something like 7000 rpms. Talk with the tuner and see what he can do with the ECUTek. I bought a cheap $200-$300 laptop for tuning/datalogging & reflashing & it works pretty good for that kind of thing. I barely use it but just throw it in the back seat when I need to do a quick tune with the EVO or Juke.

Sounds like you are enjoying the heck out of the Juke.
Yeah she's pretty quick now, Like I said I only drive the car on weekends but when I get a chance to lay on it I do.. I think I'm gonna go with rims and tires, and a few more thing's to dress up the looks and call it a day, and maintain from there. I have come to the conclusion that I'm on the wrong platform for what I want.. I am definitely going to keep the car and continue to play make little up grades here and there. But I have another 1.5 years of payment's once I get the title, it's on to the next car.. Because I like AWD so much my next car will probably be a 2019 to 2021 low miles STI 6 speed manual this time. IDK.. Thats 2 years from now.. For now I got payments and I really like shocking people with the Juke.. And 1.5 to 2 years from now I may want a truck who knows?? LOL..
 

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Discussion Starter #419
That sounds like a smart plan. The Juke AWD/CVT isn't an STi or EVO, so taking it easy with the mods makes sense. Having said that, the Juke can be fun even with a lot less horsepower. Kind of a situation of being content with what you have vs. going for broke. Nothing less fun than being up on jack stands for a couple years. Been there, done that on several cars and it's mentally stressful and of course life goes by. If you don't get on it every second and just pick when you have fun with it, it'll definitely last longer. I don't want to say the CVT is junk, cause that's not exactly true either. But definitely the point of this thread is there is lots of room for improvement, which is what I aim to prove in the end.

I just got the title on my EVO X last month after 5 years of payments......that sucked badly since the payments were high. I planned buying that car for 3-4 years then I purchased it on a whim when they announced the end of production. The payments were fun the first 12 months, after that it was hell...lol. It's got 45k miles so it's plenty good for another 5-8 years easily once the Juke is up and running as the daily. Once that happens the EVO get's a lot more bolt-ons and all the good stuff I've been holding off on.

Meh, I would hold on the STi. The engine is going to be completely new for 2022 using the 2.4L Turbo Levorg motor. It's going to be a big improvement so I'd wait. The EJ255 that's in there is a dinosaur and they pop left and right with any kind of mods. I love Subaru, but the reliability is gut wrenching.

I just watched a video of a stock Yaris GR spank the crap out of a Honda Civic Type R in the 1/4 mile and hole shot the new Supra badly. AWD is a powerful weapon.
 

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I have to say, I am super impressed with how far you have gone with your Juke, and all the mod's you are doing yourself.. I am totally impressed with your knowledge and the Mods you are making to your Juke.. Not may people take it as far as you are especially with the CVTs.. Most people don't even bother upgrading the CVT's.. Most people Mod the sticks and tune them up to 300Ish. You rarely find anyone going all out with the CVT Jukes.. I agree with you totally about the Jukes being fun.. I love driving the car in the winter months when temp's are cold, with Ice and snow on the grounded.. I love throwing her in AWD Vectoring, doing donuts and getting ass end out and sideways. Last snow we had, I went out and had so much fun.. But like I said I, I'm going to dump another $1500 on rims tires and new BC Coil Over's and call it a day.. This will all be done over the course of the summer.. I am still waiting for my (Ingen SRI wrinkle red) and (2J wrinkle red Inner cooler Piping) to dress up under the Hood.. That's already paid for just waiting for both companies to get their shyt together and get me my parts. Then Like I said, I'm going with cheap 18"x8.5" rims and 245x40x18 tires, going to shake can paint the front redo all the black trim and throw the carbon fiber hood with the dual air intakes for looks.. And For the final touch I may do the BC coil Over's.. IDK yet.. I know yet I found a nice set of wheel and tires for like $1600 total with a +35 off set, and I've been looking at this Hood and a carbon fiber Juke rear fin and then I'll be done paid off and ready to move on to the next car.. Keep in touch and keep me posted on your progress, and thanks for your help and advice.. I'm going to start taking pics and posting them on here just to show my progress and changes.. TTYS....
Juke R Hood.jpg
 
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