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1,638 Posts
Mine was a dog until I reflashed with the latest TCM flash, made a big difference in launching and rolling response. They aren't terrible off the line, but it isn't a drag racer anyway. It's much better from the roll and better on the CVT transmission as well too. Launching will always ruin a transmission.
The Juke forward clutches are like a fuse basically. When I go with these Raybestos upgrades I'm going to soften the turbo response a bit to take the stress off.. It makes a bigger difference if you turn the wick up to like 300 lb-ft, then it would probably shatter the forward drum and waste the belt too. I was always at 247 lb-ft (crank) right about where the stock clutches were just about slipping. My dyno run the clutches were slipping the entire time once I hit 210 lb-ft @ wheels, then below that they grabbed again. That little bit of slip looks like nothing but it wears them out something fierce......then say hello to a new CVT.
I got the Exedy clutches in a kit but the steel plates were Raybestos, no idea why they didn't use Raybestos on both frictions and steel friction plates. That was an oversight on my part for not checking. Those Master rebuild kits are mega mega tricky and dangerous to use. You could use that master kit and assemble everything perfectly and the CVT would fail to work properly. I have my sources for each individual sub-kit item and prefer some over others based on my initial bench tests and CVT rebuilders out in the field. I'll probably put together a list of P/N to build a high quality master kit from the sub-kits that are out there. That's on my to-do list for the forums.
Yep, clutches are the way to go. Stock torque converter is plenty good for any power actually, the Maxima converter is only a smidge bigger on the converter clutch and that thing put down 257 lb-ft stock.
The Juke forward clutches are like a fuse basically. When I go with these Raybestos upgrades I'm going to soften the turbo response a bit to take the stress off.. It makes a bigger difference if you turn the wick up to like 300 lb-ft, then it would probably shatter the forward drum and waste the belt too. I was always at 247 lb-ft (crank) right about where the stock clutches were just about slipping. My dyno run the clutches were slipping the entire time once I hit 210 lb-ft @ wheels, then below that they grabbed again. That little bit of slip looks like nothing but it wears them out something fierce......then say hello to a new CVT.
I got the Exedy clutches in a kit but the steel plates were Raybestos, no idea why they didn't use Raybestos on both frictions and steel friction plates. That was an oversight on my part for not checking. Those Master rebuild kits are mega mega tricky and dangerous to use. You could use that master kit and assemble everything perfectly and the CVT would fail to work properly. I have my sources for each individual sub-kit item and prefer some over others based on my initial bench tests and CVT rebuilders out in the field. I'll probably put together a list of P/N to build a high quality master kit from the sub-kits that are out there. That's on my to-do list for the forums.
Yep, clutches are the way to go. Stock torque converter is plenty good for any power actually, the Maxima converter is only a smidge bigger on the converter clutch and that thing put down 257 lb-ft stock.