Update:
I ordered and received the Raybestos RCP96-256 Clutch Module pack and R520010 single clutch disc. The module kit was $46 delivered from WIT which includes (3) Reverse friction discs and (3) forward discs, the single clutch disc is $11. I needed an extra disc for my custom forward drum. These are High Energy discs, the picture shows the standard OE tan discs from Exedy. The chart shows how much more durability the High Energy have over the stock Tan discs, which is about +67% life cycle fatigue improvement. The GPZ is not available for the JF011E, but it's also shown for comparison. So it can take the heat better, and although not shown it has a higher "energy load" capacity, meaning more torque capacity.
I'm showing my stock clutch packs from the teardown as reference here. This is what happens when you free rev in neutral to redline......you smoke the clutches. The factory run like .010" clutch pack clearance which means they are sitting "tight" in the drum. The plates were heat warped, blued, frictions were coned/warped and totally smoked/cooked. I'd put their torque holding capacity at about 210 wheel torque or 330 N-m. My dyno run with about 20k miles has these odd little wiggles in the dyno plot.....those are my clutch packs slipping and limiting torque. Over time this fries the clutches even though it doesn't really "felt" like they are slipping.
What people "think" is belt slip, isn't always so and in most cases isn't. Normally the belt slips in 1st gear launching or brake torquing, or if the fluid has air in it. Otherwise the forward clutches slip. This is kind of done on purpose because this protects the belt from over torque. Solution to that is: Raybestos High Energy forward/reverse clutch friction discs, AMSOIL CVT fluid, and adding a 4th clutch disc. How much extra torque capacity does this provide? Well, the stock clutches are good for 330 N-m on the AWD on average. I also confirmed the Raybestos clutch calculator puts the JF011E clutches at about 337 N-m using the 5.43" OD and 218 psi clutch apply pressures. Been my experience and all my datalogs and dyno run confirm no matter what I could do with boost levels I never could exceed 340 N-m maximum and typically more like 330-333 N-m. The High Energy friction discs are about +8-9% higher friction improvement (.125 vs .115 Cof), which improves torque capacity to 358 N-m. The AMSOIL fluid produces about +11% friction improvement (0.10 vs. .09 Cof), so that's 398 N-m. With a 4th clutch disc added that's another +33% improvement or 530 N-m or 390 lb-ft of torque. Obviously the CVT belt can't handle that much torque, but it's nice to have the extra capacity.
You can see how I'm not talking about increasing clutch pressure which is about 218 psi. Structurally this is dangerous to the JF011E clutch drum as it's already pushing it's fatigue limit. This can also blow-out the clutch apply piston. Mine is an upgraded SAP "High Blue" forward clutch piston but the point is higher pressure here is a mistake. The snap rings and pressure plates just start bending and it's not a workable solution. More friction is the answer.
As far as mileage, the stock clutches on a modified car might last to 60k miles if it's driven hard. According to Raybestos the gray High energy clutches would improve that +67% or 100,000 miles. So even if you aren't looking for more horsepower, the transmission durability goes way up. This isn't the only area the CVT is weak, but it's a huge part of why the typically fail.
The clutch pack assembled in the picture is the modified clutch pack with (4) discs installed vs. (3) factory style. The bottom wave cone spring was removed, the upper pressure plate was custom machined to remove a bit of material just under the snap ring to get the correct clearances, the remaining material was left intake for strength. The rebuilt clutch pack clearance is sitting at about .050" fully assembled now vs. .010" stock. The OE spec clearance is .047-.059", yet the factory run at .010". This'll greatly increase durability. I have to tear it back down to add the new Raybestos clutches but that' like 15 minutes worth of work. I also modify the lower friction disc and bend the (36) spline tabs upwards to grip the spline hub, this is the trick to how I made (4) clutches fit and transfer the torque. The spline hub that engages reverse gear would typically need to be lengthened to engage a 4th friction disc, but my little mod helps get around this limitation. I had looked at a custom machined spline hub but I'd have to remove the stock gear attached to it, drill thru the hardened gear, then custom billet machine the spline hub and screw the gear back onto it with locator shear dowel pins. I stopped at that point as I didn't want to do it due to the cost/difficulty but I've actually done this before at work for a custom application. But you understand WHY this transmission isn't really meant for an AWD setup, too many weakpoints. If I soften the boost curve this should help eliminate the issues I had with that part. The cone spring removal will make Part to Drive a bit more aggresive in the shift, otherwise no difference in driveability.
OK, so all that is sitting here waiting to go back in. Plus as I said I sourced the brand new JF011E oil pump from WIT tranmission, so I took the time to swap in the Sonnax hard anodized oil flow relief valve as well and that'll all go back in there.
What's left to do after these last 2.5 years? The final piece that is going out for custom machining is the "red" sleeve spline insert in that picture of the drum assembly. That 4340 piece of steel is going to reinforce the forward drum once the torque increases from the clutch improvements. That thing costs about $200 per piece to custom machine, but it's protecting a $3,000 transmission. It's about a 2 week lead-time to receive it then it get's glued in place. There is also some custom machining of the pulley input shaft inner bore to make clearance for this part. I'm doing that by hand with a carbide valve cutter and custom pilot guide. That steel insert then get's bonded to the forward drum with a tight slip fit which'll greatly improve the hub strength and durability.
Finally, the CVT belt which everyone thinks is the problem. Well, I'm now running the "revised" Bosch 901083 pushbelt. It looks the same as the stock 901066 but it's revised somehow. Possibly better metallurgy, not totally sure. Like I said, my stock pushbelt was worn out to hell and back but it never broke and would have kept running fine enough to daily drive if the forward drum didn't snap in half and blow out the torque converter clutch apply o-ring.
I've already discussed how I plan to bump up the pulley pressure using a custom designed OP Amp circuit, that'll be later on which is probably the last thing I need to worry about when I start cranking the boost up to higher levels. I'm not actually sure at what point the ECM/TCM stops adding pulley pressure as torques increases. This is an important point because most people don't realize the computer can feed in an extra boost of pressure if it detects a sudden pulley slippage. The oil pump has massive oil capacity in reserve to kick the pulley pressure upwards on demand for the belts and I've seen it on the datalogs. This trick only works IF the belt isn't already worn out though. Which is why if you start with a good cooling system upgrade and AMSOIL and don't launch or brake torque, the belt shouldn't slip unless you are doing something totally stupid.
Future stuff: Well, Raybestos also offer (4) different Torque converter clutch friction discs for the JF011E torque converter with a couple that are high performance. I'm trying to find a reliable source for converter rebuilds but the discs and replacement parts are readily available to order. I'm currently running a CVC JF011E reman torque converter (P/N DA30N) but they don't do custom builds. I believe they use the Raybestos "Carbon" clutch disc on their reman units but I cannot totally confirm it. It's more a nice to have but it would be cool to have a higher capacity converter in the CVT as well just to say it's upgraded.
Anyhow, we'll see how this comes along since I'm currently building the motor.
thats not very encouraging. I hope you don't mind another question: how does one go about determining the torque limits of the belt? by element width?
