Here is a little clip on the JF016E from an Altima 2.5L 2013/2014 with 39k miles.
In the video the belt is shown to have slipped and caused surface damage to the pulleys. If you listen at 12:18 he mentions the forward clutches are "no good", this is at 39,000 miles mind you. However, the real problem is that the oil pump flow control piston jammed up, see 12:59 as he goes into detail, same failure as mine actually. These belts don't just fail on their own, almost always they get jammed by the pulley or slip due to control problems. But the weak point is the oil pump flow valve. In the video he simply replaces the oil pump with another OEM rebuild. This is actually a really BIG mistake as it will fail certainly fail again. Sonnax offer pump flow control upgrades for the JF011E which also fit the JF016E. I have their valve installed in a brand new Jatco oil pump, which is the best way to go.
For those that don't know, the JF016E can utilize the heavier duty 901074 (D822700) pushbelt rated for +400 N-m, though the transmission typically comes with the lower rated 901089 belt, not sure why that is. This is the highest rated push-belt used by Bosch (see attached specs). Anything stronger Jatco use the "Luk" chain instead such as the Nissan Maxima on the JF018E.
Other improvements mentioned in the video @ 17:25 he talks about are the revised factory "roller pin" for the pulley sheaves that replace the 6mm roller bearings in the older JF011E that are known to fail. The forward clutch drum is still a 3-disc clutch with the smaller spline hub, so that still has a torque limitation. So the JF016E has some nice updates but a few areas that could be improved upon. The main critical differences are: 1) New pulley has smaller shaft diameter for new pushbelt clearance and smaller running ratio 2) Pulley's can close tighter to grip the narrower 28mm belt 3) New pulley use a stronger "slider pin" vs. "6mm ball bearings" for pulley sheave axial translation.
The final picture is the difference between the JF011E (RE0F10A/B) to the JF016E( RE0F10D) pushbelts. Along with some technical data on the 28/12 belt design which makes it so much improved over the existing 30/10 and 30/12 belts. The chain belt is used on the heavier duty JF017E.
The remaining pictures compare the JF011E pulley system to the JF016E from the WIT CVT catalog. The JF016E pulley case (i.e. pulley, belts, etc.) for the Nissan Altima is P/N 31209-28X9A for about $995 brand new, though it looks like they may have discontinued it recently. From the diagrams it looks like there is a strong possibility the pulleys would swap in. The bearings shown would also need to be run to make it fit properly, along with a provision for a speed sensor reluctor which the new pulley doesn't have. That would require some custom machine work but it wouldn't be a structural component, just a speed sensor pickup. This is in addition to the stronger 901074 belt which is the main reason to do the swap.
Anyway, throwing it out there to give an idea what the common failure modes are on these CVT and what might be possible to improve things.
The 2015 Juke RS AWD come with a Gen1 motor and a Gen 2 transmission (JF016E). The transmission with upgrade potential, as already mentioned, is the JF016E since it comes with a much improved valvebody and potential to straight drop-in the 901074 (belt, 400 N-m) rated, among many other smaller changes. All other areas can be upgraded to handle more torque as my build thread goes into detail about.
Technically, the AWD JF016E CVT installed onto a Gen1 car with the RS ECM, TCM, BCM, paddle shifters, and transfer case at the very least would make it work, in theory. Unfortunately, Nissan have discontinued the AWD JF016E for some bizarre reason, but the FWD version is still available and so are the Gen 1 JF011E (RE0F10B) transmissions. A FWD JF016E would allow a brand new core for an AWD JF016E transmission rebuild, with only the transmission case, differential, output gear the only likely items needing to be reused. On my CVT rebuild, I took high quality refurbished FWD Altima REF010A transmission parts to rebuild my AWD Juke RE0F10B transmission and everything dropped straight in. Gen2 AWD owners need to realize if they burn up a transmission, they may be out of luck as Nissan are discontinuing quite a few P/N and the trend will only increase.
Too bad Nissan discontinued the AWD JF016E cause I'd have liked to take a crack at upgrading it and doing a Gen2 trans swap.
Good questions. Yeah, any Gen 2 AWD CVT owners are screwed. They can buy a FWD Gen2 trans which is still available and use it to build a Gen 2 AWD. I could do it, or any transmission shop that knows CVT. It'd be about as good as a brand new unit, cause the entire guts would be transferred over other than the aluminum case and differential. If they did do that, I'd recommend buying the 901074 pushbelt then they have a heavy duty transmission. Throwing it out there for the Gen2 guys who still want support after the factory discontinued parts. Us Gen1 are still good for now. My CVT build was done mainly to be independent from Nissan as much as possible.
Hi Folks! Newbie here but looking time lurker.
It's the wife's 2014 SV AWD with CVT. Got the car a couple of years ago. It had 23k miles. Now it has 51K.
Did oil change and CVT fluid change today. That drain was taking forever. I got a little over 5 quarts out. Put the same amount back...
If you want to upshift by pulling back on your shift nob then all you need to do is cut and switch the green and grey wire in your center stack, not going to get into how you access the wires all you need is a screw driver and torx bit.
My 2013 Nismo ( uk spec) failed its MOT needing a new cv boot and trackrod ends.
Having removed the driveshaft , a small amount of transmission fluid leaked out.
I have the oil and transmission oil filter but cannot find either the filter location or the transmission oil dipstick?
Searched the...
Is there a way to tell how many actual miles were put on a CVT? Like you buy a used one that says for my instance had supposedly 6K miles on it, is there a way to tell if that is true or just by the mileage of the vehicle it came out of?
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