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Interesting on filtering oil yourself.

At the Steel plant I worked at. During shutdown. The Plant would shut down for 2 weeks to do maintenance. The Oil techs would go around to machines and power filter the hydraulic oil in the big machines. Way cheaper to filter than replace tens of thousands of gallons of oil. They used carts that had hydraulic pumps to suck the fluid out. Push it through big filters and back into the reservoirs.
 

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Discussion Starter #322
OK, just got the Sonnax oil pump valve installed, took me about 45 minutes. The stock valve is 0.6682" in diameter, about 9.6 grams weight. The Sonnax valve is 0.6687" in diameter, about 9.9 grams. When I pulled the stock "new" valve out, it was already getting scratched and gouged, simply amazing. It's a standard anodize gold finish, but very thin. Anyway, the new valve piston bore clearance reduction is now -.0005" total, or -.00025" per side. I didn't get a measurement on the pump bore I.D. but you get the idea that a closer bore fitment will prevent fewer particles from jamming in-between. Another good reason to run a low micron oil filter.

The Sonnax 33510N-02 valve is a standard swap in, and it fits perfectly on a new pump. Another interesting feature of the hard-coat anodize is how slick and greasy if feels, like a ceramic coating. This is a really good feature to have with limited oil lubrication. I moved the piston in and out and it moves smoothly, then I put the stock spring back in and put blue loctite on the screw cap and torqued it back down. Done and ready to install. I'll post up the pictures a bit later.
 

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Discussion Starter #323
Interesting on filtering oil yourself.

At the Steel plant I worked at. During shutdown. The Plant would shut down for 2 weeks to do maintenance. The Oil techs would go around to machines and power filter the hydraulic oil in the big machines. Way cheaper to filter than replace tens of thousands of gallons of oil. They used carts that had hydraulic pumps to suck the fluid out. Push it through big filters and back into the reservoirs.
Macgyver,

Yep, it made sense once I realized 2 micron can't really be used on the vehicle. I'd run it for maybe 2-6 hours on a test bench, then swap it back into the vehicle or in containers for the next oil change. That's pretty interesting about the oil recycling, never heard of it but it makes sense. For engine oil, wouldn't do it, but for CVT oil it makes financial sense.
 

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Yeah the Oil techs actually have "Degrees" like a mechanic.

I loved working Shutdown. Tearing stuff apart and putting it back together. Huge machines. Did a "Tilt" on this one. Absolute fun. Ours was a SX 65. Much bigger. The Middle "Tilts" over so you can rebuild the whole thing. It has two levels underneath. The rotary chucks had to be lifted up. Put on big wooden blocks and all the slide surfaces replaced. Unreal. Lying under it and working on it.


Oh and there is this if you need more airflow.
 

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I'm having the same trouble finding bearings. Can you tell me where you ordered that Koyo bearing, the one that goes under that secondary gear, and also did you ever find that htf r60-32a differential bearing? I can't find them anywhere. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #326
I'm having the same trouble finding bearings. Can you tell me where you ordered that Koyo bearing, the one that goes under that secondary gear, and also did you ever find that htf r60-32a differential bearing? I can't find them anywhere. Thanks for your help.
Yes, Sonnax now carry it as P/N 33228N.

I got mine which is Koyo RNU208-3 from here:

.NEW jf011e Cvt transmission cylindrical roller bearing RNU208-3 80x36x18 | eBay

The large differential bearing I couldn't find directly. However, I'm starting to think the Nissan Juke AWD transfer case "ring" gear bearing is the same, been meaning to buy one to check the P/N, but it's available directly from Nissan dealership. That is you're best bet on that one. They almost never need to be replaced though, mine was nearly brand new.

When I rebuilt my transmission I bought (2) of every bearing. Measure the press fit "depth" from the end of the shaft to the top of the bearing inner race using a caliper and makes sure it is EXACTLY they same as stock. When you press them on it's easy to get fooled into thinking the bearing is fully seated, this will create a LOT of problems if you are off. I also mark the nuts with a marker to know the exact angular torque to achieve BEFORE I remove them, then torque them back to the same spot with an impact gun. Good luck.
 

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Just had a random thought.
Do you think it’s possible to remove the reverse speed limiter? It would be hilarious to be able to hit top speed in reverse. In theory a cvt would allow it without a limiter.
 

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Discussion Starter #328
Lol.....I suppose. Probably break the planetary though. Give it a try.
 

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I'm going out on a limb here and thinking the reverse speed limiter is set in the TCM programming. The TCM probably prevents the valve body and pulleys from shifting out of pseudo-first gear.
 

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That would be hilarious.

Deew Eeet.

Juke already has the longest record for car on two wheels. Well used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
Figured I'd post up, been awhile. CVT project is still going, waiting on the engine rebuild.

Here's a little blurb on the Subaru forums about Level10 vs. IPT transmission upgrades:


In case you guys were wondering what goes into a modded CVT from these vendors, it ain't much. The Level10 mod is basically a mechanical valvebody modification, literally some shim washers or spring rate increases. IPT do what I already suggested which is a modification of the pressure transducer signal, though they now offer a Torque converter upgrade for the Subaru as that is what's weak on those transmissions. IPT use a simple resistor. Too much sensor signal shift will trip a TCM code, which IPT seem to suffer from. Sonnax recommend on electronic Auto-transmissions not to alter the pressure signal much beyond 5% or so, or a mechanical spring rate increase is required to avoid a TCM DTC.
 

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Discussion Starter #332 (Edited)
Still waiting on the engine to get finished.
 

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Been following thread since inception, and I have a question:

Won't the TCU still nerf the power actually appied to the drivetrain with its own safety parameters and programming? For example, at stock output with 170+ the cvt is a dog off the line because it refuses to apply full power to the drivetrain. Lets say we get the engine to output 325 hp & torque and upgrade the cvt, won't it still limit the drivetrain output to the same amount? Or is it more of a dynamic sensor situation where the stock setup is preventing slip and so the upgraded setup (with higher capacity and less slip) will actually be able to put more to the drivetrain off the line? If it's entirely sensor/slippage/grip pressure based, I would expect better launch performance. But if the TCU is going to limit launch based on raw power/torque output, then it would just hit that nerf limit sooner on launch and launch performance would be exactly the same.

The basis for the question is because, right now, being lightly-moderately tuned with supporting mods, sure it feels a lot quicker on the road, especially in the 2nd to 4th 'gear' range and pulls harder. BUT, it still feels like the cvt is always nerfing the power output to the drivetrain. It's like I know the power is there and I can get to my 'powerband' on demand, but the cvt is always fighting to catch up and never putting that power down. Again, if this is because it's fighting with the TCU based on sensored power output, then it will never be much faster until we have the ability to flash the TCU. But if it's sensor slippage based, then an upgraded cvt could improve overall wheel output.

Is there any solid documentation on how/why the TCU determines output (sensored slippage vs sensored power)?

I would also assume that dyno reads at the wheels would be limited to the TCU output, if sensored power based. A dyno might be able to read a bit higher due to a controlled acceleration and gear control (not entirely a real world replica). But would that dyno power actually be usable on a road launch?
 

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Rather than editing, I'll just add. Based on the last few posts, it looks like the answer is indeed pressure/slippage based for some (most/all/nissan/juke?) cvts. And that the workaround is to intercept the pressure/slippage signals to the TCU and fake/modify them to force it to stay within operating parameters. Kinda like a bung and recessed sensor or an mbc (these are more of a physical trick than an electronic signal trick, but similar idea i assume).

If engine output is increased to say 350 hp/tq vs 250, would the amount of 'fake' adjustment to the pressure reads be different, meaning engine output would require differing cvt electrical components that are specific to each application or range of power?
 

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Discussion Starter #335
Good question.

There's information out there, just not specific to the Juke. The Juke is most definitely launch limited stock, absolutely. My Juke is torque limited in 1st gear to about 280 N-m, it hits that and never exceeds it based on my datalogs. In the higher gears I don't think there are torque limits on the ECUTek tune per say. My entire 1st gear launch sucks, anything after that is really good.

I think what you are asking is if there are "Torque Limit Tables". I believe yes, there are. I've seen the Honda torque limit tables for the Honda Civic 1.5L turbo. I have no doubt they are on the Nissan but I haven't personally seen them. Whatever ECUTek did, it's possible they upped the torque limits which are typically rpm based. A stock Juke would hit fuel cut before the torque limit anyway so I've never experienced torque limitation stock, cause the fuel cut hits first.
 
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Discussion Starter #336
If you mess with the engine's idea of "torque", you won't get the pulley pressure you need to clamp the belt. I suppose there is a work around, but in fact the computer having a good idea of the engine torque isn't a bad thing, it can easily keep ramping the pressure. If you trick the computer to think it has lower torque and lower pressure, you run into problems with that strategy as one is fighting the other. I personally would alter the pressure transducer signal, reducing it slightly but leaving the torque signal/calculation alone. This way the computer just adds more pressure on top of what it already is adding for the actual torque. This is assuming there are no torque limits on the ECM, which is where they reside typically. Having seen guys put down 250 lb-ft @ wheels, I don't think there are torque limits or if there are they can be removed thru a tune. The pressure signal can really only be altered slightly without creating a DTC, though there is a work around for that via a higher rated spring on the control piston.
 
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Discussion Starter #337
Figured I'd throw this out there too. If you want to see if you are being torque limited.........look at the throttle angle. If the ignition timing, cam timing, and fuel look normal the only way the engine can limit torque is via the boost control and most likely the throttle plate angle.
 
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Btw, i use John's ots stg1 with the tcu 'tweaks' applied. Still feels like I can wind the engine out to 5500-6000 and the cvt plays catch-up. I'll usually get one little torque steer pull around 40-50 mph, but that's the only evidence that it ever catches up. And even that is hard to reproduce. During that, I'll get a little shot of torque, then it's gone again. Rpms still the same, cvt loosens up again and i usually stop accelerating by 50ish in the city or 70-75 from a highway onramp or toll booth. So, i dont know what happens beyond there.
 

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Discussion Starter #339
Hmm, that’s weird. Mine pulls hard to 6000 rpms in manual mode. CVT mode it’ll pull to 7000 rpms. My torque hits very hard and pulls to the upshift point.

I don’t recall the top end being limited at all. I won’t discuss speeds but definitely I’m not limited. I do use a manual boost controller, maybe the boost is getting cut back on yours, it sounds like it.
 

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Ive found that my powerband is that 5500-6000 range. 6500 and above is useless wind out, actually feels weaker. I usually just leave it in sport auto. I just let the shift points happen naturally or manipulate them with throttle. Even in sport auto, ive found i can pre-emptively avoid the fake shift points with some well timed feathering, but thats just a fun 'beat the cvt' game I play with it sometimes.
 
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