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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a way to tell how many actual miles were put on a CVT? Like you buy a used one that says for my instance had supposedly 6K miles on it, is there a way to tell if that is true or just by the mileage of the vehicle it came out of?
 

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Maybe Nissan Connect. Dealer software can pick that up.

Only other way I can think of is using Carfax and seeing if it was ever replaced at a dealer.
 

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If it was 6k miles, it was in a wreck. What damage that did I'd inspect the vehicle it was out of, and they usually have pictures. If the wheels are pushed in from the side impact.......hard pass on that transmission. If the transmission is a reman........hard pass on that as well, just look at the part code and it'll tell you if it's a reman or not.

If it's out of the vehicle, looking at the transmission serial number would be a start but only the year of manufacture.
If you purchase it I'd seriously do the following listed below before installation:

  • Check CVT belt condition by removing oil pan, dropping valvebody, and inspecting with a boroscope camera for pushbelt element wear/damage.
  • Additionally, check oil filter (i.e. cooler location) for metal debri or clogging.
  • Remove and inspect speed sensors for metal filings on the magnets.
  • Remove oil pan and inspect oil pan magnets for metal shavings or sludge formation.
  • Drop valvebody and actuate with air compressor thru port openings: forward clutch pack actuation/leakage, reverse clutch packs actuation/leakage, CVT secondary pulley actuation using 90 psi air pressure. There should be NO air leaks and inspect for mechanical actuation.
  • If I was this far into the transmission for inspection, the oil pump would be removed (end case removal required) and upgraded with Sonnax oil pump flow control valve (33510-N01 or N02) to avoid future transmission failures. Pretty easy job if the transmission is out on the bench and totally worth the effort to avoid early transmission failure.
You can do a lot of inspection BEFORE installing on the vehicle, this is your best bet. If something looks off, you will get a refund on the return. Let me know if you get to this point and I can help you out and walk you thru the process.
 

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Oh jeez. I misread. I thought the Juke had 6k miles etc.

Pbog is right on. While it is out of the Juke. Get some work done to it.
 

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If it was 6k miles, it was in a wreck. What damage that did I'd inspect the vehicle it was out of, and they usually have pictures. If the wheels are pushed in from the side impact.......hard pass on that transmission. If the transmission is a reman........hard pass on that as well, just look at the part code and it'll tell you if it's a reman or not.

If it's out of the vehicle, looking at the transmission serial number would be a start but only the year of manufacture.
If you purchase it I'd seriously do the following listed below before installation:

  • Check CVT belt condition by removing oil pan, dropping valvebody, and inspecting with a boroscope camera for pushbelt element wear/damage.
  • Additionally, check oil filter (i.e. cooler location) for metal debri or clogging.
  • Remove and inspect speed sensors for metal filings on the magnets.
  • Remove oil pan and inspect oil pan magnets for metal shavings or sludge formation.
  • Drop valvebody and actuate with air compressor thru port openings: forward clutch pack actuation/leakage, reverse clutch packs actuation/leakage, CVT secondary pulley actuation using 90 psi air pressure. There should be NO air leaks and inspect for mechanical actuation.
  • If I was this far into the transmission for inspection, the oil pump would be removed (end case removal required) and upgraded with Sonnax oil pump flow control valve (33510-N01 or N02) to avoid future transmission failures. Pretty easy job if the transmission is out on the bench and totally worth the effort to avoid early transmission failure.
You can do a lot of inspection BEFORE installing on the vehicle, this is your best bet. If something looks off, you will get a refund on the return. Let me know if you get to this point and I can help you out and walk you thru the process.
Excellent advice
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Weeeelll, see that's the problem I was in a pinch for a vehicle and needed this going so I indeed bought the used CVT I looked at the pics the right side was dented pretty bad but didn't look like the wheel was pushed in or so I don't rem. That was my first concern is if something up front was broke, the transfer case was being sold at the same time ...long since been sold i'm sure. I had a transmission shop look at it and he said he was well aware of the nissan CVT's but long story short, he called me after dropping juke and CVT off to him he had NO IDEA how to put the CVT in there...very surprised at that even I knew a way ...then again I looked at fast religions channel often lol. So I went to another mechanic, previous forgot to tighten coolant line on cooler.... and well car overheated had to use water non nissan coolant to make it to the other shop ....the CVT in the juke would go up to a certain speed then start slipping so I basically limped over to the other shop. This is when I noticed the L instead of the D when I picked it up he tried looking at it and couldn't replicate the L. I have a post on here about that. So, yeah now on long trips it feels like the car just doesn;t want to accelerate past 65-70 going up hills it wants to just rev what seems high rpms around 4500 and stay in that range, when letting off the gas it's sluggish ....nothing but trouble and a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I still have the old CVT, all this cost me around $2800, between fluid and both shops, the other shop charged me almost a $100 just to check it and almost caused me a LOT more in repairs.
 

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Not sure what the L vs. D means?

Sounds like you got it installed and somewhat working. What you are describing sounds like some low or high fluid levels causing the transmission to act up..........that would be the first check.
If the CVT wasn't damaged in the accident, then it should be OK.
 

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Did Nissan ever look at the car with their software ? I forget.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did Nissan ever look at the car with their software ? I forget.
No, they said there was no such thing as software for the nissan CVT, even tho when I brought the car in they had no idea HOW to get it into drive b/c now it's almost like it isn't going into reverse nor drive almost like the linkage is not in the right place...the shop mechanic I took it to said he checked it and it hadn't moved....I so I have to sort of slam it back into drive and it goes into drive then reverse I sort of have to feel it shift into place. It's an odd one for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure what the L vs. D means?

Sounds like you got it installed and somewhat working. What you are describing sounds like some low or high fluid levels causing the transmission to act up..........that would be the first check.
If the CVT wasn't damaged in the accident, then it should be OK.
When shifting into drive it at times goes into what Matt called Low on EU models they have a low, I guess US models don't but when it's in L it sure doesn't shift out of it unless I slightly move it then it goes into D
 

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It still has to be the shift linkage out of adjustment or the shift position sensor at the gear stick ?

Nissan can hook up their "Consult" Program and see the ECU, TCU, and BPM programming.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It still has to be the shift linkage out of adjustment or the shift position sensor at the gear stick ?

Nissan can hook up their "Consult" Program and see the ECU, TCU, and BPM programming.
Would that cause it to show the L for low and stay in low....no matter if I push it over to the manumatic it stays in low till I nudge it up a little to show D only then can I go into manumatic and "shift", it's def made me want to drive it into a brick wall LOL
 
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