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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put in the alternate thermostats Matt came up with and posted on youtube. Fantastic! The upper is 2mm larger in diameter than the stock thermostat so you only need to shave off at max 1mm from the entire circumference to make it fit. I measured mine with a caliper and it was about 52.3 in one axis and 52.5 in the orthogonal axis about the diameter. The stock thermostat is 52mm, so you don't have to be exact, just close. Great job Matt for another good find for us. I did this in conjunction with replacing the radiator fan. Since I tore her apart for the fan, I said screw it lets do everything I need to do. It is still 90+ here in central Oklahoma and I was doing some deliveries today and the temp rarely hits 190. It has gone over 200 a handful of times since I got it back together and driving on Monday, but that is sitting in traffic without the A/C running. As soon as I start moving or kick the A/C on to get the rad fan turned on, it drops right back to the 180s. If you are going to mess with your cooling system, it is definitely worth it.
 

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If you do the whole system and have a CVT cooler and oil cooler. This should lower all temps if you dial all the thermostats to near the same temps.

Might really help cvt temps for sure.

Thanks for the report out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I figure the CVT "wamer" can also act as a cooler to a mild extent if the coolant running through the beehive is cooler than the CVT fluid. I know it wont be much, as it is a parallel system for the pressure side, but any cooling for CVT is better than nothing. Of course, cooler temps going into the radiator means overall cooler temps in the engine bay. At least logic would think it would. I have no proof, but in the front of the engine bay it should be cooler with overall cooler temps in the cooling system.
 
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