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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, I have been experiencing a strange problem and don’t know if anyone else has or knows why or what to do to resolve it. After shutting off the car if I don’t get out of it for a long while I can hear what sounds like the starter trying to actuate slowly (the clicking of trying to start the car when the battery is dead). I go to start the car and the battery is dead. Also, if I go to sit in the car I start it and it runs for about 5 minutes shut it off but do not exit for about an hour that same thing will happen. I have ensured that the car is off and not on accessory.
2012 Juke SL push button start.

Any help would be appreciated!

Also as a note when I jump the battery I don't have to wait at all. Merely connecting another battery to jump and the car will start immediately every time.
 

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So you are sitting in the car for an hour?

I would say you are leaving some accessory on.

Once a battery has been drained a few times it usually does not recover.

Take it to an autoparts store and have the battery and charging system checked. Its usually free. I would say its the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the speedy reply. Yes I am siting in the car. As this has happened a few times I have been observant on having anything on. I have taken it to several auto parts stores that do the free checks to check the battery and charging system and all are always reported as fine. I've been thinking that this might be because I'm not exiting the car after I turn it off. Just a gut feeling. Like if I were to actually get out of the car and get back in without starting it again it'd be fine. Again, a gut feeling.
 

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I have a 2012 SL and none of the behavior you are describing, or trying to rationalize, is how any of this should work. The car should never start itself. Ever.

There is no additional rationalizing, with regards to 'maybe if I exited' or 'I left the key in the vehicle', etc. The way it's supposed to act is exactly what you'd expect, nothing quirky... if you are inside the vehicle, you can turn it on, turn it off, stay in it, get out, turn it back on, leave the vehicle, go back, turn it off, on, etc. It should act 100% respectfully to the commands given to it. Nothing should make the starter attempt to start the vehicle if you are outside of it with the fob AND no one has their foot on the brake AND no one is pushing the fob. The jump start immediately when connecting battery terminals is a sign something is wrong as well.

As to what it is... well, as mentioned, the standard start procedure requires BOTH foot on the brake (meaning the brake light is active and being sensed by the ECU), as well as the fob being inside the cabin, and finally, pushing the start button.

Since the vehicle is starting when jumped without the brake on and/or fob in the cabin, it goes to reason that there is a malfunction at, or between, the starter and the ECU. Based on what you are describing, the vehicle is in a constant state of startup even when turned off (which drains the battery FAST). This could be even more serious if the vehicle is still trying to start even once it already is running! I don't think your local battery tester is going to be able to figure this one out. I would head to a dealer or a trusted mechanic who has knowledge of Nissan specific details (fob, ECU, etc.) and access to a Nissan Consult machine. Personally, I would just go straight to a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bargeld, I did not explain properly. The sound I refer to is merely a description of what the sound is like and not the car actually trying to start. When cables are connected the car does not start on its own. Someone connects the cable while I am sitting in the car and I initiate the start and the car starts right away, instantly, no waiting.
Sorry for the confusion.
 

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That's good clarification, so disregard my initial line of thinking.

Could the clicking or pinging you hear after shutting of the engine be the exhaust/heat shields cooling? That's a very common occurrence with the juke. Just asking because it could be leading in the wrong direction if it's just a cooldown thing.

When you turn off the engine, the interior light comes on automatically, then shuts off after you open and close the door (exit the vehicle). If you sit in the vehicle, then it probably stays on for quite some time.

I can tell you that my stock battery functions for starting 100% under 'normal' conditions. Even when it's cold (although it is garaged) it still starts every time for regular usage. ANYTHING abnormal and it dies just enough to not start. If I go and look around in my trunk or take physical measurements for stereo equipment, it dies. When I went on accessory power in order to apply my ECUTek tune over a 15 minute period (I turned off the interior courtesy light manually), it died.

I can jump it, like you, and it starts instantly. I have not had the battery tested, but in my mind, the reality is that it is a 5 year old OEM lead-acid battery and it's just dead.

I've looked for batteries a couple times already and almost went out to autozone today to get a new AGM battery. I will probably do it this weekend. If that's the OEM nissan battery, even though it tests ok, I would still consider a replacement as a first step. On my radar are the duracell AGM from batteries plus or the AGM from autozone. The juke uses a group 35, if you want to start shopping around online.
 

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Yeah if your battery is 4 years old and still the oem especially. Just get the new style AGM's. Well worth it. So much more stable.

It is unfortunate that the car is testing ok at the autopart stores. The dealer has more scanning tools to find out if it is the battery or charging system.

So if you let the car sit. While you are not in it. How many days can it sit before she will not start ? As an example. My 2014 with an OEM Battery. Only 6000 miles on her. Can sit 1 week to 10 days before she starts "Slow".
 

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That's a good point, I can leave mine in the garage, undriven/unstarted for over a week and still start without problems. It might sound a little slow, but it hasn't failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, The battery is less than a year old and I went to a mechanic to have it tested where they tested it for holding a charge and discharge. It checked out okay. They wouldn't test it with me in the car like my scenario because I had to be out of the car (sigh).
I also checked when sitting in the car without exiting after the car is shut off and the interior lights do turn off; dome, glove box and rear hatch. I've also recently let the car sit for 8 days garaged in a non heated garage without running it and it started fine with no discernible slowness.
One thing I did notice different when I don't exit the vehicle after shutting it off is that the security light on the instrument panel does not flash like it does when I do exit.
I'm thinking that this weekend I'm going to have to fake the car out into thinking I did not exit the vehicle and put a meter on the battery to see if there's a drain. Don't know what else I can do.
 

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Okay, The battery is less than a year old and I went to a mechanic to have it tested where they tested it for holding a charge and discharge. It checked out okay. They wouldn't test it with me in the car like my scenario because I had to be out of the car (sigh).
I also checked when sitting in the car without exiting after the car is shut off and the interior lights do turn off; dome, glove box and rear hatch. I've also recently let the car sit for 8 days garaged in a non heated garage without running it and it started fine with no discernible slowness.
One thing I did notice different when I don't exit the vehicle after shutting it off is that the security light on the instrument panel does not flash like it does when I do exit.
I'm thinking that this weekend I'm going to have to fake the car out into thinking I did not exit the vehicle and put a meter on the battery to see if there's a drain. Don't know what else I can do.
All you have to do is leave the FOB in the seat if that's what you want to do but, something isn't making sense
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nope, I tried that after the first couple of times this happened and it doesn't produce the dead battery result. I think I'm just going to leave the window open and start the car from the outside then shut it off through the window with the fob still inside. Either this weekend or next I'll have the time. I really thought I'd easily find someone with an experience like mine.

I'll watch the thread till then but will update weather or not I find out anything.
 

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I think the car is off but not totally off since the door switch did not cycle or since you are still activating the seat sensor or seat belt sensor etc. Something is still draining.

I would say at this point. If you are going to sit in the car. Do so with the car idling every 15 mins or something like that.

Something is not adding up and its weird that your body is draining the battery. LOLOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update:
I FINALLY was able to rig a digital display to a power adapter to show the battery voltage from the power outlet while driving. I found that the voltage would vary (while driving) from 12.5 to 14.3. So now I think it may be the voltage regulator. I'll be purchasing a digital multi-meter next week on payday for further testing. I don't have a reliable or trustworthy mechanic near me nor can I afford the dealership.
Wish me luck!
 

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Update:
I FINALLY was able to rig a digital display to a power adapter to show the battery voltage from the power outlet while driving. I found that the voltage would vary (while driving) from 12.5 to 14.3. So now I think it may be the voltage regulator. I'll be purchasing a digital multi-meter next week on payday for further testing. I don't have a reliable or trustworthy mechanic near me nor can I afford the dealership.
Wish me luck!
Unless 1st gen are different, then that is normel . That's what nissan calls "smart charging" the ECM controls the Voltage of the alternator and varies the voltage to as needed.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Unless 1st gen are different, then that is normel . That's what nissan calls "smart charging" the ECM controls the Voltage of the alternator and varies the voltage to as needed.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
Yup. Saves fuel.
 

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I have been experienced unexplained battery drain on my 2016 tekna. 2 new batteries in 4 months, the car has only done 7500 miles !! I have been told that something is causing a significant battery drain, maybe a module not shutting down properly. My car is currently at a Nissan garage to diagnose the problem. But not holding out much hope
 

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I have been experienced unexplained battery drain on my 2016 tekna. 2 new batteries in 4 months, the car has only done 7500 miles !! I have been told that something is causing a significant battery drain, maybe a module not shutting down properly. My car is currently at a Nissan garage to diagnose the problem. But not holding out much hope
When it gets out of the shop repaired. Let us know !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just an update. Sadly I totaled the Juke. The mechanic said it looks like the tie rod snapped and caused "irregular steering control" which led to "catastrophic failure". What these terms actually mean is I $h1t my pants because I almost died.
Digress: If anyone ever figures this out just be nice to know what it is.
Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

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Your tie rod is what links your steering to the wheels. When a tie rod end brakes. Your ability to steer one wheel fails. It will turn in all the way or turn out all the way and you cannot control your car because that wheel is not attached to the steering anymore. Yes scary stuff but it does happen. Parts break. Glad you are ok. It could have been worse for sure.
 

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Anyone ever figure out what this is? Im experiencing the same problem on my 2013 Juke. Seems randomly the battery will drain
 
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