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So, if it costs five grand. (Total guess), would be pretty good value in my view.

I am actually caving and looking to sell my 90k miles rs awd now, as there is no clear path forward so far on this and I really want a manual again. I think the Juke is awesome, handles extemely well and the recaro seats are so comfy. Trying to find something to replace it is actually a challenge.

If this ever happens, and next year when I should have moved into a place with a garage I would consider buying another cheap juke to modify for this as a little weapon.
 

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So, if it costs five grand. (Total guess), would be pretty good value in my view.

I am actually caving and looking to sell my 90k miles rs awd now, as there is no clear path forward so far on this and I really want a manual again.
$5K is just the beginning the time and effort spent and the trial and error probably cost you more than the money you put in not to mention when all is said and done this thing may not even fly.
Like you say easier to get rid of it and buy a MT AWD car if that's what you really want.
 

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$5K is just the beginning the time and effort spent and the trial and error probably cost you more than the money you put in not to mention when all is said and done this thing may not even fly.
Like you say easier to get rid of it and buy a MT AWD car if that's what you really want.
Regardless, I'm still VERY excited to see what comes of this. If standard parts end up fitting for 95% of the job, that will be a big win.
 

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These types of cost vs. benefit comparisons are interesting. If purely on that rational, buy the cheapest AWD 6spd you can. Been there, done it. Get's boring to make 5 year payments. A used car you can tinker with is fun as hell. Now imagine that car is AWD, 6spd, hatchback, and near 3,000 lb curb weight. The education you get from a build like this is worth it.
 

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These types of cost vs. benefit comparisons are interesting. If purely on that rational, buy the cheapest AWD 6spd you can. Been there, done it. Get's boring to make 5 year payments. A used car you can tinker with is fun as hell. Now imagine that car is AWD, 6spd, hatchback, and near 3,000 lb curb weight. The education you get from a build like this is worth it.
100% a modder. The only reason I haven't done any tune or even fitting the unused intercooler to my RS AWD is fear of doing harm to the powertrain. Last time one blew on me it cost ME 5000 dollars, something I'm not keen to repeat.

I'm super excited for an AWD manual Juke. I think it would absolutely be a weapon on the street/track. If this does come to pass and she gets it done, and I'm in my new place with a big garage with a lift, I will be open to doing it myself, and seeing what I can do for others as part of the Juke community.

Right now, I'm looking at WRX's 2017-2019 and Veloster N. I haven't driven either yet, but I can't image the WRX is anywhere near as good handling as the RS. There are some really good people in this group, and i actually don't want to say goodbye to the Juke :( I love it.
 

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You made the right call on not modding the RS AWD, it's a very nice car. I was that close to buying a new silver 2014 RS AWD and trading in my 2012 Juke AWD CVT. The new WRX handle very good, but a bit heavy and big. I drove a 2014 WRX CVT and I actually liked it. A base WRX with 6 spd is the best value with just the factory short shift upgrade, that's what I would do. I'd also leave it stock-ish with minimal mods. I've heard great things about the Veloster N, nearly as good as the Honda Civic Type R or good enough that it's not worth the extra $10,000 with dealer markups. I'm looking at the Hyundai Kona N as a strong candidate for the Juke replacement at some point. I'm actually holding out seriously for the Toyota Yaris GR that might one day come to the States.
 
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You made the right call on not modding the RS AWD, it's a very nice car. I was that close to buying a new silver 2014 RS AWD and trading in my 2012 Juke AWD CVT. The new WRX handle very good, but a bit heavy and big. I drove a 2014 WRX CVT and I actually liked it. A base WRX with 6 spd is the best value with just the factory short shift upgrade, that's what I would do. I'd also leave it stock-ish with minimal mods. I've heard great things about the Veloster N, nearly as good as the Honda Civic Type R or good enough that it's not worth the extra $10,000 with dealer markups. I'm looking at the Hyundai Kona N as a strong candidate for the Juke replacement at some point. I'm actually holding out seriously for the Toyota Yaris GR that might one day come to the States.
The Yaris GR I was hoping like crazy would come. The Corolla GR.. not sure it'll be the same joy. The only downside of the Veloster N, is that I would be worried about depreciation. The 10 year warranty is very appealing, although, not being able to mod past intercooler, catch can, exhaust.... for that time is gonna be a be annoying.

This lady needs some motivation to get an AWD manual done :D lol (I got my own life stuff, so completely understand, just excited to see it getting done).
 

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The depreciation is a possibility. The car is serious quick 0-60, like 4.9 seconds. The modding isn't totally needed from what I've heard. I kept my EVO X stock for about 5 minutes, the 0-60 of 4.4 seconds sounded great but in reality it was lot's slower and I was getting smoked by too many newer fast cars......not cool....lol Modded it's pretty damned fast, but there is a healthy balance vs. reliability. Not totally sold on the look of the Veloster, but the Yaris bears a strong resemblance to it for some reason and I do like that visually. I'd say it's a pretty solid option if the size fit's your needs.
 

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The depreciation is a possibility. The car is serious quick 0-60, like 4.9 seconds. The modding isn't totally needed from what I've heard. I kept my EVO X stock for about 5 minutes, the 0-60 of 4.4 seconds sounded great but in reality it was lot's slower and I was getting smoked by too many newer fast cars......not cool....lol Modded it's pretty damned fast, but there is a healthy balance vs. reliability. Not totally sold on the look of the Veloster, but the Yaris bears a strong resemblance to it for some reason and I do like that visually. I'd say it's a pretty solid option if the size fit's your needs.
Being brutally honest, I have a ten year old, and I should probably get something more sensible, but my wife does have an SUV, and she is supporting me in getting a faster car. I'm not sold on the 3 doors, and I've owned a supercharged show car Honda S-MX from Japan (3 doors). They do look amazing when you put white 6 spokes on them though I will say that. If the VN didn't have the awesome warranty, no quibble situation with being able to track it and still be covered, and even put 'some' mods on it like FMIC/exhaust etc that won't affect warranty, I probably wouldn't be interested. They sound great though, reminds me of the Supra. I wasn't sold on the crackle pop stuff at first, but it's grown on me. Money wise, I might have to settle for a 2020, with the slightly inferior seats.

I might end up making a profit when I sell my house and move/buy my wife's parents place, so probably best to wait, but I'm getting impatient. I want a manual car again.

Dumb thing.. I like the WRX, but it's the last year before they change entirely to a new version. Seems like a bad idea to buy a WRX now.
 

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Oh.. and yeah. 5 seconds isn't even fast anymore it seems. I suspect I would still need to be on my toes. I don't really 'race', I like to drive fast. I'm not in a car 'scene' anymore at 43 years old, and having moved over here from England, that 'base' of people I just don't have anymore like I did with S13's S14's etc.
 

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Good chit-chat here.

Yes modding the AWD Juke is a waste honestly. 4 Grand on a "built" transmission and it blows all the same (i think so anyway, car is going to be diagnosed soon/when i have time).

It's such a shame this car didn't come in a manual AWD because the chassis and handling characteristics are phenomenal. It's actually crazy how good the chassis and suspension is on this car. It drives like a little go kart and when you have slightly bigger tires this thing just grips..... and grips..... and grips.

Have absolutely scared passengers s***less with what this thing can pull off going up and down the canyons here near Park City where I live. Absolute crazy little machine that can keep up with the most hyped cars handling-wise (civic type r etc.....)

And you're blessed with a very powerful engine that loves mods......... yet of course in typical nissan fashion this thing has an Achilles heel that is seemingly insurmountable.

The reality of the juke's transmission is this. It was designed as a city beater urban machine cruising around low rpm and putting around cities with practicality. Which is crazy to think they made an RS model and strapped some serious boy racer bucket seats to the damn thing.

Even more of a shame with how the CVT puts power down. It's actually fun as hell. This thing pulls like an electric car sort of and when modded putting down massive power it just feels crazy. If i put it in 2WD mode and floor it up hill when the tires are cold and it's a little damp outside the car zig zags across the road slightly. Just a fun time to be had by all.

Unfortunately all that fun ends when you realize that pull you did just cost you 0.5% of your transmission lifespan. This car could have a floating health bar over it or a "CVT life" monitor on the dash that whenever you do a pull the meter goes down like a video game showing how much you've hurt your jukey and preparing your wallet for another 3 thousand dollar trans replacement.

Alas, the AWD Juke is nothing but a fraud unfortunately. Anyone that says otherwise is fooling themselves. This transmission cannot handle abuse. That's all there is to say about it. You could take a bone stock BRAND NEW awd juke and do massive damage to the transmission if you took it out to a track for even an hour. Hell, I could cook a trans taking up the canyon in about 2 hours of abuse guaranteed.

If you're someone who is doing like....... one pull a MONTH on this thing and driving it very conservatively and doing proper maintenance the transmission can probably last? Even then 100k miles would be absolutely amazing to see if you're primarily city driving as this puts the most wear and tear on the drivetrain.

It truly is a sad state of affairs at the end of the day......
 

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Well, it all depends. That 4.8 seconds being a DCT is very quick, the 6 spd manual is 5.2 seconds. It's a very quick car for a FWD actually, almost one of the fastest I've ever heard of 0-60 mph. It's probably built to handle mods very easily, I think an intake/exhaust/tune would be zero problems but that's a guess.

Sensible sucks....don't do it. My 2015 EVO X has a loud exhaust, barely any sound deadening, tires so hard the dash creaks. It's the first turbo car I can't hear the intake turbo sound, the engine/exhaust is equal to a Mustang so it's more like a muscle car rumble sound. The stock tires when I roll over rumble strips on the expressway I have to brace for the massive impact. The steering ratio is so quick you learn to not sneeze or react with your hands to anything while being distracted, otherwise you spin the car. The 5 spd transmission is a short ratio gear box, so highway cruising is 4000 rpms @ 70 mph. Fuel economy sucks. Yeah, no way I'm doing sensible. I'm 49 now and don't plan on changing.

Only thing I'd change is the budget, don't buy more car than you can afford. I paid close to $46k financed with zero down, half way thru the payments it was torture. I like the $30,000 price for the Veloster, it's a bargain for the performance. The WRX probably worth it but I'd be curious about the new ones. The new STi is getting a heavily upgraded 2.4L Turbo with 400 h.p. so it'll be interesting what the base WRX gets, might be worth the wait.
 

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Good chit-chat here.

Yes modding the AWD Juke is a waste honestly. 4 Grand on a "built" transmission and it blows all the same (i think so anyway, car is going to be diagnosed soon/when i have time).

It's such a shame this car didn't come in a manual AWD because the chassis and handling characteristics are phenomenal. It's actually crazy how good the chassis and suspension is on this car. It drives like a little go kart and when you have slightly bigger tires this thing just grips..... and grips..... and grips.

Have absolutely scared passengers s***less with what this thing can pull off going up and down the canyons here near Park City where I live. Absolute crazy little machine that can keep up with the most hyped cars handling-wise (civic type r etc.....)

And you're blessed with a very powerful engine that loves mods......... yet of course in typical nissan fashion this thing has an Achilles heel that is seemingly insurmountable.

The reality of the juke's transmission is this. It was designed as a city beater urban machine cruising around low rpm and putting around cities with practicality. Which is crazy to think they made an RS model and strapped some serious boy racer bucket seats to the damn thing.

Even more of a shame with how the CVT puts power down. It's actually fun as hell. This thing pulls like an electric car sort of and when modded putting down massive power it just feels crazy. If i put it in 2WD mode and floor it up hill when the tires are cold and it's a little damp outside the car zig zags across the road slightly. Just a fun time to be had by all.

Unfortunately all that fun ends when you realize that pull you did just cost you 0.5% of your transmission lifespan. This car could have a floating health bar over it or a "CVT life" monitor on the dash that whenever you do a pull the meter goes down like a video game showing how much you've hurt your jukey and preparing your wallet for another 3 thousand dollar trans replacement.

Alas, the AWD Juke is nothing but a fraud unfortunately. Anyone that says otherwise is fooling themselves. This transmission cannot handle abuse. That's all there is to say about it. You could take a bone stock BRAND NEW awd juke and do massive damage to the transmission if you took it out to a track for even an hour. Hell, I could cook a trans taking up the canyon in about 2 hours of abuse guaranteed.

It truly is a sad state of affairs at the end of the day......
Good points. These cars are fun because they don't weigh much. I don't have modded wheels/tires/suspension like yours but I can believe they can corner amazing. The rear torque vectoring is magic compared to being in FWD mode, like a different planet. I'd imagine lowered and with sticky 200 treadwear tires and the AWD vectoring it would be amazing.

The reliability is bad with your level of power, no doubt. I know you have the Level10 CVT upgrade but let's be honest they only touched the valvebody. Dropping $3k sucks no doubt especially if the transmission doesn't last a reasonable period of time. I'm looking at a $2000-$2500 clutch upgrade w/labor @ 45,000 miles on my EVO X, so don't feel too bad. I seem to have smoked the clutch one too many times thanks the the heavy vehicle weight and light flywheel, comes with the territory.

Actually, I would point to Hondata running their Honda Civic 1.5L turbo on a road course for 6 hrs as proof that a CVT tuned right can survive. They tore down that CVT transmission and the CVT belt looked brand new. That was with their 210-220 w.h.p. CVT tune. I think they started having problems at the 250-260 lb-ft @ wheels range or what they call +20% over their standard tune is where they said was the limit or reliability. Different car, but same physics. They had serious problems when the purposely brake torqued the CVT transmission, they smoked the belt pretty quickly. So it all depends.

Can the Juke AWD run a road course? I believe YES it can. Couple problems here. Firstly, a real CVT cooling system is needed. Not those ******** NAPA trans coolers with no fans. It would have to be serious especially with having to dissipate all that upgraded power. Second, the rear differential would also need a cooler like the Ford Focus RS does. Mine overheats when I lock the CVT into AWD mode, the car goes into a mild form of limp mode driving on the street after awhile. A rear differential cooler with a small Fanpack and compact oil pump would do wonders for the Juke on a road coarse. The high lateral-g cornering is a problem when getting on the power which seems to freak out the CVT and unlocks the torque converter in response. If the converter clutch solenoid can be over-riden to keep it pinned then this might not happen. It's those things that hurt the car during aggressive street/track driving. The CVT would be OK if the tuning was dialed back a bit to soften the boost hit and downshift torque hit.

Nothing is impossible.
 

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Read your post and agree with it.

Yes, the torque is an absolute killer. This is why insane juke making quite a bit more power than my car lasted (although who can say how it was driven). The low end torque hit is what ends this transmission (and ends any transmission technically but CVT even moreso)

The tune on my car is your typical low end 4 banger small turbo setup. Massive bottom end torque and dies out on the top. Not very good for the CVT.

At this point I pretty much have PTSD and when the car is fixed with a new trans ill probably think about getting rid of it because I can't ride it the way I want.

Edit: Oh and Gene, I forgot to add the fact about your Level 10 comment. It's actually worse than you said because I'm almost positive he takes a used trans and just replaces only the parts that it immediately needs in it. So you're getting a junked trans with some new random parts (or even salvaged parts from other trans that were working) and frankensteined with a "modified" valvebody. And by modified valvebody I mean he puts a shim in there to manipulate pressure which does nothing but freak the computer at. Lol
 

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With your driving style, probably won't ever last. The turbo is part of how to get the transmissions to last. Smaller turbos are no bueno. My EVO X runs a 16g compressor but a massive 12 cm turbine housing, that is fairly huge for a street car, but it's dual scroll so it starts spooling early but there is no huge massive hit. Turbo maybe is good for about 390 w.h.p. maxxed out. So the torque is always less than the horsepower. It's fairly flat around 300 lb-ft @ wheels but the power is approx. 340 w.h.p. Never am I afraid of the transmission imploding. You get used to it then start driving the car and not worrying so much.

That doesn't mean I don't hoon it whenever I want to, I'm almost always redlining it in every gear when I get that chance. But setup is the key, right turbo and boost mapping. That CVT has no chance with your torque at +250 w.t.q., not going to happen. If set up right maybe with max 225 lb-ft @ wheels ramping in slower you could then run it for more high rpm power than you are ever making now. I don't think that's too much of a sacrifice in torque, trade a little mid-range torque for an equal increase in top end horsepower. What might change that equation is weight savings, my plan is to take about 250 lbs off the car both in wheel/tire/brake and suspension/body. Then feed back about 20 lb-ft of torque as the strain will be potentially balance out. Heavy cars kill transmissions as certain as driving style does. So there are lots of angles to play to get the best of both worlds but it's not easy.

The Level 10 transmission is almost certainly just a valvebody modification, maybe new maybe a reman unit. We talked before about checking the ID tag and stamp codes for Date of manufacture. To me I can only focus on what I'm doing as I look at it from what failed....then fixing what failed. Never would I give someone a reman unit on a CVT, it's a giant waste of money as a new CVT is cheaper in the long run anyway and has all the new parts sitting right there waiting to upgrade.

Let me know when you post that CVT thread, will be interesting to understand what happened.
 

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Perfect for a manual AWD swap, and mitigate all these issues :D lol
 

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Discussion Starter #117
I haven't died I just have been occupied with this Subaru Baja swap and manual conversion I have been working on. It's my partners car and they don't like working in the cold so it has sat as lot a lover the winter because our small shop isn't heated and the big one isn't finished. That being said we almost have that car completely back together and ready to start. All that's left is to finish reinstalling the interior, button things up in the engine bay, bolt the suspension back up, and weld up an exhaust because aftermarket exhausts for Turbo Bajas aren't really available off the shelf.

As for the swap status I still need the same parts I needed before. I have been talking a bit with Lars Wolfe and he is checking to see if he has a spare pedal assembly because the only ones I have found listed online have been in the UK, worst case I will just buy them new from Nissan. The clutch and flywheel I will be ordering in a few weeks it will probably be something from ClutchMasters. The transfer case bracket and driveshaft will have to be figured out once we get to that point. It also came up in the Baja manual conversion I am wrapping up that I may also need to swap over the ABS computer from a manual car since CVT communicates directly with ABS computer.

The things that are still up in the air at this point are the ECU which will likely need to reflashed or swapped for everything to function correctly. The other thing is the differential controller which I have a few ideas about. The aftermarket controller I have slaves both electromagnetic clutch packs to a single output from the controller meaning I would lose torque vectoring. I have two possible solutions for this, either find a way to use the factory differential controller which would mean driving the car around with a can sniffer for a bit and then finding a way to replicate the can messages that would be sent from the CVT to the diff control module or using the aftermarket controller but modify the output from that to split the output to each of the rear wheels based of steering angle and secondary gyro sensor. I may reach out to DCCD Pro about a modified code version if they are willing to help with that otherwise I will just make a secondary box that does that myself with an arduino or something along those lines.

Yes I could just buy a manual AWD car and I probably will buy a Corolla GR when we eventually get them in the US but I wont be selling the Juke to do so. I don't do things because they are easy and more financially viable, I do them because I like challenging myself to do things that I haven't done before. I've done 5 manual conversions so far but I haven't done one on car that didn't come in manual configuration with that specific drivetrain layout. Even when I first bought my Juke I wanted to find a way to make this a reality. Should I be doing this with the car is my daily driver? Of course not but I have 4 cars plus my partners 3 cars and with working from home right now I don't really drive much at the moment anyways.

I may upload some videos of the swap to more more easily document the project as it progresses.

This is going to cost too much money and way too much trouble I doubt this is ever going to happen. Pipe dream see it to believe it. If you want AWD MT go the direct route just buy a car designed for it.
Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it can't be done. I already have a majority of the components needed for the swap and only have a few hurdles left to overcome. This is happening and I will be tearing my car apart soon to prove it.
 

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I can only give you credits for the effort , really looking forward to the end result if you make it happen .
Keep us posted !
 

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Discussion Starter #119
I emailed 2J Racing yesterday about flashing my CVT ECU and they said they can make it work with the CVT ECU as is and just remove any codes that would pop up. I emailed ask to see if it will require retaining the TCU and all related wiring for it and I am waiting on a reply. Either way this gets rid of one of the last big unknowns with the swap. I am going to order a clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate this week. The plan will be to start as soon as the Baja is out of the shop and I have had a chance to do my between project cleaning so the timeline will be about 2-3 weeks from now.
 
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I emailed 2J Racing yesterday about flashing my CVT ECU and they said they can make it work with the CVT ECU as is and just remove any codes that would pop up. I emailed ask to see if it will require retaining the TCU and all related wiring for it and I am waiting on a reply. Either way this gets rid of one of the last big unknowns with the swap. I am going to order a clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate this week. The plan will be to start as soon as the Baja is out of the shop and I have had a chance to do my between project cleaning so the timeline will be about 2-3 weeks from now.
Woot. Maybe one big step closer.

Any pics of the Baja ?. I loved those cars growing up.
 
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