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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, uh,
I kinda wanted to own a Jeep, but I accidentally typed "Juke" into Google instead
Just Kidding--
I got fed up shopping for Jeeps very quickly, they were expensive and you didn't get much more than an (admittedly) solid drivetrain and a piece of canvas to keep you dry.
The Juke had always caught my eye- a tall hatchback-crossover with exaggerated fender flares and some offroad rally styling cues... and then it all clicked together in my mind

I would have a Juke on one condition:

I would be solely responsible for turning a perfectly good Juke into something (it will probably not succeed at being) but has ALWAYS WANTED TO BE
(and because nobody seemed to be doing a build like this)
Except for those Russians from a couple weeks ago, that was pretty bada$$ (but doesn't count because it's a Juke shell on a 4x4 frame, just sayin')
But that was probably an indication that I should let people know that I'm working on this project pretty seriously, even though I'm broke and It's going to take forever.

So here's where I'm at, at this stage: about 1.5" lift, 245/65r17 - 29.5" tires - 2012 Juke SV AWD (of course), and honestly it's a pretty good setup it could stay this way... could*

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Land vehicle Vehicle Car Nissan juke Regularity rally

Vehicle Transport Car Land lot Road

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Nissan juke


I call her "Mavw Mawv" because it looks like a complete mess when you write it in all caps MAVWMAWV
and yes, I am insane.

Also shout out to NISMO Offroad, he is the OG and forum LEGEND, and I don't want to steal his thunder - even though this build is gonna get real obnoxious, I am certainly not the first person to do an offroad Juke build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey everybody, early February update!

I've been living with these 29.5s since August, each tire is a whopping 11lbs over stock and I've put around 6000 miles on them so far. It didn't affect the drivablity of the car NEARLY as much as I had initially feared and I have to say I probably drive my car even harder now than when I first got it.
I still enter tight right hand turns at 30mph, and always get to the front of the line at a stop light just so I can launch past everyone about 0-50 and then ease back down to whatever the speed limit is, lmao.

After about a month of driving I tested the speedometer and the odometer and the car was reading everything accurately, this is without me doing anything to the ecu whatsoever, it had relearned everything completely on it's own. My Juke has the SV trim with the navigation so I assume it recalculated it via GPS signals, but after reading through the service manuals, I have no idea if that is actually a thing.

That being said, I think the car has also adjusted how the CVT responds as well. It's probably a little bit slower 0-10mph, but everything past that pretty much feels the same.
I've gone from about 19-21mpg to about 17-19mpg according to the display, but like I said, I drive it way harder than before overall.

The only drawback I can really say is that when it was stock, I had gotten it up to 110mph in the middle of nowhere before I decided that was as fast as I wanted to go...
I just got back from a highway drive where it was open for a bit, so I put it to the floor and it just about maxed out at 95mph
let's call it a "responsible mod" because for the most part the fastest anyone really needs to drive on the highway is like 80.

I'm gonna go ahead and put it out there-- the way the car has handled this so far has made me feel pretty confident in pushing it further.
I'm not going to stop until I get to my absolute end-goal which is fabricated front control arms, another inch of lift, full fiberglass overfenders
and I kid you not, I will fit 33x11.5s under the Juke

And you can all go ahead and doubt me if you want, but I've spent the past year measuring and doing the math, and it should only rub a little bit on the front subframe at about 90% lock.
Because of course they'll rub, it's 33s on a Juke, I may be crazy, but at least I'm honest about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From the 215/55r17s it's a 12% difference
That should translate to 12% more distance traveled per tire rotation
If that's the case then my car should be traveling 12% faster than the speedometer, and the odometer should be 12% less than the actual miles I've traveled.
As far as I can tell this does not seem to be happening; I took a 1300 mile round trip to Charleston WV and when I got back the trip meter was just a little over 1300, without any sort of correction, it should have been about 1100.
I can also most definitely vouch for the speed, especially driving next to people on the highway, 70 is 70, faster traffic is about 80, and 80 definitely does not feel like 90

And I mostly drive on the highway at 80, so if I was actually doing 90 in a 65, I probably should have been arrested by now, lol.

But yeah I can understand that 12% really isn't that much, and I hear that most speed enforcement has to be lenient within 7-10% specifically because of differences in tire size and tire wear
My stock tires were so bald when I changed them, I measured them at 25.5" which is ridiculous

Maybe in about a year, year and a half or so, I'll be ready for the 33s and we can test it again :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Backstory:

Here's behind the scenes of what I've been working on over the last year+.

As early as December 2015, I downloaded a free model of the Juke just to try and prototype some ideas; I knew I wanted to bring out the offroad look I could see in the Juke, so I modeled some meaty tires, fender flares, classic Juke-R spoiler (which I keep going back and forth on whether or not I like it) I come to find out later that the fenders among other things are so far off, it's incredible I worked on it for so long, but I developed a look I was happy with on a platform that I was not yet sure would work...
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Nissan juke Automotive design


I tried to do as much research as possible, finding only a handful of other offroad builds, but it was difficult to find very specific references for the stock suspension, clearances of fenders, and what is behind all of that plastic and sheet metal if I do decide I need to cut something.

After about a year and a half of that, I was running out of resources. There was no way I could continue the project without first hand experience of a Nissan Juke, and I had to ask myself the question "do I believe enough in this project to invest real time and money into it?"
So, I went out mid-August of 2017 and purchased the first car I ever owned - completely based on the fantasy that I would one day make this a respectable off road vehicle - a 2012 Nissan Juke SV AWD
For good or for worse.
Not exactly the cleanest example, but if I'm going to hack it to bits, it probably sounds about right.

I invested fairly early on in a high quality 3D model of the gen1 Juke, which was about $60, but has been totally worth it as far as visualization
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Sport utility vehicle Nissan juke


The model is not a perfect 1:1, but many of the proportions are very close. For the important sections I still depended heavily on manual measurements off the vehicle, and for a few things I even scanned via photogrammetry, which I still tend not to trust, but makes for a good reference.

Fast forward, and funny story, I decided that 1.25" spacers would work best to sit flush with the arches... realized later I actually bought 35mm spacers "with 1.25 studs" but it worked out fine
I had modeled everything out: 17x7 ET+47, 35mm spacers, inner front fenders, strut placement, etc...
I was so worried about rubbing, that I thought for a while the biggest tire I was going to be able to fit was a Cooper 235/60 AT
But when I factored out the pinch welds (which was a big 'IF') and accounted for the space outside of the liners, it was borderline inconclusive whether a 245/65 would fit
I was browsing Discount Tire one day and I was checking out on the 245/65 Nittos to see how much the shipping would be...
It turns out they never give you a shipping page-- it just puts in the order to the store, they get shipped there and then you pay for them at the store.

So I kinda bought the tires on complete accident as well, and then I also had only a week to make sure the front end was ready for them before I had to go and get them installed.
I'm glad it happened like that, though, because it had been an entire year and I had only gotten as far as the spacers and the lift kit :p

I cut the liners, bent the pinch welds back (Hastily) cut slivers off the plastic over-fenders
--And then they went on, it rubbed pretty good reversing out of the shop, but I drove all the way home and it barely rubbed. Over the next week or so I was able to mount the liners and finish up the pinch weld to where it never rubbed again.

Not only was it shocking to me that it was possible, it meant that my CAD solution had created a real-world result.
And that means that I have the power to push the envelope to see what's possible, without having to rely on real world brute force and trial & error.

I never realized how much I curse until I have to show these videos to actual people. It's all lighthearted with me though, and it's all to convey my genuine amazement over my accomplishment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I tried to get some mudflaps on when I went to Virginia, but I couldn't do anything on the front. I actually managed to get the rear OEM molded ones to fit back on, but they look pretty pathetic, because the tire sticks out 2 inches past it now, haha
Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mac was right

I got a GPS speedometer app and got a chance where I could hold 60mph for a couple minutes and it read 67 steadily
The trip meter read 6.2 miles and the app said I had gone 7.0 (12% off)

The Juke had lulled me into a false sense of security with it ease to drive and I had believed it based entirely on poorly estimated self-derived information

I should have figured my baseline was off, because it's Florida. EVERYBODY in the state does about 10 over (and extra mileage on my Virginia trip could have been a fluke.)

Thoroughly disgusted in myself now, because I tend to watch the road more than my speedometer (the way it ought to be) but when I do look down I'm usually about 10 over by my speedo
That means in some cases I'm very blatantly driving 15-20mph over the speed limit CONSTANTLY; and the worst part is I'm doing it so complacently that it feels normal.
10 over is fine by me, but now I feel like a full blown criminal, so I'll have to come to terms with that. :nevreness:
It's seriously a miracle I still have a license.

So that 95 pull I did the other day? probably safe to say that was about 110.
The reason why that fact is so bizarre to me is that the last time I did 110 it was scary as hell and I thought I was going to fly off the road and my engine was going to explode...
With the increased height, increased sidewall and increased scrub radius, it somehow managed to handle better than stock?

I'm sure a lot of you have your Jukes built for REAL performance who have actual experience on how to make a Juke handle better than stock, so in all honesty mine's probably not THAT much better than stock, but I am staggeringly impressed with how the Juke is operating on this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Walked outside the other day and decided that I'm disappointed.

My tires are just too dang small, and it doesn't even look lifted! I guess 1.5" of lift and going up 3" on tires kind of visually cancels itself out. Even more aggressive tires are in the works, along with some pretty aggressive ideas to maximize the lift, which I ended up emailing Matt over at Fast Religion for some guidance-- but those ideas are taking too long, and I want results! So against any sort of better judgement, I've dropped just short of a grand on a full BC Coilover system. Considering I was very close to spending $500+ on Fox Reservoir shocks just for the rear (and just for bragging rights) the coilovers are probably the smart move, especially following the precedent set by Nismo Offroad and the custom spring rate setup on his BC's.

Most people start off with the small mods, like a pulley or a CVT cooler would have probably been a good idea a while ago...

but, priorities, man.


In other news, I finally fixed my stock shocks not being long enough to cope with the lift. I ended up buying some 2" shock extenders off the shelf and tapping them out to 3/8 20 thread so that they would screw on to the stem. Actually I should say I bought two sets and tapped them out, because I accidentally tightened one of them too much and sheared one of them (baffling, because it couldn't have been more than like 20ft/lb with a socket) Which is really why I was so eager to find a custom application shock upgrade because I don't have very much faith in those extensions after that.
The shock extensions were at the recommendation of Nismo Offroad, again. He said he had some problems with extending the shocks that came with the BC kit, I wonder probably because the dampening adjustment is at the top of the stem? I will probably have to explore a different solution to extend them, or just make due with the modified stock shocks for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Haha yes, they are the screw on top style ones, what a hassle those were! I saw a bunch of different types of "shock extensions" but most of the time they were all unclear as to the application, bolt size, mounting size etc. I never came across that one, but I also never thought to search "eyelet to eyelet". (I probably should have followed up on that PM I sent, lmao)
I see this one on summit racing, now. $60 sounds like a lot, considering the screw on ones were only about $10, but if I've got this right, the shocks from BC have the comp/damp adjustment at the top of the stem and sits inside the vehicle? The eyelet one is probably the only one that would work with them.

Did you have to put washers in to mount them properly? Looks like there's about 1.75" between the tabs on the Juke, and most shocks only need 1.25"
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
WOAH
WOOOOOAAAAAH
So I've been back and forth with BC trying to get their coilovers with custom spring rates and they've been heavily pushing against it, and they keep telling me that their coilover bodies can only support slightly less than stock height or lower.
I did a little research (and this is why I'm excited) I found the company Silver's North America who offers their NEOMAX coilover kit for the Nissan Juke. After emailing them about the kit and very carefully bringing up the idea of a lift, THEY SAID YES.
I asked them specifically about building the coilovers around a taller shock body, and to quote their response:

"Not a problem at all! We do a lot of extended travel Subaru coilovers so it is not anything too difficult."

I honestly don't think I've read any two sentences better than that. The search is over, all ye who want to lift weirdo vehicles!
Silver's will build you custom length coilovers. This is breaking news, so I'm going to ask a few more questions, but I think this is the direction I'm going to go in.

The NEOMAX coilovers are independently height adjustable, much like the BC Coilovers and are comparable in a lot of ways, but the base NEOMAX kit is about $100 more than the base BC kit, honestly a drop in the bucket considering they are manufactured domestically. In Ft. Myers Florida no less, I could literally drive there and pick them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yep, Firedan50. That's actually a really nice thread, I must've missed it when it was first posted. I actually found Sliver's because I watched a video randomly about "the best coilover companies", and something about what they said made me really want to check them out.
Seeing the images on his thread only make me more into this kit, it comes with adjustable sway bar links? I'm sold. Now I just have to go back and re-measure the clearances on the front so I can let them know how big to make them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Will you be throwing in longer rear coils or just be running the spacers in the rear with longer shocks?
Rear coil springs will be included with the kit just like most of the other coilover kits out for the Juke. The key is finding the right spring to try and avoid the need for spacers. Since they are making custom length struts, it's not too much of a stretch to assume they'll give me the correct size rear shocks as well.
According to Firedan's post and information from Silver's, the kit comes with an adjustable perch the rear spring sits on, as well as the rear shock length is fully adjustable. The kit also comes with adjustable front sway bar links, which is a really good addition for any major change in ride height.

https://www.jukeforums.com/forum/ni...s/219819-silvers-neomax-coilover-install.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Get these and Paint them Orange when you screw the fender trim to the Juke !!!

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-Collection-H603-Black/dp/B003ZOLWGE/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_8
That is a great idea Mac! I'll probably wait until June or whatever when I get my car back from Matt. I think that would make the unfinished plastic not look so bad.
The bolts I bought have a 16mm diameter extra large head, which is really close to the 5/8" for the caps, so it should look pretty much identical to mine when you do it.
I did get hung up on a few things with mounting, but I recorded a lot of the steps, so I'll edit together a video at some point and probably post it in the Body and Appearance section.

If I had to do it again though, I would skip the top center bolt entirely on the rear flares (just under the fuel door) because it visually messes with the intervals too much. and believe me when I say it'll be plenty sturdy without it.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
PS- when you go to lift your Juke (assuming you're keeping the Nissan wheels), it would look rad to get some meaty tires and bring the wheels out to flush (or even beyond flush for your application). Just talking aesthetics, because I have no idea if there would be good reasons not to do those things. How did you do that little yellow slice of color on the doors? I really like that, if I could find the right orange.
I have the factory rims on 35 mm spacers, and the tires I have now are about 9 inch section width, so they already stick out quite a bit.
I do have my eyes on a set of aftermarket wheels and tires that I've been thinking about trolling that thread with, needless to say the setup would be "endgame"

Believe it or not, those decals are actually 5-6 coats of plasti-dip, 2 coats of valspar orange, a couple passes of plasti-dip's metalizer, and 2 coats of clear coat-- and it looks way worse up close :fat:
I pretty much painted it in a parking lot next to a freeway in the middle of the night a week before Halloween (2017) with an impending lightning storm on its way, so I pretty much put 10 coats of various spray paints in succession in the span of about 2 hours.

I did record the whole process, not particularly helpful to anyone, but considering the circumstances, it's pretty entertaining.


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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thank you Nismo! Yeah a vinyl style decal probably would have taken 5 minutes, but the colors that vinyl auto wraps are made in are still surprisingly limited.
Yeah I put a lot of effort into that intro just because I thought it would be cool to have something, but the design and specifics have changed so much since then. I believe that iteration was before I had considered any control arm modification. It may have even been before I decided to get 245/65 back when I thought I could only fit 235/60, so all my mods were small so that I didn't get my expectations up too much.
Currently, the model is batsh*t insane with a 95% chance of actually working flawlessly

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I'm just gonna leave this here, and I'm gonna go bother the Aftermarket Wheels and Tires thread with my CAD setup :witless:

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thank you for your concern, Juklear. I am only insane by title, but I am realistic, and I wouldn't feel comfortable sharing these concepts if I didn't think these kind of goals were realistic.
Well I'm mostly talking about the wheels and control arm situation, everything else up there is mostly fluff. Might look into doing the tire carrier next.

Yes those are widebody flares I've designed to match what the Juke already has goin' on. 12th revision; very difficult thing to get to look right, it's not really a 'generic bolt on and call it a day', these things stick out about ~5" from the body each side.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive design Off-road vehicle

oh, this time color matched I guess because I forgot to change it back and now I'm too lazy to re-render it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
In my design it only bolts to the door because there would be nothing left of the metal that holds the stock fender flares to clear 33 inch tires

I know of someone nearby who can CNC foam blocks, so I was thinking about getting bucks made and fiberglassing over them. It would just take a lot of time and space to make them, also having a 3D model is almost cheating, I've seen a few people on youtube who carve expanding foam and the fiberglass over that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yeah a lot of rocket bunny stuff looks really good, but there's something about the Juke that just looks really weird with small wheels to me, I really prefer the style of the Juke-R or even the bolt on fenders like you have and Mike Gorman's Insane Juke that Fast Religion built. Project Insane Juke was actually one of the things that made me realize "oh so I guess you can do really crazy things with wheel and tire setups on the Juke, maybe I should buy one already"

I did a lot of research on hatch mounted spares, but as the tires I was looking at got bigger and bigger, there was just no way in a million years it would work with any amount of support. The final 33 inch spare is going to weigh 90lbs on it's own, not to mention all the Cherokee's and such with full size spares look horrendous in even minor rear end collisions. The current concept is actually a swing out tire carrier mounted through the plastic bumper into the body just under the tail lights.

There are a lot of really good hitch mounted spare setups, but I figure if I'm going for an offroad build I should try and maximize approach and departure angle.

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Finally found time to measure suspension earlier. I was able to boil down the numbers into terms I can think about.

Measuring for wheel travel, the rear was very impressive. All of these measurements are taken from the bottom of the fender arch to the center of the wheel.
Current ride height is 18.375, Stock (Courtesy of some dude's Juke in a parking lot) 16.625. so those 45mm spacers got me 1.75" of lift, the math checks out.
I unbolted the shock and sway bar link and the rear control arms dropped to a final distance of 22.625" from the fenders. For compressed height, I'm creating a target, which is the radius of my final tire setup (16.5" for 33's) subtracting the fender flare itself for when I cut it away. Which gives me about 8.5" of wheel travel in the rear.

Front is much less interesting, as it turns out the fully relaxed stock strut with a 30mm spacer on top already maxes out the droop on the front control arm (21.125), but my target ride height should still sit comfortably above that.
Current front ride height is 17.125, curiously only 1" above stock 16.125, should be closer to 1.25". Maybe my front springs are a little worn out.
This leaves me with about 6.75" of wheel travel in the front, but without a modified control arm that will drop further, that number will have to work for now.
I'm aiming for 2.5" of lift, which should work fine in the front, but the rear can handle 3" easily. This should get me to 18.625 and 19.625 front and rear.

That would be about a 4" gap from the fenders in the front and a 5" gap in the rear on the current setup.

Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Wheel Alloy wheel
Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Car Auto part


Considering the most nuts Subaru long travel build I've seen was about 10-11" of wheel travel, under 7" is a little lackluster. I could get another inch or so with control arms, and maybe cut a little further above the front fender and probably match 8.5". Of course I'm sandbagging the uptravel by about 1.5" by crunching the numbers on 33's rather than the 29.5's I have now. I could easily go for 10-11" rear and 8-9" front but I want to be realistic and leave myself open for future mods.

But 6" of uptravel means I should be able to jump small curbs at a pretty good speed :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Are you not running into lack of power from a stop? Hell with 225/60/17 on mine juke right now, before it warms up, it barely has power to reverse out of my driveway. lol.
Yeah she's still plenty fast, as a Juke should be. It's one of the reasons I haven't touched anything under the hood yet because I haven't felt like I needed to. Also I live in hot as hell Florida and it takes 15 seconds to reach operating temp.
 
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