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2nd Gen. 2016 Juke with a second tranny replacement

509 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  speedoflife
I'm having a second Tranny put in as we speak....Just wondering if anybody out there who's had a second tranny put in from the factory has had the same issues or different from the original tranny over time. Or didn't have any issues at all.
I know the tranny from the factory are not brand new they are rebuilt. So kinda puts a bad taste in my mouth if they are reliable or not.....All you get is 1yr. or 12000 mile warranty.

Thanks
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the v2 CVT's are pretty robust, they don't fail anywhere near as often as the v1. You may want to reconsider your maintenance schedule and your driving method. Frequent fluid exchanges help prolong CVT life and very, very, very gentle acceleration helps as well. Hard acceleration or lots of full throttle will reduce the CVT's over-all life span.
the v2 CVT's are pretty robust, they don't fail anywhere near as often as the v1. You may want to reconsider your maintenance schedule and your driving method. Frequent fluid exchanges help prolong CVT life and very, very, very gentle acceleration helps as well. Hard acceleration or lots of full throttle will reduce the CVT's over-all life span.
Well that's the problem my wife drives the car and she drives like a old lady anyways lol The car has only 74000 pampered miles on it and fluid was changed about 14000 mile ago. The valve body failed on it. What causes that ,who knows.
Valve body typically fail because metal debri scores/jams the pistons & bores. They can be rebuilt/cleaned but it doesn't address the piston damage. Overheating will kill the solenoids. This is a common problem on all valvebodies whether it's a DSG, Automatic, or CVT. The CVT valve bodies are prone to failure, it's crazy common. If you stay on top of your oil changes religiously and swap internal filters and clear the pan magnets this IMHO would be hugely beneficial. I would not put any valvebody good past 60,000 miles regardless and I plan on fully replacing or rebuilding much earlier than that. It can prevent a complete transmission failure if caught early but generally the CVT simply wear out really quickly if not maintained, driven hard in hot conditions, etc. An external cooler also wouldn't be a bad idea. I got about 70,000 miles out of my valvebody before I was forced to replace it, it only helped a little bit but delayed the inevitable. These transmissions like to be surgically clean and the oil pump and valvebody would benefit from it.

It makes sense to get a Nissan reman directly from Nissan, they are also the cheapest by a large margin if you wait for the periodic sales. I use Bill Kay Nissan but any local Nissan would save you about $200 in shipping and the core return & shipping back. The factory have made internal revisions/improvements and your best chance is with a factory reman though I cannot confirm that I personally have many of the factory revised/improved parts in my own Gen1 CVT. The Gen2 have some slight improvements in the valvebody and pulley slider pins and a different pushbelt over the Gen1. Whether that's better or not is tough to say but my opinion is this isn't a measurable improvement other than the pulley slider pins vs. ball bearings. The oil pump is the same which is a known problem and the clutches are identical which is also a problem, and the belt is different but not better either though for a stock vehicle would be plenty good if the valvebody didn't fail which they do anyway.

Whether driving easy or not will help you.....not sure. My opinion here: The valvebody is constantly cycled and at high pressures if driven hard.....so technically yes it would help to go easy on it. I believe a really aggressive maintenance schedule could make the difference without worrying about how you drive it. I personally will not drive easy on my CVT but I will follow my own advice and replace the CVT oil often and run the CVT oil that I believe would make a significant difference in valvebody or pushbelt wear, plus a good aftemarket CVT cooling system.
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Recommending 60k interval on CVT fluid service was one of the worst things Nissan did with the Juke. CVTs are getting worn to bits out there for the non-enthusiast owners who just followed the service manual and are already out of warranty once the first service is due.

30k-35k intervals and drive it care-free.
Valve body typically fail because metal debri scores/jams the pistons & bores. They can be rebuilt/cleaned but it doesn't address the piston damage. Overheating will kill the solenoids. This is a common problem on all valvebodies whether it's a DSG, Automatic, or CVT. The CVT valve bodies are prone to failure, it's crazy common. If you stay on top of your oil changes religiously and swap internal filters and clear the pan magnets this IMHO would be hugely beneficial. I would not put any valvebody good past 60,000 miles regardless and I plan on fully replacing or rebuilding much earlier than that. It can prevent a complete transmission failure if caught early but generally the CVT simply wear out really quickly if not maintained, driven hard in hot conditions, etc. An external cooler also wouldn't be a bad idea. I got about 70,000 miles out of my valvebody before I was forced to replace it, it only helped a little bit but delayed the inevitable. These transmissions like to be surgically clean and the oil pump and valvebody would benefit from it.

It makes sense to get a Nissan reman directly from Nissan, they are also the cheapest by a large margin if you wait for the periodic sales. I use Bill Kay Nissan but any local Nissan would save you about $200 in shipping and the core return & shipping back. The factory have made internal revisions/improvements and your best chance is with a factory reman though I cannot confirm that I personally have many of the factory revised/improved parts in my own Gen1 CVT. The Gen2 have some slight improvements in the valvebody and pulley slider pins and a different pushbelt over the Gen1. Whether that's better or not is tough to say but my opinion is this isn't a measurable improvement other than the pulley slider pins vs. ball bearings. The oil pump is the same which is a known problem and the clutches are identical which is also a problem, and the belt is different but not better either though for a stock vehicle would be plenty good if the valvebody didn't fail which they do anyway.

Whether driving easy or not will help you.....not sure. My opinion here: The valvebody is constantly cycled and at high pressures if driven hard.....so technically yes it would help to go easy on it. I believe a really aggressive maintenance schedule could make the difference without worrying about how you drive it. I personally will not drive easy on my CVT but I will follow my own advice and replace the CVT oil often and run the CVT oil that I believe would make a significant difference in valvebody or pushbelt wear, plus a good aftemarket CVT cooling system.
Thanks for that well explained thread. What I don't like when the fluid is changed its only half. For almost $300...changing it every 30000 is a must but its crazy. Believe me once we get it back we are getting rid of it, the wife will be upset but you know what I'll get something better. The good thing about the whole thing is the extended warranty that nissan put on the CVT and we fell just right into it.
The dealership does not necessarily change only half the fluid.
The dealership does not necessarily change only half the fluid.
I watched them do it and charged me 5 Qts. And it takes almost 10 if i'm correct. But I know only 5 qts can come out anyways
Agreed about them only changing out 5 qts. This is why members do their own. Requires about 10-12 qts. for multiple flushes and then its 85-90% swapped. I pay about $150 for 12 qts. plus the cartridge filter and sump filter & gasket maybe another $50. I ran AMSOIL fluid which has superior clutch & belt traction than the factory fluid but factory NS-3 works if you change it often. It's crazy expensive but considering a CVT replacement is ~$4500 it's actually financially cheaper to swap fluid/filters every 15,000 miles if not earlier. The CVT don't just break immediately but you can see where frequent oil changes and any type of cooling would be beneficial, they just wear down quicker than they should.

If you get it all fixed up then definitely makes sense given your situation to look for something different. Shouldn't be tough to get a good price on it, my dealership are always trying to get me to sell them my Juke but they always complain no one wants to give them up.
Both times I had fluid service, I was not line item billed for the fluid, only for the service. If you tell them to drain and fill, that's what you will get. If you request cvt fluid service, which I have always done, it it a flat rate, around $200ish.

I usually have carbon buildup/throttle body aka "seafoam" service done at the same time to try to get a deal or use a higher tier coupon.
Well 2nd tranny installed at no cost. Very lucky only had 6 months left on extended tranny warranty that Nissan implemented a year ago or so..Time to get rid of it now, I don't trust any CVT's at all.
Its pretty sad even Nissan told me get rid of it while you can. Dealer mechanic told me every time they see a Juke roll in for repair..They say "Ah Crap a Juke rolled in" What Now!!!
Well 2nd tranny installed at no cost. Very lucky only had 6 months left on extended tranny warranty that Nissan implemented a year ago or so..Time to get rid of it now, I don't trust any CVT's at all.
Its pretty sad even Nissan told me get rid of it while you can. Dealer mechanic told me every time they see a Juke roll in for repair..They say "Ah Crap a Juke rolled in" What Now!!!
Yes get rid of it. 2016 Juke here. 30k oil change interval. Had it in a transmission shop to drop the pan at 60k miles. Another oil change and a few thousand miles later the transmission is dead at 90k. Love the car but now I’m making payments on a brick.
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