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2015 Juke Nismo RS AWD
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Discussion Starter #1
I’m trying to source the 2J Pulley for my AWD Juke Nismo RS but the only place I can find one is direct from 2J Racing but I’m in the UK and according to their shipping quotation it’s going to cost me the same amount as if I was to buy 2 pulleys, surely there must be a closer reseller that I can purchase it from?

I’m seeing rave reviews about it but I just can’t justify paying double for it just because of the shipping.
 

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Not sure where you can buy one other than 2J.

I regretted installing mine. For a CVT, I'd recommend against it. Also causes crankshaft oil seal leaks.
 
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Reach out to 2J directly and talk to them about the part and/or shipping. They may or may not be able to work something out with you.

I have the lightweight pulley on my engine with CVT. I can't say I ever noticed any difference pre/post install. It's not a part I recommend upgrading unless you're doing some serious engine mods. I never had an issue with oil leak and to my knowledge the shop didn't replace the crankshaft oil seal, but it seems like a fair number of people experience leaks.
 

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As others noted it's a pointless bit. It risks leaks and makes no difference. Removing a feathers worth of rotating weight on the engine isn't going to mean anything.
 

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Mine didn't leak, but the launching performance suffered. On my built motor I won't run it as there already isn't enough weight on the pulley side to counteract the torque converter rotational weight. I believe the lightweight pulley doesn't dampen the engine pulsations. I won't run one under any circumstances.
 

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2015 Juke Nismo RS AWD
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Discussion Starter #6
Well this is unexpected, after seeing almost nothing but positive reactions towards the 2J Pulley this is the first time I’m seeing recommendations of not installing it, especially on a CVT, I’d already known about the seal as I was prepared to buy a replacement gasket anyway but do they really not make much difference for the CVT models compared to stock??

So would it be wise to spend the money on another bolt-on instead? If so what is recommended foremost for CVT RS’s (FL)?
 

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You are replacing a harmonic damper with an aluminum pulley. Not much weight savings overall, but it also will not dampen crankshaft vibrations. This can have negative consequences both in terms of longevity and performance. Full race engines use a damper for a reason. I actually wish someone would reach out to a company like ATI to get them to build a performance damper especially for this engine.

189025
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So would it be wise to spend the money on another bolt-on instead? If so what is recommended foremost for CVT RS’s (FL)?
A Tune. Yes it's more expensive, but it's hands down the best mod per dollar even with no other mods. On a CVT Nismo RS, you already have a higher boost level from the factory, so you won't gain much more compared to tuning a CVT S, SV, or SL. Regardless, it's still the best mod for these engines. Everything else you add will just be for show or sound as the stock ECU will adjust everything to negate or "nerf" any performance those parts claim to add.
 
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2013 Juke NISMO AWD CVT
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I had the 2J pulley on my B16 Sentra with a CVT... It was lowered on stiff af coils with bracing on strut towers and undercarriage and the pulley caused significant vibrations throughout the body due to lack of balancer.
 

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2015 Juke Nismo RS AWD
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Discussion Starter #10
On a CVT Nismo RS, you already have a higher boost level from the factory, so you won't gain much more
I had been thinking of getting it tuned shortly after I got it but then ran into forum posts regarding the CVT not being able to handle much more power than what it currently runs at on the RS, is that true?

Ideally I’d like a bit more power but also to keep the longevity of the CVT, I’m already on top of the fluid changes but have many people on here had their RS’s mapped with a CVT?
 

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Well this is unexpected, after seeing almost nothing but positive reactions towards the 2J Pulley this is the first time I’m seeing recommendations of not installing it, especially on a CVT, I’d already known about the seal as I was prepared to buy a replacement gasket anyway but do they really not make much difference for the CVT models compared to stock??

So would it be wise to spend the money on another bolt-on instead? If so what is recommended foremost for CVT RS’s (FL)?
Yes, it's a waste on a CVT vehicle in my experience. It's not a money issue, the low end performance hit wasn't tolerable, especially on a CVT. The high rpm gains were there if ever so slightly, not worth the tradeoff. This is counter to everything you might read but it's exactly how removing weight from the crankshaft works. Possibly the ECM didn't enjoy having the weight removed in addition, but the CVT need some flywheel/crankshaft mass to get a decent launch, which is the Achilles heal of the CVT. Similar to how my WRX STi with it's 20 lb flywheel launches much harder than my EVO X and it's 14 lb flywheel. The tables get turned at higher rpms where the lighter weight helps, but on the lowend it actually hurts. Nothing is for free.

The crankshaft harmonics are another contentious topic. I will not remove the pulley from my vehicle to gain +5 h.p., the risk to an engine isn't worth it. The crank bearings take a hammering and despite what anyone says about it NOT being a harmonic balancer, the physical weight difference is having some effect and crank harmonics. The CVT torque converter is heavy, now on the opposite end you've removed any counter balancing weight on the front of the crankshaft. No one here can tell you what the effects will be long term. I've inspected the main bearings and there definitely is a difference in wear due to differences in how the crank flexes and the bearing location, I'd really not want to mess with that. The elastomer ring is typically used for NVH purposes and some will argue that's all it's for, but I don't think that's the case.

Spend your money on any of the other typical bolt-ons.
 

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there are a few tuned RS with CVT on here. It's true, the CVT in the RS can't handle too much more power. there's no definite number, but it's estimated not much more than 230-240 lb-ft torque based on some parts analysis done on a recently torn down and rebuilt CVT that failed.

A good tuner will be able to give you that extra power you're looking for. The longevity of the CVT also depends on how you drive it (read some of the other threads especially posted recently).

You say you have a Nismo RS, but you registered your account from the UK (indicated by the flag next to your username). If you truly have a 1.6L turbo engine North America Juke (MR16DDT engine code) then you have two options for tuning: UpRev or ECUTek. I recommend going UpRev and the tuner Drunkmann Tuning (search the forum and google for him).
 
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I can't really say if it helped or not due to having it installed along with lightweight wheels, better tires, mid pipe, and catback. All i remember is that as soon as it hit 3K rpm it took off much faster.
Now, i have installed on my "new" NISMO with only the midpipe and catback and its not the same. I think lighter wheels and tires helped more the the pulley.
 

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So strange. Only a few years ago the forums consensus was that the pulley was a great bang-for-the-buck mod, going way back to what, 2011?

Aside from the oil seal issue (fixed by installing new, $10 seal during pulley install), I haven't seen anything negative about them here, until now.
 
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The forums are full of people who either propagate ********, or need a dyno run to prove everything. That's great, buy one and test it yourself.

Use rational, common sense how removing weight off a crankshaft could possibly allow a car to have more low end torque, the claim made by this part. You ever heard of a lightweight flywheel helping launch a car harder? Hell no. I have to slip the clutch on my EVO X like mad to outlaunch a Camry, but from 5000 rpms I'll overshoot the 7400 rpm fuel cutout, that's how fast it revs.

The CVT don't like the reduced crankshaft weight. The ECM/TCM did not like it, it was artificial to how it responded. I have no proof why it didn't, because almost all other mods produce nice gains on the CVT. I datalogged to find out precisely why this was the case, could find nothing obvious. Could not stand the gutless low end torque and after about a month switched back to stock. My car was never faster or launched harder once I removed it. I cleaned the barely used part and promptly sold it cause I knew I would never go back.

Buy what you like.
 

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@pboglio Yep. I still have mine on my car and have considered removing it countless times due to the issue of what you're saying. You combine the lightweight pulley with having your AC on and that thing drives like an absolute piece of s*** from a stop. It's legit dangerous if you're trying to make a left hand turn into oncoming traffic, the car just feels like it has NOTHING.
 

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Slcjuke,

I'm not surprised. I'd just pull it off and enjoy the improvement.
 
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