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I have a 2012 Nissan Juke sl awd. This morning on my way to work all was fine for about the first 5-10 min everything acted normal. All the sudden it stay between 4-6,000 rpms and wouldn’t shift. I know the CVTs don’t shift but that’s how I’m gonna explain it. After I left go off the gas and slowed down it went back to normal. After about another 5 min I started to loose power. Eventually it got to the point where I had to drive about 15-35 mph the rest of the way to work because if I tired to accelerate it would just run the rpms up. It’s also making a really bad whining noise. Any help would greatly be appreciated!
 

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Sounds like your CVT is slipping.

When the computer detects the slipping, the car goes into “safe mode”

To help this, we recommend drain and fills of the NS-2 fluid every 30,000 miles.

You may need some new fluid or it may be some more serious CVT issues.
Alright so I just got it home and check the fluid and it’s full. I feel like it drives good and I honestly feel like it’s a turbo issue. It’s it possibly that it could be? Or do you think it’s a serious cvt problem?
 

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It could be the turbo but from your description it sounds like the CVT.

We do a drain and fill to REPLACE some of the old degraded CVT fluid. Not to make sure it is full.

Nissan recommends the fluid be changed at 60,000 miles. We recommend here to do a drain and fill every 30,000 miles, (I do it every 15,000 miles).

CVT fluid has a bunch of little rubber balls in it that help the belt and pulleys grip each other. Over time these rubber balls get pulverized. Heat and time is the enemy.

Search drain and fill for more info.
 

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It could be the turbo but from your description it sounds like the CVT.

We do a drain and fill to REPLACE some of the old degraded CVT fluid. Not to make sure it is full.

Nissan recommends the fluid be changed at 60,000 miles. We recommend here to do a drain and fill every 30,000 miles, (I do it every 15,000 miles).

CVT fluid has a bunch of little rubber balls in it that help the belt and pulleys grip each other. Over time these rubber balls get pulverized. Heat and time is the enemy.

Search drain and fill for more info.
do you recommend the Nissan cvt fluid or could I go to autozone and get the kind they have? Because I’m in a rough spot with it as I still owe on the car and it’s 89$ for 5quarts of the Nissan brand and it may not fix it. I could send you a video of me driving it down the road if that would help? But I also am not trying to make more problems.
 

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The general consensus is to stick with Nissan CVT fluid whenever possible. What mileage is on your Juke and has the CVT fluid ever been changed? Your issue sounds more CVT related than turbo related as others have reported the same thing happening with their Jukes.
 

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do you recommend the Nissan cvt fluid or could I go to autozone and get the kind they have? Because I’m in a rough spot with it as I still owe on the car and it’s 89$ for 5quarts of the Nissan brand and it may not fix it. I could send you a video of me driving it down the road if that would help? But I also am not trying to make more problems.
i personally haven’t changed the cvt fluid before. I bought it from a dealer with 97,000 miles and it curr
The general consensus is to stick with Nissan CVT fluid whenever possible. What mileage is on your Juke and has the CVT fluid ever been changed? Your issue sounds more CVT related than turbo related as others have reported the same thing happening with their Jukes.
I personally haven’t changed it. It had 97,000 miles when I bought it 2 1/2 years ago and it current has 132,000 miles. And I really never knew about how often you were suppose to change it until today when I started doing the research about it. But I’ll get online and order that cvt fluid.
 

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Some of us use Amsoil CVT fluid....
 

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Some of us use Amsoil CVT fluid....
Well I went ahead and got the cvt fluid from autozone because I’d have to wait a week and a half to 2 weeks for either of the other kinds to ship to me. And I didn’t have that long to wait. It seemed to help very little. The cars still doing the same thing but I do have a service engine soon light on now so I’m gonna get that scanned to see what it could be.
 

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If you do (3) drain and fills in a row, (driving 20-30 miles in between), you will change out about 90% of your fluid.

Or

You may have more damage inside the CVT.
When I drove it this time I was able to get all the way up to 60 pretty much with no problem I speed up slow tho. Then I stop and tried to build a little boost while doing it and it didn’t really seem to have any. I know you think it’s the cvt. But it really acts like it’s a turbo problem. I’ll see what codes it’s throwing and fill you in after that but right now I’m just gonna let it sit till then
 

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When you check the fluid level are you checking when the car has A) been warmed up, B) still running while in park, and C) on flat ground?

I think my CVT was a bit off because I was a bit low, as I was making the mistake of checking while the car was off. Something new to me, I have always checked fluids while the car was off.

Also you want to do a drain and fill the CVT oil every 30k miles. From your milage, it correlates with the fluid degrading and no longer transferring power to the drivelines.

The whine noise is another tell tale sign that the transmission is struggling. Like when a power steering systems is low on fluid type noise.

I am curious to see how this shakes out for you.
 

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When you check the fluid level are you checking when the car has A) been warmed up, B) still running while in park, and C) on flat ground?

I think my CVT was a bit off because I was a bit low, as I was making the mistake of checking while the car was off. Something new to me, I have always checked fluids while the car was off.

Also you want to do a drain and fill the CVT oil every 30k miles. From your milage, it correlates with the fluid degrading and no longer transferring power to the drivelines.

The whine noise is another tell tale sign that the transmission is struggling. Like when a power steering systems is low on fluid type noise.

I am curious to see how this shakes out for you.
i have checked it both while it was cold and semi warm and on level ground. Tonight after work I plan to let it run for about a half hour or so and try checking it again. Am I suppose to check it while it running or turned off? (I’ve done it while it’s been off). I also plan to buy 10 quarts of the amzoil cvt fluid and when that comes in change it out and see if that makes any difference. But it’s definitely the trans making the whining noise.
 

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i have checked it both while it was cold and semi warm and on level ground. Tonight after work I plan to let it run for about a half hour or so and try checking it again. Am I suppose to check it while it running or turned off? (I’ve done it while it’s been off). I also plan to buy 10 quarts of the amzoil cvt fluid and when that comes in change it out and see if that makes any difference. But it’s definitely the trans making the whining noise.
While it it is running and in park. Weird right? But thats the way the service manual says to do it.
I think I was running my a bit low, maybe a half a quart or so. Since my last cvt drain and fill a few weeks ago (amsoil), my gas milage has gone back to a more normal 23-24mpg. Before it was at 21-22. So I guess I was not running it at an appropriate fill level.

With the milage that you stated in a previous post, and if you are confident in doing so, I would pull the CVT pan and change the CVT filter. You will get more oil out of the system than a regular drain and fill. You will also be back to a fresh new CVT filter.

Good luck.
 

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While it it is running and in park. Weird right? But thats the way the service manual says to do it.
I think I was running my a bit low, maybe a half a quart or so. Since my last cvt drain and fill a few weeks ago (amsoil), my gas milage has gone back to a more normal 23-24mpg. Before it was at 21-22. So I guess I was not running it at an appropriate fill level.

With the milage that you stated in a previous post, and if you are confident in doing so, I would pull the CVT pan and change the CVT filter. You will get more oil out of the system than a regular drain and fill. You will also be back to a fresh new CVT filter.

Good luck.
I checked it while it was running and in park a 2 nights ago. It’s was a tad below the first indent in the dipstick. I added enough up to the second indent. Is that the correct level or should it go all the way up to the cross marks that are above both of them? I have amzoil coming tomorrow to possibly try that but I also have a shop appointment for Wednesday. So I guess I’ll find out soon. Does anyone know if it could possibly be a bad valve body? I’ve also noticed that when shifting from park to drive or reverse it takes 2-3 seconds for it to actually engage into gear.
 

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I’ve also noticed that when shifting from park to drive or reverse it takes 2-3 seconds for it to actually engage into gear.
That's not good that is one of the symptoms of a malfunctioning CVT. That along with your Juke not speeding up ie. limp mode and your mileage ~130K which seems to be around when the CVT starts to develop problems.
 

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Change that CVT fluid. It can do more good than bad. Might even free up some gummy valves in the valve body.
 

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Change that CVT fluid. It can do more good than bad. Might even free up some gummy valves in the valve body.
I’ve already tried that. Didn’t make a difference. It still wines. And starts to slip after a few min of driving. But the whining noise is constant. Doesn’t matter what gear even in park. Once you hit about 2,000 rpms it starts and only gets loud the higher the rpms.
 

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... It’s was a tad below the first indent in the dipstick. I added enough up to the second indent. Is that the correct level or should it go all the way up to the cross marks that are above both of them? ...
There are two sets of marks as you have noted.
Set 1 is a pair of notches. As I understand this is cold. Haven't seen a use for these yet.
Set 2 is the cross hatch section further away from the bottom of the stick. These are the HOT marks and this is where you want to check your fluid level to.

It sounds like you need to add more, as you have not reached the HOT marks yet.

The tricky part is deciphering if in fact the fluid is at that level or from splashing about. It should look evenly coated up to that cross hatch mark. It took me a while to get it to start to register when I last did a drain and fill. I kept adding 1/2 qt until I saw it register on the stick.

My method is to wipe the dip stick with a paper cloth towel. Insert completely, wait for a bout 1-2 seconds, and pull up smooth and quick.

If the transmission is good, the whine should go away with a good CVT drain and fill, with enough fluid.

Good luck.
 
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