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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. We've been experiencing this issue with our 2011 Nissan Juke SL (Turbo) for a few months. It struggles restarting unless it's had like 30 minutes to cool down after it's been running. So it runs perfectly fine without any issues or sounds, but if we go get gas, we end up stranded because it won't start unless we give it 30+ minutes to rest. Has anyone heard of this before, or know of anyone who was able to fix this? This happens regardless of how hot or cold it is outside, and it never struggles to startup first thing in the morning. It happens ever single time we shut off the car and try to restart it within a few minutes. The problem started within the past year.

We have replaced all of the following and we still have the problem. Do you have any suggestions?

Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced Fuel Pump Assembly
Replaced 2 Variable timing solenoids
Replaced Crank position sensor
Replaced Engine intake manifold gasket
Replaced Fuel rail pressure sensor regulator
Replaced High pressure fuel pump
Replaced AIP Camshaft position sensor (CPS)
Replaced 4 ignition coils
Replaced the battery
 

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Sounds like an electrical issue, not a hardware problem. You need to have a consult computer hooked up to it to monitor the immobilizer system, it sounds like your losing can-bus communication between the BCM and ECM from either a wire shorting out when it gets hot (melted sheathing will cause this), or the ECU has an internal issue causing a short when the ECU is warm. 30 minutes is not long enough for the engine to cool completely, but it is more than enough time for wiring or the inside for a control module to cool down.

Does it crank over and just not start? if that is the case then that 100% is related to communication between the immobilizer system and the ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After the short errand like going to a store or getting gas, and then getting back into the car to try and start, it chugs and can't turn over to complete the start. Our next door neighbor is a mechanic and has been helping us with his code reader and helped replace a lot of the parts. He gets tons of referrals and says he hasn't been this challenged by a car in some time, so your thought of electrical may be on to something. I saw a post related to ECU being a problem. Should we just take it to Nissan at this point for them to connect the computer and reset it?
 

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Brake sensor/switch at the pedal? Test to see if brake lights react when pressed, when having the issue.
 

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After the short errand like going to a store or getting gas, and then getting back into the car to try and start, it chugs and can't turn over to complete the start. Our next door neighbor is a mechanic and has been helping us with his code reader and helped replace a lot of the parts. He gets tons of referrals and says he hasn't been this challenged by a car in some time, so your thought of electrical may be on to something. I saw a post related to ECU being a problem. Should we just take it to Nissan at this point for them to connect the computer and reset it?
Tossing parts at it wont fix it, especially if its electronics related. It needs to be diagnosed using a system that can check for electrical faults. There is no "resetting it", if it has an electrical issue it needs to be identified and repaired. Take it to Nissan. To make things better for yourself and the tech they assign to it, type out EXACTLY what happens with every detail you can, then print it. Also, get a video of it happening to give to them (they will have you email it to them). Then there is no chance of things being lost in translation between you, the service writer, and the technician diagnosing it.

Brake sensor/switch at the pedal?
If this where bad the car would not even crank, the brake switch is directly in line with the starter signal wire.
 

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I read "struggles to start" as not even turning over, didn't catch that nuance.

Joe (14SLNI) had this problem for a while, I believe the issue was related to his aftermarket low pressure fuel pump. He drilled a couple holes near the intake side, as was recommended to him, and it helped but didn't resolve completely. I think end result was going back to stock part. Took him many months to live with, diagnose, and ultimately fix, so best bet is probably the dealership if you want quick resolution.
 

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hey, I don't know how late I am but - I saw someone on tik tok (of all places) with the same issue and it ended up being the coolant temperature sensor. when it goes bad it sends a wrong signal to the ECU and it thinks it is overheated so it cuts spark or whatever to "protect itself".
 

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hey, I don't know how late I am but - I saw someone on tik tok (of all places) with the same issue and it ended up being the coolant temperature sensor. when it goes bad it sends a wrong signal to the ECU and it thinks it is overheated so it cuts spark or whatever to "protect itself".
Great Post !!!
 
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