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Have you actually had a qualified mechanic look at the Juke? From your description and pictures you have a 2011 Juke AWD/CVT with push-start & intelligent key. Fail safe rpms are limited to 2500 rpms, see pg 98 of Service manual below. I've had a MAF get wet and it feels like fuel cut @ 2500 rpms. CVT Fail safe just describes slow acceleration, but not necessarily an rpm limit. Could be as simple as a bad ignition coil pack or fouled spark plug.

To clarify: you have the 2nd starter replacing the 1st in the same position on the bell housing. That doorbell switch is not stock. I'd put that stuff back to stock and start troubleshooting and get the OE starter system checked. No qualified mechanic is going to diagnose a setup like that without reverting back to stock. Without putting it on a diagnostic scanner tool it would be tough to tell. There could be a short somewhere in the IPDM, missing/damage ground straps, leakage current, low voltage on the battery, or anything affecting sensor performance. I can see he's tapped into the fuse block with a fuse adapter......interesting. Maybe it's as simple as the original starter having failed and so did the replacement. But I don't believe that's causing your current issues.

Could even be a faulty or mis-adjusted CVT transmission range switch, see pg 135, 221, 222 of Service Manual. This would cause some odd behavior in shifting performance which could cause a TCM failsafe mode. Might check the transmission "shifter selector" mounted on top of the transmission and see if the bolts are missing or it could be worn out too. The procedure walks you thru how to confirm the CVT is shifting right. Honestly I believe it's what I'm about to explain below.

There is current monitoring on the entire charge system for the alternator activation/deactivation, starter, ignition system, etc. IPDM is responsible for voltage regulation in the charging system thru PWM pulse width modulation. Everything that mechanic has done has essentially bypassed the IPDM including the (2) starter relays and any control logic. I'm wondering if that IPDM unit hasn't partially failed somehow. A DTC code would need to be pulled but has to be stock configuration. The battery current sensor provides feedback to the ECM and hopefully that is still attached to the battery. Root cause failure as suggested could simply have been the original OEM starter failed and the replacement was a faulty/defective non OEM starter which are known to be junk. This would have been very easy to test on a bench.

I've included the actual wiring diagrams and troubleshooting workflow so you can see what needs to be checked but it's really academic. If you carefully review the electrical schematic on the 3rd picture you can see something interesting. The IPDM CPU is actually tapping the power feed or load side that passes to the starter relay & starter control relays. Think of it like a voltmeter. It then PWM pulse width modulates the current flow to the starter relay control circuit based on the voltage measurements the ECM get's from it. Then the ECM sends back an appropriate voltage target value to the IPDM CPU & the process repeats. The ECM knows the IPDM is bypassed because it's job is voltage regulation for the charging system and that isn't happening correctly. The 2nd starter (i.e. replacement) is definitely pulling power from somewhere but's it's the wrong place and that's the point. The mechanic by bypassing both starter relays has completely affected the ECM's ability to control system voltage, while the ignition relay seems to be unaffected. It would not surprise me at all if the ECM put the entire vehicle in fail-safe mode. The ECM has the correct idea that something isn't right.

That mechanic clearly had no clue what he did by bypassing the IPDM......none. I'd highly suggest only a trained Nissan technician at the dealership handle this problem.

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