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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm looking for some input. I have a 2011 juke about 200k plus miles. The car has no start no crank issue, I looked before posting and see no post about the same thing. I'm expecting some issues by now since I have 200k+ miles.

2011 Juke CVT with intelligent key.
Here are some things that I found
-Check engine light up with Code P1651
-Not battery issue (I put in a new one)
-Key Fob- Car can unlock lock with key fob, car seem to see the key
- Not brake switch under the brakes, the brake lights comes on no issue, I also tested the switch (good)

When I hit the start button it doesn't crank the starter.

Here's some Info i found on Code P1651

Anyone seen this code and know how to address this? I've been trying to address this for a few days. I might just end up towing it to the dealer.

UPDATE 1
Took car to the dealer, and was told it's a bad IPDM E/R. Will cost me $1165 including labor. Hopefully that fixes it.

UPDATE 2
Got a call from the dealer was told that the new IPDM E/R took care of 4 codes, there's still 1 more code. The ECM seems bad now. Code U1000. I now have to order a USED ECM to replace it. An additional $450. Yikes! It got ugly real quick.
 

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You checked both brake switches underneath? There's a stop lamp switch and another switch for brake input feedback to the system.

That DTC indicates an issue with the starter motor relay in the Juke as well. Is there another DTC that co-exists? The Nissan Sentra diagnostics you linked to are pretty similar to the Juke. If you search the forums here you can find the Juke factory service manual. The EC section will have the diagnostic procedure for P1651.

Looks like there could be an issue with either the IPDM E/R or BCM, or a wiring harness between all of it. You can examine the harness of the IPDM by removing it and flipping it over. This is the box that's near the front driver side wheel underneath the air intake and next to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You checked both brake switches underneath? There's a stop lamp switch and another switch for brake input feedback to the system.

That DTC indicates an issue with the starter motor relay in the Juke as well. Is there another DTC that co-exists? The Nissan Sentra diagnostics you linked to are pretty similar to the Juke. If you search the forums here you can find the Juke factory service manual. The EC section will have the diagnostic procedure for P1651.

Looks like there could be an issue with either the IPDM E/R or BCM, or a wiring harness between all of it. You can examine the harness of the IPDM by removing it and flipping it over. This is the box that's near the front driver side wheel underneath the air intake and next to the battery.
No other DTC detected. Brake switches are good.

Here's how it looks like when i try to start it. Could it be a bad key fob? I only have 1 fob so i can't test a second one. Notice how the orange key light it lit up? I don't remember if that's normal. I'll also go check out the connection from the EMC to IPDM E/R.

 

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A blinking Yellow key fob light indicates the fob battery is weak such that the vehicle is having a hard time detecting it. holding the fob against the push to start button will make a chime, then allow it to start the vehicle. A solid yellow light is a little more serious according to the owners manual and could indicate a bad fob or the intelligent key system has failed.

From the user manual (section 2-14 in my 2013 Juke):
Intelligent Key system warning light
(if so equipped)
After the ignition switch is placed in the ON position, this light comes on for about 2 seconds and then turns off.

This light illuminates or blinks as follows:
. The light blinks in yellow when the door is closed with the Intelligent Key left outside the vehicle and the ignition switch in the ACC or ON position. Make sure that the Intelligent Key is inside the vehicle.
. The light blinks in green when the Intelligent Key battery is running out of power. Replace the battery with a new one. (See “Key battery replacement” (P.8-22).)
. The light illuminates in yellow when it warns of a malfunction with Intelligent Key system. If the warning light illuminates in yellow while the engine is stopped, it may be impossible to start the engine. If the light comes on while the engine is running, you can drive the vehicle. However in these cases, contact a NISSAN dealer for repair
as soon as possible.
 

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Remember that BCM / IDPM codes dont all show up. Some only with Nissan Consult software.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tow the car to a Nissan dealer, I'll see what they find. I'm expecting a huge bill.
 

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Any luck fixing it ?
 

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I had a problem like that over a year ago. The car acted like the Battery was dead. After a failed attempted to jump it. The only thing I could do is have it towed. The repair shop said it was fixed after a few hours. They seemed to narrow it down to the Insurance Plug-in of all things. The device kept throwing a code making it appear that cause was in the key fob. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Any luck fixing it ?
No, Dealer called me today and told me that When they replaced the IPDM E/R. It fried the ECM. Now, I have to folk out another $450 for for a used ECM. I don't even know if that's the end of it. I hope that's the last of it.

It seems common in Nissan cars to get bad IPDM E/R and ECM. Why can't they just use replaceable relays, a new IPDM E/R is $700 plus.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had a problem like that over a year ago. The car acted like the Battery was dead. After a failed attempted to jump it. The only thing I could do is have it towed. The repair shop said it was fixed after a few hours. They seemed to narrow it down to the Insurance Plug-in of all things. The device kept throwing a code making it appear that cause was in the key fob. Lol
What did they fix on yours?
 

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The thing that plugged into the OBD2 port for insurance reasons he said was the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Car is fixed after the dealer swapped out the IPDM E/R and ECM. That was a costly repair, slightly above $1800 with a used ECM.
 

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Wow. That sucks.

On a positive note. How is she running ? As long as she stays running. $1800 is cheap compared to a new or another car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow. That sucks.

On a positive note. How is she running ? As long as she stays running. $1800 is cheap compared to a new or another car.
so far it's running normal. I do notice gas mileage seems to be worst but it could have been just in my head.
 

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It might get worse mileage til the ECU etc relearns things.

You might be driving it a lil harder. The weather has changed and the Winter gas may be causing worse mileage too.
 
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