2j hits 350whp - Page 9
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Thread: 2j hits 350whp

  1. #81
    Moderator Macgyver's Avatar
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    It is a niche car for sure in North America. World wide is a different story. Over 1 million have been sold and their markets are doing things with the Juke. JDM and Asian parts are there but the shipping cost can be a killer.

    It is still a fun car. My son is going to get a Veloster N soon. He can't stand the Type R styling.

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    2014 Silver 6spd RS 285whp 255wtq 21PSI
    Tint SunStrip. Cargo Cvr. DRL Mod. HID Hdlites, Ultratech Race Brace Pkg, Koenig whls&20mm spcrs
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    Injen IC pipes,CAI, Midpipe,Stillen Exhst, TS BOV & Wastegate, IRZ Stut Brce, Maxbore TBody

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  3. #82
    Senior Member slcjuke's Avatar
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    Well, aside from the CVT design's blatant flaws as Gene has pointed out, you have the CVT programming which I think is the most glaring issue.

    Anyone who drives their CVT as hard as I do will notice many things with the programming.

    1. Sport mode is buggy at best. The computer has a hard time deciding when to shift sometimes. My car has always done this ever since I bought it brand new off the lot as well so it's not a tune/mod/mechanical issue.

    2. Manual mode is a complete disaster.

    3. Traction control + CVT programming is a crime against humanity. There is no way to completely disable the traction control system in this car. Holding down the traction control button does NOT fully disable the traction control system as many on the forum here have posted. I've tested this thoroughly. The best way to disable most of the computer intervention is just by pressing the traction control button once. Anyway, if traction control kicks on in such a way (which I haven't determined yet) driving REALLY hard the transmission will go into their weird "over-rev limp type mode" where the car will rev really high and not do anything until shut off. Once again, this happened with the stock transmission and completely stock car off the lot. It's an issue with the programming itself. My point is, even IF we were to get a real "bulletproof CVT" you would still have to contend with this disastrous programming which right now is impossible and since this platform is dead no one in their right mind is going to waste the time/money/effort to develop a crack of the TCM.

    My thoughts on the CVT version of this car right now are this:

    Keep it to basic bolt ons. I.E.: intake, exhaust, MAYBE intercooler? and a tune. Literally that's it. The juke at its stock form already makes too much power for the CVT transmission. (my CVT already started having issues at about 10,000 miles into ownership. Untuned and unmodded). It's a shame too because the AWD system is pretty robust and impressive. You can feel the torque vectoring working its *** off if you drive the car really hard and it's very enjoyable but there are too many negatives. Sorry to anyone who wanted a different answer right now but that's just how it is. Skip the turbos swaps, skip the front mount intercoolers, skip the fancy blowoff valves. It's all useless on this platform unless someone figures out the CVT programming.

    And one more unpopular opinion:

    Lightweight pulley is mostly snake oil

    That is all
    Last edited by slcjuke; 05-13-2019 at 02:22 PM.
    ​2014 Nismo RS AWD - 264WHP/258WTQ @ 23 PSI
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  4. #83
    Member FlannelFairlady's Avatar
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    The flaws with the CVT are the reason I am working on a manual conversion while retaining the AWD system. It's a real shame that Nissan didn't actually release an AWD manual version of the juke because they actually had the parts at their disposal utilizing the transmission from the X-Trail. What I am doing isn't cost effective by any means but I refuse to accept that a car that is so fun to toss on the corners has to be limited by such a huge flaw as the CVT itself. After I am done and have ironed out all the kinks I will likely put together a guide and parts list so if anyone else wants to attempt the the massive undertaking of a manual swap AWD swap they can.
    14 Nissan Juke Nismo RS AWD
    90 Toyota Celica All-Trac
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  6. #84
    Senior Member Bargeld's Avatar
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    I disagree on a few things here...

    The pulley made a noticeable difference to me as far as throttle response & speed of low rpm rev-up. I do not believe it is snake oil.

    I had CVT 'hunting' issues where it didn't know where it wanted to go as far as gear and RPM. Visconti's Ecutek tune with the CVT update fixed it for me. My cvt is still lacking, I feel like it could/should be putting more power to the wheels, but at least the hunting and gear choices are reliable and not buggy at all. At all. Ever.

    I had the over-rev/stuck in lower gear issue from about 30k-ish - 40k-ish miles. I got the fluid change at the dealership. I'm at 55k miles now and it has never happened since the fluid change.

    I only have 3 real complaints about the CVT at this point:
    As mentioned, it should put more power to the wheels. It still leans towards longevity/safety.
    There is still a throttle hump to get over at about 3k rpms while at medium throttle input on acceleration.
    Gas mileage is just stupid and unpredictable. On the same vehicle or vs other Jukes.

    Also, it is possible to completely disable traction control. There's the press and hold the traction control button for 10 secs method (which may not completely disable it, but I seem to remember that it works for awd dyno-ing. I also believe it's tied to the ABS system, which is in turn tied to the TPMS system. Disable the TPMS by not installing them and that should completely disable the traction control. I may be wrong about the root of that being the ABS system, but I seem to remember that at the moment.
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  7. #85
    Senior Member Storm Trooper's Avatar
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    To get traction control to go completely off, you need to unplug the yaw sensor (under the passengers seat if I remember right). No other way around it. I am sure some of you have experienced throttle cut at high G loads, somewhere around 1G I believe. If you get your car too sideways, it will cut the throttle and apply the brakes too. None of that helps when you are trying to post good lap times... But unplugging the yaw sensor takes care of all that.

    I have a ton of complaints about the CVT. So many complaints that I sold that Juke to get a manual trans Juke even though I told myself I would never own a FWD vehicle.
    Last edited by Storm Trooper; 05-13-2019 at 07:41 PM.
    2012 Juke SV AWD - Sold 2015
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  8. #86
    Senior Member 14RSINLI's Avatar
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    A couple of you guys mentioned it. The only way to go is the 6 sp fwd. it is tons of fun and the manual helps to drive in the snow. Juke CVT is not made for high performance or for aggressive modding. But the beauty of the 6sp RS is it can handle a $HITLOAD of power out the box as evidenced by the name of this thread 🙂
    2014 RS MT 270 whp, 325wtq @ 26psi
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  9. #87
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    Plus all u need is snow tires on the fwd rs and you'll be good to go in the snow

  10. #88
    Moderator Macgyver's Avatar
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    Yaw sensor. A friend unplugged his and it made his 2013 Nismo underivable per say. It was the early days searching for the best way to dyno tune the AWD. There were conflicting reports on what to unplug to dyno properly especially on a non linked or 1 roller dyno.

    The connector is under the passenger seat.

    So it looks like the YAW unplug works with the 6 speed but not with the AWD.

    https://www.jukeforums.com/forum/nis...aw-sensor.html
    2014 Silver 6spd RS 285whp 255wtq 21PSI
    Tint SunStrip. Cargo Cvr. DRL Mod. HID Hdlites, Ultratech Race Brace Pkg, Koenig whls&20mm spcrs
    LED:Gator, Backup, Dome, License, SideMrk, Cstm Hatch. Pinstriping. Weathertek's,
    Lited Scufs, Accent Liting, Turbonoob mounts. Uprev Tune. Boost gage, 2J DP & Pulley, Mamba Turbo, RHW FMIC
    Injen IC pipes,CAI, Midpipe,Stillen Exhst, TS BOV & Wastegate, IRZ Stut Brce, Maxbore TBody

  11. #89
    Senior Member Storm Trooper's Avatar
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    Ahh that would make sense. I never unplugged the yaw sensor on my awd Juke. It definitely worked on my 6 speed RS.
    2012 Juke SV AWD - Sold 2015
    2015 Juke Nismo RS 6mt - Sold 2018
    2006 Evo MR SE - 400whp on E85
    2004 Saturn Vue - Beater

  12. #90
    Senior Member pboglio's Avatar
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    - Defeating the traction control is pointless in the dry, the ECM will fight you thru reduced performance over time.
    - Traction control is actually nice to have in the dry, puts the power down effectively. In the snow it's terrible.
    - No problems in manual mode on the ECUTek tune, works perfectly for me.
    - A CVT is ideal for some of us who may not be able to work a clutch anymore, but a 6spd swap would be killer.
    - CVT durability seems to be slightly worse on the RS based on the few I've heard of failing early, but this could also be driver related.
    - I didn't have CVT problems until 70k miles.
    - Driving style and tune can make a huge difference to reliability.
    - Crank pulley didn't work for me, wanted it to badly......but it sucked.
    - I have no problems with power from a roll on the street. The CVT dyno lower, but in-gear acceleration times are excellent.
    - Kind of agree on the CVT bolt-on limitations, but done right I think an FMIC and small turbo upgrade can allow a reliable AWD car if done properly.
    - Dealer TCM reflash is a nice upgrade if you are running an older Juke, impressed with bottom end torque and response improvement.
    - I'll have to try the Yaw sensor deactivation for high-g cornering. Probably the one area I hate the most on the Juke.
    Car: 2012 Nissan Juke SV AWD/CVT
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    Power: 185 w.h.p./210 lb-ft (DynoJet P&L Performance)
    Quote: "The enemy outnumber us a paltry 3 to 1, good odds for any Greek!" (David Wenham as "Dilios, Narrator & Spartan soldier, Frank Miller's "300", Battle of Plataea)

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