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Rotors, pads, and tires. Hopefully this weekend.

3K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Nismo Offroad 
#1 ·
I believe I have all the tools and parts on hand. Now I just have to squeeze the project in around the massive housecleaning and yard prep going on as we expect about 20-30 out of town relatives and friends next weekend as my eldest graduates High School.
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Rim Auto part
 
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#2 ·
Tire Rim Automotive tire Alloy wheel Wheel

I enjoy this sort of work so that was a pleasant hour and a half. Bedtime now though. :sleeping:
 
#3 ·
WTF those are sick rims and rubber dude!
 
#4 ·
Ditto lol
Can't wait to see them on the car.
 
#8 ·
Stupid huge and awesome looking 295/50R15s just like Nismo Offroad is using (minus the lift)
 
#7 ·
Let me know if you run into the same issue in the rear with bottoming out on the fenders as I did! If you don't want the lifted look, I think I remember you mentioning, you could always just use stiffer springs in the rear. BC Racing-NA sells them separate for about $100 a set. But don't bother emailing or calling them for support about the Juke as none had answers apart from their standard V-barrel lowering springs. Remember 2J Racing solved it but ultimately I did all the math.
 
#9 ·
I've got a handful of process pics, but its not really enough for a good writeup, and it was outside at 2AM... so... dark.

on one hand.. rear tires are on. and they make me smile. love it! :excitement:

On the other hand (and this is totally my own fault for not paying attention and working by streetlight and flashlight to do a 1st time rotors and brake job) does it make a difference which one of the bolts goes in the top or bottom piston slide? I didn't notice until i was greasing the pins to put the second set back on that they are not identical bolts. Certainly appear to be the same length but one has a black plastic or rubber bushing that the other does not.
Auto part Screw Automotive engine part Tool Metal

this is the pair of 14mm bolts, and now that i have the manual pulled up, looks like the one with the bushing should be the bottom sliding pin.

Also, (I'll research this when i wake up) was i supposed to use the shim pads and shim covers from OEM pads? I just stuck the new pads in the slots :confused:
 
#10 ·
from a quick search i ran so far, the really thin shim and back plate is used to help reduce squealing?
 
#11 · (Edited)
My intention was to change front tires too, but family needed to be in multiple places at once, so one unanticipated test drive later... everything sounds fine. I followed manufacturer break in of hard stops followed by slow ones. (None to a complete standstill). There was a bit of rubbing noise on the 1st slow stop but it went away on the next one. I'll probably take brakes apart tonight again anyway just to verify correct upper and lower pin placement before i start on the fronts.
 
#12 ·
All finished with wheels and tires I hope. Ill try to post up pics once the sun comes up and i have some decent light. noticed the front pads came with the little hooks to attach to the spring that keeps pads off the rotor when the brakes are not applied and i did not see anything like that on my rear pads. Do i need to get some additional hardware for back there?
 
#13 ·
Can't wait.... Eager for you input!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Normally the caliper pin with the black portion goes in the upper hole to prevent caliper knock when applying brakes for calipers on the rear side, and bottom hole for caliper on front side. Will have to confirm with service manual. Also if i am not mistsken it can really only fit into one hole as it's diameter is slightly larger than all metal slide pin.
You must use the shims on the pads with pad grease to prevent squeal.
Rear pads do not have a spreader clip like front does.
 
#16 ·
Thanks so much egg. Great to see you posting again :)

Just returned from firestone (who mounted my tires and said come back for free TPMS synch) and they were unable to get the sensors to communicate with their equipment. I doubt service is open at dealership on memorial day and I have to work tonight so I'll just drive with warning light a couple days till I can get them checked out.
 
#17 ·
As far as I know most dealerships are open on Memorial Day. Every single dealer my area including the one I work at is open.
Dealerships rarely close on Holidays.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Perfect....


YOURS!





MINE!
 

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#20 ·
Couple of issues i noticed when taking her out for a spin on the way to work.

The tire is a smaller diameter than the ones I was running but much wider and stick out past the fenders. So now the rears will rub at the top on the fender itself rather than inside top of the wheelwell like before. May have to seriously consider that lift

also loud rubbing from driver front when backing and turning. Just a little noise from the same area when going forward and turning. Reverse must be catching the bottom of the liner at the front of the wheelwell. Not a whole lot of room for "stretching" that liner with a heatgun. Its pretty much up against something all the way around.

mudflaps... splash guards.. something to adress slinging stuff all over the car now. new higher wider fenders would be awesome! anyone have some JUKE-R fenders laying around? ;)
 
#21 ·
Oh totally want some fenders but haven't had much response when asking around. Just found the Z fenders that may work but not completely what I was going for. Also you don't need to lift the car just replace rear springs with a stiffer linear set. I'll look it up and give you some possibilities that may work.
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
Buy one for each side of the rear, then you can replace the rear springs with swift springs. If you're on OEM struts, dampening is going to be way off. Really you should just get BC coils then upgrade the springs. Otherwise you'll get a very bouncy ride without the valving to match the higher spring rate.

https://store.bcracing-na.com/rear-height-adjuster-high-low-kit-nissan-juke-p5336.aspx
A+ to that. I have my dampening all the way to soft and it's an amazing ride!!
 
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