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Worth it to tune the AWD RS?

16K views 50 replies 12 participants last post by  Boogeyman 
#1 ·
I've been looking around online, I've emailed vendors (still haven't heard back from ANY of them), and I've monitored some of the readings from my own vehicle. I understand that the CVT doesn't do well with higher torque. I understand that I'm not working with a large engine, and won't be putting 400hp to the wheels. I see that ecutune and uprev are the popular tunes, and that to use the more aggressive tunes I'll need to upgrade the intercooler and likely delete the cat with a new downpipe. I've even seen threads here about tuning the RS, and that there are a few claims that may or may not ever happen.

After doing all the bolt-ons, I'll be looking into the option of the downpipe/tune. I have a shop, with a mustang dyno that can properly do tuning on my RS. If i'm only going to get an additional 10hp and 40-50 extra torque, I will not be willing to spend the money needed for that. I'm looking to get 250awdhp and 250 torque. I don't feel like this is asking too much, but is this achievable without doing a bunch of project insane juke custom work?
 
#2 ·
I have a FBO RS AWD with Intercooler and DP. All of the bolt-ons helped a little but the tune really opened it up. I think 250awhp and 250awtq is completely achievable.


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#3 · (Edited)
A tune totally changes the Juke for the better. Doesnt matter what model.

I tuned my Juke last Fall. It got cold and the Summer tires just couldnt hold the horsepower and I was hesitant of going too fast and sliding off the roads. It is a 6speed FWD RS with most bolt ons.

Since it is warming up here on the East coast. I took the car out on a 75 degree day. Holy Crap this car is blistering fast. It IS a sports car now. So much fun.

The ONLY thing I miss about my 2012 awd and 2014 Nismo RS awd is the vectoring. That stuff is awesome.
 
#4 ·
It has been raining here the past couple of days. I agree about the vectoring, that stuff is awesome! I see my boost hold in the 11-13 range, with spikes up to 24. I'd like to see it hold in the 16-18 range. May I ask which tune either of you went with, and any reasons why you chose the one you did?
 
#5 ·
Uprev since they have far more Dyno tuning shops around the country. This will get you the most out of your tuning money spent.

The one benefit that Ecutek has is better CVT tuning options. Not many but they are there. Only with a tuner. Not the online Etunes.

To get your Boost to hold. You need to replace the Recirc valve or Blow off valve. Turbo Smart Kompact is the best option here.

The Stock IC will be fine for the time being.

To get what you want. You need the following:

SRI or CAI.
Injen IC pipes https://www.stillen.com/injen-2011-...ercooler-piping-kits-polished-ses1900icp.html
BOV Product | Kompact Plumb Back Nissan Juke | Turbosmart USA
3" Injen or OBX 2nd CAT delete pipe OBX Turbo Down Pipe For 2011-2016 Nissan Juke 1.6L AWD Only!!! | eBay
3" the rest of the way back to your stock muffler. Custom shop or spend the $$$ on a CAT back exhaust. 2.5" minimum.

Once you bolt these on you should tune and get the power you are asking for. The AWD CVT combo is on the tricky side to tune. They can do it but hopefully they have done Jukes before. You will get most of the power you want just not on the torque side as the ECU and TCU will limit that.

Where are you at ?
 
#6 ·
I'm in the Houston area. I already have the SRI and Turbosmart Kompact on. As I'm getting into the more expensive mods, I have been trying to decide if I want to go with the stock style IC or a FMIC. The front mount will require me to relocate my transmission cooler. The DP you linked is significantly cheaper than the 2JR one, and looks a lot different. Definitely going to go 3" all the way back, even though I like the sound of the stock exhaust. The CVT will be my limiting factor. Looking around locally, the Juke is not as desirable a car to advertise tuning as a WRX is. I kinda doubt that they will have much experience tuning a CVT.
 
#7 ·
My recommendation is to eTune with Trackstar in Bedford, TX, being that you are so close. Ethan has tuned three AWD CVT Jukes so far and three or more FWD 6MT's. He can tune on most platforms but UPREV has been everyone's go-to. I started with ECUTEK and even met a few tuners. In the end it didn't work out, I went to Ethan and all has been great ever since.

Just my two cents....


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#9 ·
Thanks for the recommendation OKJUKE! They're not listed anywhere I've looked.

For the exhaust, am I correct in assuming that I'll need to get a downpipe AND midpipe AND cat back, to delete both cats? Is just doing the second cat delete going to be enough to have a map for 20psi?
 
#10 ·
You're welcome. He isn't an authorized UPREV tuner that I know of. But he can tune all things from Hondas to blown LS engines.

Yes you are correct that you will need a downpipe, second cat delete and cat-back. To my knowledge all turbo downpipe are 2 1/2" and the INJEN second cat delete and cat-back are both 3". I will say that with the downpipe and CVT it was to loud for me.

As for 20psi it has been done without the downpipe and only second cat delete but I wouldn't recommend it.


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#11 ·
I wish I had other tuners near me. My tuner hasn't tuned any AWD Jukes before and has had a moderate success in dealing with some of the challenges the CVT causes with tuning. He can't get mine to a point where I can drive WOT at times w/o it going to a "overboost protection" mode.

*sigh*
 
#12 · (Edited)
The CVT is my biggest concern. I'm worried that I won't be able to make things work right either. What kind of numbers are you getting with 19psi dwnshft? I notice that your signature indicates you're running the stock IC and hoses.

I guess I'll need to look into something custom for the exhaust, if it's going to be too loud. I do a lot of night time driving, and want to avoid having my neighbors hate me.

On that note, is going 3" going to give any benefit since the DP will be 2.5"? Would it keep too much back pressure if I just did a muffler and 3" from there?
 
#13 ·
Like I said. I would not do the IC or DP in your situation. Not yet anyway. Bolt on my suggestions and then Tune. See how it goes for you.

As far as your question. The shortish length of the 2.5" DP going to 3" will flow very well. It is not going to hurt a thing at our power ranges.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I dont understand people here. Not including you Dat and this thread in general.

The RS Boost is at 16psi. It uses the SAME CAT as every other Juke. Why should 18 be a problem? What is it gonna magically melt with 2 more PSI?

YOU DONT RUN WITH YOUR CAR AT FULL BOOST ALL THE TIME.......24 hours a day 7 days a week. You arent going to melt your cat or burn your turbo out at 18 or 20 psi given that the RS Spikes well above 20 at stock configuration. If you are worried about spikes. Install a MBC as a Boost spike Preventer. Sorta like a BOV for the Boost solenoid.
So therefore. 20psi is not a problem even with the Stock Main CAT. Would I run 20 psi every day and hammer your right foot down like a 16 year old with a rent a car on an Auto race course? No.

My tunes are the following:
I have an OEM tune. I have a MPG 12psi tune. I have a 16psi Tune. I have a 20psi tune. And A CRAZY MAX boost thats very aggressive all over at 22psi that is for the once in a while WRX/Mustang scare em.

As long as you arent Racing and beating on your DD every day for Hours on end on your max tune. Dont worry about it. You get 5 maps. You change them on the fly via your cruise control buttons. How Crapping hard is it to go from your Mildly tuned tune to your what ever power you need tune? I dont know but it must be hard.......OH NO I HAVE TO MOVE MY FINGERS.......

Anyway. Please take my advice. This is my 3rd Tuned Juke. I think I know what works and what doesnt by now.

CAI/SRI, BOV, IC pipes, 2nd CAT delete. I know you have some of these already. Remove the resonator and open up the exhaust behind the 2nd CAT delete to your stock muffler using 3" if you can. Dont take that OEM Muffler off just yet. Unless you want a lot more sound. Any exhaust shop can do this using a crush reduce(Below) or weld a reducer on to go from the 3" to the oem piping in front of the muffler.

Tune away. You will be better off with an experienced Juke tuner. Even 1 is better than none. Its a whole different beast with the CVT. That is unless the Dyno is a linked AWD Mustang?

Here is the 3" going to the OEM piping. I coulda gone closer to the OEM muffler but the Mennonite guy doing the work didnt quite understand me. LOL

 

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#16 · (Edited)
18psi max would be for my typical driving. I happen to be in my 30's, but driving the Juke has brought out my inner 16 year old. I have more control, and after the CVT hooks, I tend to ease off the gas. As embarrassing as it may seem, I did not enjoy having a corolla keep pace with me until we hit 50mph. I wouldn't be riding it hard for hours on end, but a 45min trip is not uncommon, and half of it would allow me to play with lower end sports cars/trucks. There's some monsters on the road here, and I know not to mess with the 800-1000hp+ ones. They like to have fun, but some of the newer guys are not very safe.

The shop I was originally looking at uses a MD-AWD-500-SE. I believe this is a linked mustang dyno

PS: how is the underside of your ride so clean?!?!?!?
 
#17 ·
PS: how is the underside of your ride so clean?!?!?!?
Mine is that clean as well. I was shocked to see how clean it was when I had the rear sway bar installed. LOL
 
#18 ·
I had 2014 nismo AWD with only TS recirc, injen sri and ic pipes tune with uprev at 18lbs max loved it. 200whp and 210 torque. I am used to fast cars and raced in both younger years not in the late 30s but going WOT after the tuned scared me. IT made the juke super fun.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Question. I too am interested in tuning my AWD and wondered what is everyone's AWHP or most achieved on stock turbo? Not seen very many listed is all.

or 2whp from your AWD doesn't matter which.
 
#20 ·
I have another question, does anyone know if you purchase the tune (license) at one shop, can you take it to a different tuner afterwards to have them tune it and just pay them for the time? Or do they require a new license from Uprev?

Reason I ask, is that I don't have the greatest confidence in my tuners ability to finish fine tuning the AWD Juke.... :-(
 
#24 ·
Anyone have 2j do a Uprev tune for them yet? I love their products and trust them as a company with everything else I've been using. I'm trying to find a remote tune for the CVT since I don't have faith in Michigan tuners unless I have a built LS ;P
 
#25 ·
I love 2J's products but the feedback on their eTunes hasn't been great. I know of two eTunes for sure and maybe a third, if my memory serves. The biggest complaint was turnaround between files. They are a good company but stay very busy with the manufacturing side of the house. Maybe in time they will free up more time to handle this side of things.

All three people went to the same tuner after the failed 2J tunes, in order to finish. I personally had an ECUTEK master dealer take two weeks and never sent the base file. I went to the same tuner as they did in the end and had six revisions in under two weeks.


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#27 ·
The ECUTEK tuner or the UPREV tuner that finished my tune?


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#30 ·
BTW: This OBX Turbo Down Pipe For 2011-2016 Nissan Juke 1.6L AWD Only!!! is not a true turbo down pipe. A turbo down pipe comes directly off the turbo outlet and in the case of the Juke contains the 1st of two catalytic converters in the exhaust system. The OBX piece is simply a 2nd catalytic converter delete pipe that connects the back half of the exhaust system to the actual down pipe. The reason the 2J Racing down pipe costs more is due to it's design and manufacture as a true down pipe.

When a tune requires a new "catless down pipe" it's referring to one like the 2J down pipe not the OBX 2nd cat delete mid pipe. Obviously the biggest gains can be obtained by removing both cats and tuning accordingly.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I would think so.

In states that require an inspection I would think the DMV agents look for the cats and it likely makes their day when they can bust your chops for having removed them... In "progressive" states like Cali they may even arrest, prosecute and incarcerate you for merely thinking of modifying your vehicle...

That being said one could stealthily replace the catalyst material inside the cats with straight pipe. A typical exhaust shop likely isn't up to the task. This would require an actual skilled fabricator to rework the original cats, $$$.

This, Mini Cat Cel Fix, will take care of any cat related codes thrown when replacing original down pipe. The DP has two O2 sensors, one before the primary cat and one after. The ECU monitors he diff between the two to ensure the cat is there and functioning. Thus you only need install one of these on the 2nd O2 sensor.

<title>O2 Simulator Mini Cat Cel Fix best oxygen sensor simulator made.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Secondary, No unless you live in a real restrictive state like Ca. You will pass sniffer tests without the secondary. But states with tight visual emission inspections might be a problem. I live in Pa. As long as you dont have a code in the ECU and your car passes the sniffer. You are good.

Baby steps. Not to use a condescending term but take things in small steps. Do the 2nd Cat removal. Its easy to bolt back on. Buy other bolt ons if you think you need to. BOV, CAI, IC pipes. Then tune. Dont go big with the true DP and other mods until you are sure you need more power and your car can take it. I would tune after modding my exhaust. Thats if you have the $$$ to retune later after bolting on more stuff.
 
#35 ·
I am Bob irl actually. ;)
 
#36 ·
Mac, everyone knows your IRL name is actually Robert. Don't ask me how I know that.
 
#37 ·
this thread makes me happy. Thanks for the great info. Just upgraded from the stillen on my RS AWD to the injen catback. The Injen upper piping came in today, and should have BOV within a week or two. I commute about 200 miles a day (100 to work, 100 back) and have been waiting to get a tune to just increase the fun factor of the juke. Reading this thread seems to state, since i am limited on HP/TQ output on the CVT, i can move ahead with a tune without upgrading the DP or FMIC? I am replacing the second cat, and possible going mishimoto z line FMIC anyway, but wasn't looking forward to replacing the DP. MAX 250hp/250tq would make me happy if it is doable. Can anyone recommend a CVT tuner in the TriState? Mac, your in PA right? I could bite the bullet and go to Visconti in CT, but thats a bit far.
 
#38 ·
Yeah No FMIC needed. I am running stock and my numbers are great. You really only gain a few degrees cooler Intake air charge over stock but lose around .7 to 1% pressure drop(meaning you lose boost) with some turbo lag til the extra piping and larger FMIC get up to pressure. Look up on Uprevs site and Ecutek for tuners near by. You are free to tune at any time Stock. One mod or twenty. It usually costs $300 to $350 retune after you do your first tune and pay for the license.

You will have most of the HP. Just not all the torque. The AWD is still blistering fun and fast once she is tuned.
 
#39 ·
How much of difference did you find the TS wastegate to make? Was it easier for your tuner to tune the CVT? Its the CVT that seems to be a hang up with my Tuner being able to dial it in.
 
#41 ·
So, I've had to tune my RS back to stock until my tuner has a spare day between his other builds (he's a Z car specialist). The CVT has proven to be more difficult for him to tune with the higher boost.

I was only able to drive at half to three quarter throttle and couldn't go over 4800rpm otherwise i'd get some nasty boost cut. Occasionally, it would through the car into overboost protection mode (which I was able to clear easily)....but was far from a finished product.

Does ANYONE with an UpRev tune (who is happy with the finished tune) have either a contact number for their tuner to perhaps help my guy out or are able to provide some parameter advice? I'm sure he can DO IT, but this is only the second Juke he's tuned and the first CVT.

Thanks folks.
 
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