Big 3 Upgrade for Juke

[ARF]

This started bouncing around on another thread last night so I decided to start a thread for it.
Has anyone completed one of these for the Juke yet?
I have not done one and went to look at the connections before ordering today and found a little bit of a mess under the hood

Alternator- Pretty easy to see where the positive is attached and then the wire snakes in between and underneath to get to the other side of the car. It should be much easier to take more of a direct path when redoing this.
Engine block- It looks like the engine block is grounded on the left side as well, although that may not be the only ground.
Battery ground- Following the battery ground it goes pretty much straight down to the frame, but then it looks like another ground wire is situated at the same location or there is a continuation. Whatever it is, it looks sloppy.
Battery- I was looking at some of the different connector options for battery terminals and none of them look great when you look a the mess of fuse box connections that have to be made with the factory connector..... Is the best path to get a battery with top and side mount connectors to make this work?

Pictures from anyone who has completed this would be great. Suggestions would also be great.

[Macgyver]

No mods yet but Top Post is always easiest to work with imho.

[bzzeigler]

This started bouncing around on another thread last night so I decided to start a thread for it.
Has anyone completed one of these for the Juke yet?
I have not done one and went to look at the connections before ordering today and found a little bit of a mess under the hood

Alternator- Pretty easy to see where the positive is attached and then the wire snakes in between and underneath to get to the other side of the car. It should be much easier to take more of a direct path when redoing this.
Engine block- It looks like the engine block is grounded on the left side as well, although that may not be the only ground.
Battery ground- Following the battery ground it goes pretty much straight down to the frame, but then it looks like another ground wire is situated at the same location or there is a continuation. Whatever it is, it looks sloppy.
Battery- I was looking at some of the different connector options for battery terminals and none of them look great when you look a the mess of fuse box connections that have to be made with the factory connector..... Is the best path to get a battery with top and side mount connectors to make this work?

Pictures from anyone who has completed this would be great. Suggestions would also be great.

This is, as I noted before, a great upgrade. Thursday I'm going to be doing a lot of research and measuring and planning and taking pictures and such with my Juke to start thinking about a system...
Gotta see about room for 3 or 4 amps as well as the mirrored enclosures on either side. I'll try to make a list of what the best items to get for the BIG THREE would be, as well as ground points for everything. Also, IF you want to have more than one ground from the engine block to the chassis, there is no problem in doing so. I'm not sure if there are a lot of extra bolt holes in the block, but if the block is aluminum, there is a possibility for a potential difference between the ground point and the alternator... You can also do a ground cable directly from the alternator on top of the engine ground strap, if you want to get crazy!

Top mount posts are generally the easiest to work with as Macgyver noted.

[ARF]

This is, as I noted before, a great upgrade. Thursday I'm going to be doing a lot of research and measuring and planning and taking pictures and such with my Juke to start thinking about a system...
Gotta see about room for 3 or 4 amps as well as the mirrored enclosures on either side. I'll try to make a list of what the best items to get for the BIG THREE would be, as well as ground points for everything. Also, IF you want to have more than one ground from the engine block to the chassis, there is no problem in doing so. I'm not sure if there are a lot of extra bolt holes in the block, but if the block is aluminum, there is a possibility for a potential difference between the ground point and the alternator... You can also do a ground cable directly from the alternator on top of the engine ground strap, if you want to get crazy!

Top mount posts are generally the easiest to work with as Macgyver noted.

Thanks. I can see that top mounts are the easiest, but are they going to be enough with the tight space we are working with. I other upgrades I see people moving the fuse box connection "off" the top mount and running a cable to it a few inches away to a place it can sit. I don't see that happening with the juke.
I am going to wait until you or someone else with experience completes this first. It was a tight enough fit to get a good stinger fuse holder mounted for the amp with the strut tower and oil catch can. I also need to power the three harnesses I have for xenon head lights, xenon fogs and DRL's. I would like to move those to a separate area.
There are some stinger and other terminals that have the dual large gauge cable and 4 block terminals for 0/4 and 2 8's.
Bottom line is that this is convincing me that with all these accessories I need this and a better battery. A couple of the batteries have top and side mount- those are looking more attractive.

So tell me about how you are going to shop for an alternator...😁


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[bzzeigler]

Thanks. I can see that top mounts are the easiest, but are they going to be enough with the tight space we are working with. I other upgrades I see people moving the fuse box connection "off" the top mount and running a cable to it a few inches away to a place it can sit. I don't see that happening with the juke.
I am going to wait until you or someone else with experience completes this first. It was a tight enough fit to get a good stinger fuse holder mounted for the amp with the strut tower and oil catch can. I also need to power the three harnesses I have for xenon head lights, xenon fogs and DRL's. I would like to move those to a separate area.
There are some stinger and other terminals that have the dual large gauge cable and 4 block terminals for 0/4 and 2 8's.
Bottom line is that this is convincing me that with all these accessories I need this and a better battery. A couple of the batteries have top and side mount- those are looking more attractive.

So tell me about how you are going to shop for an alternator...


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app

I emailed my old custom alternator buddy to see what he can do for the Juke, mentioned I might end up sending a few customers his way if things look good!
And from doing some research, it looks like the Kinetik batteries are going to be the best choice from a pure performance standpoint...

I'll get a list put together Thursday... I'll try and break it down for a simple upgrade or a more advanced upgrade for those doing systems and other accessories that need power...

[ARF]

I emailed my old custom alternator buddy to see what he can do for the Juke, mentioned I might end up sending a few customers his way if things look good!
And from doing some research, it looks like the Kinetik batteries are going to be the best choice from a pure performance standpoint...

I'll get a list put together Thursday... I'll try and break it down for a simple upgrade or a more advanced upgrade for those doing systems and other accessories that need power...

Do you think an 1800 will fit, or just the 1400?
Like I said before, don't know anything about shuriken, but they seem neck and neck with kinetik. And they have accessories for top and side. Check out sonicelectronix side by side comparison.

Your help is appreciated.


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[bzzeigler]

Do you think an 1800 will fit, or just the 1400?
Like I said before, don't know anything about shuriken, but they seem neck and neck with kinetik. And they have accessories for top and side. Check out sonicelectronix side by side comparison.

Your help is appreciated.


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I'll have to check out benchmarks are specs and all that stuff. I'll measure the battery tomorrow morning and use that to put together a quick list of batteries that will fit without modification.

I'd love to do 16v, but don't think the Kinetik HC16v will fit in the OEM location... And I've never done a 16v system before. They trend to be more geared towards SPL builds, not SQ builds...

I should see if I can get a sponsorship or three. That would make things a little easier

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[bzzeigler]

Just measured the OEM battery... 10"wide, 7"deep, 8"tall.
You could fit the Kinetik HC2000:
http://www.kinetikpower.com/2009/pro...?C=1&P=KHC2000

An absolute beast of a battery. You wouldn't need to run a second battery unless you were doing a system running more the 2000Wrms...
It is heavy though at 62 lbs...

Sent from my SGH-T959V

[ARF]

Just measured the OEM battery... 10"wide, 7"deep, 8"tall.
You could fit the Kinetik HC2000:
Kinetik High Current Power Cells

An absolute beast of a battery. You wouldn't need to run a second battery unless you were doing a system running more the 2000Wrms...
It is heavy though at 62 lbs...

Sent from my SGH-T959V

That battery is 12" wide....
Width is the problem with most of the batteries I look at.

[bzzeigler]

That battery is 12" wide....
Width is the problem with most of the batteries I look at.

Sorry, misread that... The KHC1800 will fit. Not AS beastly, but at 1800Wrms, that's still a lot of power. You also shed 8 lbs, bringing it down to 54 lbs!

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