New stereo finally installed!

[JShadden]

After 2 weeks of working on it, I have completely replaced the stock sound system. I know a lot of others have already done this or parts at least, but I wanted to give some of my notes in case it could help others. My Juke is an SL AWD so you know what I have to start with.

Headunit - I'm using a Pioneer Avic-X930BT. The brackets on the factory radio come off and attach to aftermarket receivers perfectly. There is a lot of room for wires and other add-ons if you have any.

Factory Camera - I was able to reuse the factory camera by splicing an RCA cable to the factory wires (violet wire 41 in the second harness is + ground to shield). To power the camera, I used a USB cigarette adapter. I just took it apart and soldered power and ground wires to each end of the circuit. Power came from the reverse taillight (green wire with black strip in quarter panel) and grounded to body. On the other end of the adapter which supplies 5v, splice into the factory camera harness. Red is power and black is ground. You'll find the factory camera plug behind the hatch panel. It's the only plug back there with 4 wires that I saw.

Factory USB jack up front - I was able to reuse this as well. There is a 8 pin harness that was coming from the factory radio. Cut back the wire shielding carefully and splice into the red wire for power (#48 on the second harness) and black for ground (#45). I used a USB to cigarette adapter for this as well to get 5v to the USB jack. Do the same thing as above and get power from the factory harness (wire 7 light green for power with ignition, wire 19 brown for constant power). This is only to use the factory USB to charge my phone.

Door Speakers - I used HAT Imagine 6.5" components. I bought adapter plates from SQCustoms online in order to mount them. I think Metra makes some adapter plates, but from what I can tell, they're very thin. SQCustoms makes them out of MDF and they're about 1" think so they match the height of the factory speakers and give you more mounting depth. In the back, you can run new wires through the factory wiring loom easily (it's open on both ends). On the front doors, it's a huge pain! The wire loom is open going into the door, but is a solid plug going into the vehicle. I had to remove the harness from the door jamb completely and take it apart. After doing that, I was able to use a dremel to route out areas of the plug where there weren't any factory wires to feed my new speaker wires through. Since I mounted the tweeters in the pillars up front, I had to do this twice on each side. Seriously...this sucks big time! This probably took the most time out of the whole install.

Pillar Tweeters - I was able to reuse the factory mounting brackets and location. The factory tweeter unscrews from the bracket and my new tweeter screwed right in. Very simple. You can remove the pillars without braking the clips off too. Just pull it out until it catches and then use a pair of needle nose pillars to reach behind the panel and twist the clips 90 degrees. Pull the panel outwards and they'll pop right out and you can reuse them. There are 2 clips...one at the top and one in the middle. I also mounted the aftermarket GPS antenna in the passenger side pillar.

Amp location - I tried mounting the amp (Alpine PDX5) under the drivers seat but there were too many wires to be able to put the sill panel back on, so I moved it to the back under the carpet by the spare tire. Much more room and looks cleaner here since you don't see it at all.

Power wire for amp - There is a boot in the firewall on the drivers side. From the engine compartment, take off the air filter and move it aside so you'll have room to work. Use something (I used a dremel) to make a small hole (smaller than your wire) and push it through. If you make the hold smaller than the wire then it should seal itself when you run it through. I ran the wire to the back down the drivers side. There are clips under the door sill panels that the factory wires run through and there is enough room for a 4 gauge wire as well. I ran speaker wire to the back through here as well with no hissing or engine whine.

RCA's from headunit - Same as power wire but on the passenger side of the car. I used a 6 channel RCA cable and it was about the same size as 4 gauge wire.

Subwoofer - I reused the factory sealed box and put a CDT EF-80 in its place. I stuffed the box with polyfill as well while I had it out. The factory box has a mounting depth of 3.5". The sub I used is 3.5" so I made a riser ring out of MDF so it had room to vent behind it. I just drilled a hold in the side of the box, ran new wire to it and sealed it up. Originally, I tried using a Polk MM840 with a 4" mounting depth but wasn't able to get it to work well. The CDT sounds better than the Polk did with this setup.

Steering wheel controls - I was able to get them working using an Axxess-ASWC. On Axxess's website, they say the Juke isn't compatible but you can get it to work. On the Axxess unit, hook power and ground, and the use the gray/red wire and the gray/blue wire. Hook the gray/red to pin 6 (green) and the gray/blue to pin 16 (red) of the factory harness. You'll also need to ground pin 15 (violet) of the factory harness to the chassis. This is what screwed me up for a long time! After that the Axxess will auto program but not all of the buttons will work. Follow the directions in the manual to program the unit manually and they'll all work. I didn't mess with the bluetooth buttons so I can't say if they'll work or not.

I'm very happy with the results, it sounds fantastic! I did use Dynamat Xtreme on the doors, quarter panels, hatch, and rear floor by the spare time which made a huge difference in road noise and helped the speakers sound better. Please don't ruin your new car by doing what I did if you're new to this!! I'm not professional by any means but I've been installing for years and I'm comfortable doing it. I just wanted to give notes for anyone else wondering what's possible

[ChiefScooter]

Um, can we sticky this information? =)

Very nice write up, thanks for the information! Congrats on your install!

[JShadden]

I got the steering wheel controls working today and updated my post with the info.

[TMD78]

Thanks for adding the steering wheel instructions. I've been waiting for someone to jump in and confirm it works before pulling the trigger. Sounds pretty straight forward.

[MarvinK]

Pretty tempting. The factory nav unit is awful. Buggy and missing features.

[Mickhelpaul]

ya thats great and nice information.

[ARF]

Pretty tempting. The factory nav unit is awful. Buggy and missing features.

After coming from a Jaguar the navigation unit is a dream come true in comparison.

[Infidel]

Wow - nice job!

In regard to your use of dynamat - I used a lot of this stuff when I put a system in my old Nissan 4x4, and it noticeably quieted the cabin (with music off, of course).

The Juke is a noisy little freak - would you say the dynamat quieted the cabin noticeably enough to make it worth it (or some other noise control material) to install in the doors and hatch?

Thanks

[JShadden]

Wow - nice job!

In regard to your use of dynamat - I used a lot of this stuff when I put a system in my old Nissan 4x4, and it noticeably quieted the cabin (with music off, of course).

The Juke is a noisy little freak - would you say the dynamat quieted the cabin noticeably enough to make it worth it (or some other noise control material) to install in the doors and hatch?

Thanks

It does make a noticeable difference. It's much more quite now. The biggest difference came from doing the wheel wells in the quarter panels and the floor of the hatch area.

[ARF]

It does make a noticeable difference. It's much more quite now. The biggest difference came from doing the wheel wells in the quarter panels and the floor of the hatch area.

I can see doing the floor of the hatch area easily..... The wheel wells sounds unbelievably difficult. How did you do that? Pull everything out?